With every step into the water, the shorebreak gets bigger, whilst my confidence shrinks to the size of Mickey Mouse. Somehow, the waves looked much smaller from the car park behind the dunes! Anyone trying to get out into the surf is often abruptly jolted out of their daydreams. Instead of smooth turns and powerful jumps, a grumpy giant blocks your path, crumples your board and spits everything – including you – back onto the shore.
But there are also spots where you’ll find the exact opposite: an easy entry and a shallow area where you can build up speed before heading into the surf zone. Even if things go a bit wrong, you won’t have to go scraping your gear off the rocks straight away; instead, you can give it another go without any worries. We’ve scoured the spot archives and are revealing the eight best wave spots, from near and far, for a gentle introduction to the surf.
A bit of a racket in Heiligenhafen
Within sight of the Fehmarnsund Bridge lies Heiligenhafen – known as ‘Halli’ in surfing circles – one of the best and most popular spots in northern Germany. Apart from the fact that it boasts a large inland lake with shallow areas, a well-equipped surf school and all the necessary facilities, it is above all the wave conditions – suitable for everyone – that make the spot so popular: with wind directions ranging from west-south-west to north-west, Halli covers a wide wind window. You can park directly behind the dune for a fee. West to west-north-westerly winds are ideal; these come from the left over a flat headland. The shore area can be a bit choppy, but the entry point is shallow, mostly sandy and easy to manage even for wave novices. You then have plenty of space to pick up speed before hitting the ramps over the offshore sandbank, which are just as suitable for jumps as they are for loops and even backloops. The Heiligenhafen wave is also ideal for first-time riders, as it breaks very gently and usually fades out gradually. Because the Baltic Sea off Heiligenhafen isn’t particularly deep, even in stormy conditions the wave heights remain moderate, ranging from hip-high to a maximum of chest-high.
Particularly when compared with the alternative spots of Dazendorf and Weissenhaus, Halli appeals to less experienced wave surfers thanks to its much more relaxed conditions. If you head upwind from the bay, you can find waves with a bit more power right in front of the headland and downwind of the small stone jetty – though these break close to the stony shore, and the seabed here is lined with stones and shells. If the wind shifts a little more towards the west-south-west, conditions in the bay can become increasingly gusty and choppy – alternatively, you can launch from ‘Lifeguard Tower No. 1’ and enjoy yourself to windward of the small jetty, where the wind has a clearer run and only small waves break. Incidentally: easterly winds are also good for sailing in Heiligenhafen; these are often even strengthened between Fehmarn and the mainland. However, in such conditions, the waves remain small choppy swells that do not merit the term ‘surf’. The town of Heiligenhafen offers a wide range of accommodation, motorhome pitches and restaurants, so you can easily stay here for longer than just a windy day.
Jammerbucht – Cold Hawaii light
Whenever the words ‘Denmark’ and ‘wave’ appear in the same sentence, it’s usually in reference to Cold Hawaii – the region stretching from Agger to Hanstholm, which is home to some of Northern Europe’s best surf spots. The problem is that if you’re just starting out with wave surfing, strong winds there can quickly push you to your comfort limit. That’s why it’s worth looking north, towards the Jammer Bay area and up as far as Hirtshals. When the wind is blowing from the south-south-west up to a maximum of west-south-west, Løkken in particular is a great alternative to Klitmøller. This charming holiday resort is nestled amongst the dunes; a long jetty divides the spot and also breaks up the current. South-westerly winds are ideal, blowing slightly diagonally onshore from the left. You enter the water downwind of the jetty, where it’s flat and sandy: get up, clip in, and glide off – it’s particularly easy to do in Løkken. On the way out, you’ll come across some lovely kickers that you can use for jumps and loops. Løkken is by no means just a spot for wave beginners; on good days, you can launch yourself high into the Danish sky here. The spot is also excellent for wave riding, although the surf rolls much more gently towards the shore here than it does in Klitmøller.
If the wind dies down, you can always get your longboard or wave SUP out of the car here – or hire one from the local North Shore surf school. They also serve snacks and good coffee here, by the way. The village itself offers nice accommodation, several campsites and, with the Rubjerg Knude Fyr lighthouse, a destination well worth a visit. When the wind shifts more towards the west to north-west, wave-seekers head further on to Kjul Strand, about 35 kilometres further north. The long pier and harbour facilities in Luv are reminiscent of Hanstholm, whilst the accessible beach and relaxed atmosphere are more like Rømø. A west-north-westerly wind blows perfectly sideshore from the left; here too, the entry is shallow and sandy. The waves break less steeply and are therefore much tamer than in Hanstholm; even in stormy conditions, they rarely reach the 2-metre mark. If things do go wrong, there’s plenty of space downwind, so you can come ashore safely. Winds from the east to north-east are also rideable here. Kjul Strand is relatively secluded, but there’s a nice place to stay nearby at Kjul Strand Camping.
Rømø – Denmark’s best spot for jumping
Denmark’s southernmost North Sea island is the reason why hardly anyone goes to Sylt to surf. Although the neighbouring German island is only a few kilometres away, the conditions are fundamentally different. It starts with the journey there: you don’t need to book a ferry or train, but simply drive your car across the causeway and straight onto the beach – free of charge! In summer, the surf zone is slightly to the right (north) of the beach access road; during the winter months, when there’s no swimming zone, surfers tend to head further south. Rømø is ideal when the wind is from the south to south-west, as it then blows side-onshore from the left and is very consistent. Depending on the tide, the wave often remains moderate, reaching heights of between one and two metres. This is when Rømø shows why it’s considered Denmark’s best jump spot. It’s not uncommon to hit several ramps in one go as you head out – smaller ones near the shore, larger ones further out. When there’s a strong south-westerly, things can get properly wild here; the spot then definitely loses its character as a beginner’s wave spot, and on land, drifting sand gives all beachgoers a hard time.
Nevertheless, even in strong winds, this spot offers an unbeatable advantage: there isn’t a single rock to be seen for miles around; the beach slopes gently all along the leeward side, so you can land without any trouble and get back up to speed. As a rule, the beach remains easily accessible by car in southerly to south-westerly winds. Caution is only required when high tide coincides with a wind shift to west-south-west or even due west. In such cases, the beach gets flooded, so you’ll need to move your vehicle to safety in good time. The waves remain surprisingly moderate with north-westerly to north-north-westerly winds, which are also good for driving; in these conditions, the wind blows side-onshore from the right onto the beach. Away from the water, Rømø offers lovely holiday homes, several campsites, as well as restaurants and shopping facilities.
El Medano Harbour – the toothless Godzilla
Cabezo Bay, on the outskirts of El Médano, is one of the most popular surf spots in the Canary Islands. However, the small bay often gets quite crowded when the conditions are right; moreover, when the trade winds are strong, the spot requires a great deal of experience if you don’t want to end up on the leeward side of the rocky reef and ruin your fins on the infamous Godzilla Rock near the entry point. As a novice wave surfer, you’ll often find it much more relaxed to surf at the ‘Harbour Wall’ spot – that is, the harbour wall of the little village of El Médano. To get there, you can either drop in from Cabezo Bay on the windward side; however, for less experienced wave surfers, the safer option is to take the opposite route by walking up from Playa del Médano. Here, you can launch in a relaxed manner even in strong winds and head for the spot in front of the harbour wall. Although the waves break over a stony seabed at the harbour wall, the water is deep enough and considerably safer than at Cabezo. If you get washed away, you’ll be carried further downwind into deeper water, where the waves roll out gently and you can start again at your leisure and give it another go.
Everything has already been said about El Médano as a surfing destination: its key selling points include easy access from many Central European airports, short transfer times, a wide range of conditions – from challenging surf (Cabezo), moderate waves (Harbour Wall) and bump-and-jump conditions (Médano Bay) all within a small area, as well as a wide variety of accommodation options. There are also surf and hire centres, such as the TWS Centre, right on site, meaning you can easily visit even without your own kit. What’s more, the atmosphere of the little town has its own charm, as you’ll meet water sports enthusiasts from many different countries here – both on the water and in the evenings in the town’s numerous pubs and restaurants.
Puerto Lajas – Down the Line for Beginners
The north of Fuerteventura is regarded as a rugged surfing destination with powerful Atlantic waves and jagged lava reefs – which makes Puerto Lajas all the more of a welcome, laid-back exception. The wide, open bay lies directly above Puerto del Rosario, on the east coast – in other words, on the side sheltered from the big Atlantic swells. Here, the energy arrives in a filtered form: less powerful wind swells, virtually no shorebreak and a large, deep channel with no significant current. However, entry here is also over rocks – so neoprene shoes are a good idea. Puerto Lajas is the easiest wave spot to surf in the region and perfect for getting started with ‘proper’ surfing at reef and point breaks. Clean, small waves run in an orderly fashion along the upper reef and, on good days with side to side-offshore winds, allow for several frontside turns on a long, open shoulder. If you do get washed out, you won’t end up on the rocks but usually in the deep channel. You can work your way up to windward at your own pace – the further out you go towards the reef, the steeper and more defined the wave becomes. In terms of wind conditions, it works best from north-north-west to north-east.
Depending on the area and wind direction, the spot offers a variety of play areas: if the wind is blowing slightly more onshore (north-east), the reef at the southern end of the bay can also provide some great ramps for jumping. Apart from days with really big swell, there’s plenty of flat water in the middle of the bay for tacking or taking a breather. In summer, the spot usually needs a north-easterly wind swell; in winter, if the forecast is right, groundswell sets occasionally reach the east coast. The peak season roughly runs from January to August – there are plenty of days during this period when budding surfers can safely enjoy their first real reef experiences here. Nevertheless, it’s still Fuerte: take a quick look first, show respect for the reef and the locals, and only head out when you’re confident – then Puerto Lajas will reward you with beautiful lines and rapid progress. For a bite to eat after your session, the little pizzeria on the village beach comes highly recommended.
Jericoacoara – surf, sleep, repeat
Hardly any other spot in the world offers such excellent wind conditions as Jeri, situated in north-eastern Brazil. Particularly from September right through to December, the wind blows day in, day out at speeds of 20 to over 35 knots. You don’t have to hope for calm days to relax here – you can surf until you drop. What makes Jericoacoara so special, however, is not just the outstanding wind statistics, but also the unique conditions at the spot: the wind swell doesn’t hit the coast unchecked here, but is sorted and redirected by a headland. As a result, Jeri functions like a small point break, with organised and clean lines, usually one to two metres high, running into the bay. On the wave, the wind blows perfectly sideshore to slightly side-offshore, which makes riding the waves downwind particularly easy.
You can make your way slowly into the surf zone here: The entry is shallow and sandy; once you’ve set off on a half-wind course, you’ll first encounter small foam rollers. Further out, gentle surf waves roll over the sandbank – these are ideal for jumping, but you can also use them to hone your wave-riding skills. Being washed ashore is usually harmless; you’ll simply be washed up in shallow water on a sandy seabed – and given the tropical temperatures, you can just relax and enjoy the experience. In any case, further downwind you can also have fun away from the surf and simply cruise around in the swell. Just as relaxed as it is on the water, so too is the atmosphere on land. The little village is firmly in the hands of water sports enthusiasts and has long offered the necessary infrastructure, including numerous accommodation options, restaurants and local surf schools.
Langebaan – South Africa’s multi-spot
Anyone who dreams of waves will, at some point, dream of South Africa too; after all, between November and March, this destination on the Cape is one of the most popular winter spots of all. However, the classic Cape Town spots such as Sunset Beach or Big Bay can be very challenging when the swell is right – gusty winds and powerful waves definitely require experience. Even the Cape alternatives, Platboom and Whitsands, are not an option for surfing novices at such times. Langebaan, situated about 1 hour 20 minutes north of Cape Town, is a much more relaxed and sometimes underrated spot on days with a swell. The large lagoon has long been the go-to destination for surf tests – and for good reason! Thanks to its sheltered location, you usually surf in shallow water here, but when there’s a swell from the south-west to west, lines break into the bay and transform Langebaan into a moderate wave spot. As a rule of thumb: a typical south-westerly swell with a height of 2.8 metres and a period of 13 seconds means mast-high sets in Cape Town, whilst in Langebaan, sets of 1.0 to 1.5 metres roll in.
Surfing takes place in front of the Cape Sports Centre, where you can enter the water via a flat sandy beach. In normal wind conditions – the south-easterly – the wave approaches from leeward, meaning you can practise frontside rides to your heart’s content on the windward side of the surf centre without losing height. About 150 metres further downwind, below the small groyne, the wave gets higher and breaks more powerfully. Here, with a side-offshore wind, turns and even aerials are possible. At both breaks, the wave runs out onto flat sand, meaning that mistakes usually have no consequences. The wind conditions in Langebaan tend to be better than in Cape Town, because the usual south-easter works just as well as a south-westerly – the latter only provides a gentle breeze in Cape Town. Langebaan also has plenty to offer away from the water; with hostels, B&Bs and apartments, as well as a few restaurants and cafés. This makes Langebaan suitable either for a day trip or as a long-term base for anyone who isn’t after crashing surf, but is looking for a multi-spot with flat water and moderate swells.
Geraldton – Outback Fun Park
Hardly any other destination is as popular with wave surfers as Western Australia. Spot names such as Margaret River, Lancelin and Gnaraloo get the pulse racing for ambitious wave surfers – and cause cold sweats for beginners. For as famous as the breaks on the west coast are, the conditions there can get just as fierce. Fortunately, however, the region has a spot up its sleeve in Coronation that’s absolutely suitable for everyone, and where even complete beginners can venture into the surf completely fearlessly and safely. Up front, Coronation offers a lagoon that’s mostly shallow with perfect flat water, through which the odd hip-high, well-formed wave rolls straight in from the front – perfect for your first jumps or learning the front loop. On the other hand, the small chop doesn’t even get in the way of power jibe training. Out on the offshore reef, there’s a wave spot which, depending on the wind and swell, can resemble either a moderate Heiligenhafen-style day or a good Tenerife-style day. The south to south-westerly wind usually picks up around midday, caused by the temperature differences between the sea and the hot inland area. In the early afternoon, the wind in ‘Coro’ usually blows sideshore from the left. When the wind shifts slightly more to a diagonal offshore direction in the evening, the waves often become even cleaner.
Because this spot not only boasts the best wind statistics in Western Australia but is also such a versatile location – with a beautiful sandy beach, a BBQ area, car parks and local facilities rounding off the all-round experience – you’re never alone on the water here. There’s also a campsite right next to the spot, where you can set up camp in a tent or campervan. Alternatively, it might be worth heading to Geraldton, some 30 kilometres to the south. At Sunset Beach, due to a bend in the coastline, the wind comes more from the side; when blowing from the south-east, it’s also slightly offshore. Compared to Coros, the wave runs long and tends to be more of a down-the-line type for riding with the wind from the left, though it’s less suitable for jumping. However, the wave here only really gets going from a medium swell onwards.
Manuel Vogel
Editor surf
