More spot tips for autumn trips:
The big tourist farewell takes place in the north of Croatia at the beginning of September at the latest - as soon as the holiday season is over, peace returns to the Adriatic coast. The Azores High, which usually keeps any low pressure away in midsummer and warms the Adriatic to bathtub temperature with countless hours of sunshine, also disappears with the tourists. The months of October to December are an ideal time for windsurfers to take a trip to the Istrian peninsula - provided you don't let the changeable weather throw you off course and are somewhat mobile on site.
Umag is the best choice for Scirocco
In late autumn, the weather around the Adriatic really gets moving, and it's not uncommon for two weather patterns to alternate: Scirocco from the south-east and the famous Bora from the east to north-east. As soon as a low-pressure system approaches from the west, the warm scirocco from the south-east to south sets in. This also brings very mild temperatures at this time of year, sometimes even reaching the 20 degree mark in November. Scirocco builds up slowly - often over several days - and blows extremely constantly. Above all, however, it brings powerful swell, which then lashes the rocky coasts.
With the onset of the Scirocco, the ideal place to start your trip is in the north-west of the peninsula, in Umag. Here the wind comes in sideshore from the left. You can surf directly north-west of the small harbour, entering via a small pier or the narrow stretch of beach downwind. The waves initially break moderately over the offshore reef and are also easily manageable for wave intermediates. As soon as the Scirocco picks up to over 25 knots, the waves become head-high to maximum logohigh and are ideal for jumping and riding downwind. The quality of the spot is no longer a secret - as little as there is going on ashore at this time of year, there is plenty of company on the water. After the work is done, there are still cafés and restaurants around the harbour in the off-season where you can go to reflect on the day's surfing.
As a rule, the weather deteriorates with increasing duration, and rain ends the Scirocco phase at the end. Time for a change of scenery, because the Scirocco is usually followed by a lush Bora.
With Bora to the top spot Premantura
As the Bora blows from the east to north-east and doesn't really reach the west coast of Istria, it's time to head further south. On the way to the Croatian top spot Premantura, it is worth making a detour to Rovinj. The term "romantic" was practically invented for the beautiful old town, which is perched on a hill overlooking the sea. Where a few weeks earlier there were still streams of tourists pushing their way through the narrow streets, space and tranquillity have now returned. The same applies to the old town of Pula with its amphitheatre, which is also on the way and makes a worthwhile stopover. However, you shouldn't spend too long on the sightseeing programme, as the bora is usually not long in coming after a Scirocco phase.
Bora develops when temperatures in the Croatian hinterland drop due to precipitation or thunderstorms, creating high air pressure over the hinterland. The cold air masses then shoot down from the mountains to the still warm Adriatic Sea - often with storm force. Although the change is accompanied by a noticeable drop in temperature at sea level, the sky clears up again and the sun often shines again just a few hours after the onset of the bora.
Bora around the Premantura hotspot is a great place to nestle. The peninsula south of Pula offers several spots for different skill levels: It is relatively exposed in Stupice, where the wind from the east-north-east is quite free and onshore, and chops can also form for jumping if the wind is strong enough. If the bora goes completely crazy and you want to take it a little easier, it's worth moving to Pomer, where you can "hide" well. Here you can surf against the backdrop of the small town of Medulin, the water is usually smoother and the wind is a little gusty, but also less strong. You can get in near the campsites (e.g. Tašalera) or at the wakeboard lift further west.
Medulin and Kuje are also good bora options
If you find Pomer too moderate and are looking for a bit more chop for jumping, you should head a few kilometres further east off the campsite in Medulin Kažela. Bora comes in here sideshore to slightly offshore from the left and brings small ramps with it. By the way: Medulin-Kažela is also a good spot for scirocco with surf-like conditions.
And if that's not enough, saddle up and head around five kilometres further north-east to the bay of Ližnjan. If the bora is firing from all cylinders, Kuje Bay is the first port of call for anyone who enjoys surfing in the surf. You can park on the northern shore around the Geromella Surf Centre, and the entrance over gravel and a few stones is relatively easy. Depending on the wind strength, you can surf here in swell waves that break on the small reef during storms and definitely have the character of surf.
Regardless of the spot where you surf the bora, you will experience something special at this time of year: every fall from the board is like diving into a warm bathtub. Because the wind comes from the (sometimes snow-covered) mountains, the thermometer can scratch the 10-degree mark even at this time of year. However, the Adriatic is even warmer at 17 to 19 degrees. And at the latest when you are served a slivovitz in one of the cosy taverns, the konobas, in the evening, your heart will be warm again. And it rarely stays cold here anyway, because the next Scirocco phase is not long in coming at this time of year.
Area information Istria
Journey
For water sports fans from southern Germany, Switzerland and Austria, the trip to the north of Croatia is practically a stone's throw away - it's only 550 kilometres from Munich to Istria.
Living & Camping
Many hotels and accommodation are closed in winter, but you can quickly find what you are looking for on the usual online booking platforms - at significantly lower prices than in summer. Most campsites are also closed in winter, but wild camping is tolerated more generously again, as long as you don't spread out too much and don't leave any permanent traces behind.
Weather & neoprene
In Istria in November, you can sometimes still sit in the sun in a T-shirt or throw on a thick jacket. In general: Scirocco brings warmth, but also often clouds and rain. Bora brings blue skies but shady temperatures. A thick 5/3 neo should be in your luggage, a bonnet is recommended for Bora. Shoes are a tip because of the often stony entrances. In November, the Adriatic Sea is about as warm as the Baltic Sea in summer, with 17 to 19 degrees being the norm.
