Andreas Erbe
· 16.10.2024
Denmark and I have a very long and intensive windsurfing relationship. As a teenager, I travelled to the Baltic Sea island of Falster every year with my parents, and later with my surf buddies to Rømø, Blåvand and many other wave spots on the west coast. And even when I was allowed to travel to countless exotic spots as an editor at surf magazine in the many years that followed, I was drawn to the neighbouring kingdom again and again in my private life. The vastness, the variety of spots, the relaxed atmosphere and the constantly changing weather were just some of the reasons why my family and I would rather travel 13 hours north from Munich than four hours south to Lake Garda. Some of my colleagues in southern Germany found this behaviour hard to understand. Since we have been living in the north, the visits to the Danish coast have only become more frequent.
And one region came to the fore as a kind of base station - RingkØbing Fjord on the west coast of Jutland. The narrow strip of land called Holmsland Klit, which separates the wild North Sea from the shallow RingkØbing Fjord between Nymindegab in the south and SØndervig in the north, is particularly fascinating. The extensive dunes, from which you have a clear view of both the roaring sea and the 300 square kilometre fjord, exude tranquillity from the very first moment. The term fjord is rather inappropriate, at least when you think of the narrow Norwegian fjords cut deep into the rock. RingkØbing Fjord is more of a brackish water lake, which is supplied with salt water through its opening in Hvide Sande. And unlike Norwegian fjords, it is only a few metres deep at its deepest points.
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Peace and quiet, nature and all, but first and foremost it's about windsurfing around the fjord. And that's where beginners, intermediates and freeriders get their money's worth. The only wave spot on the south pier in Hvide Sande needs very northerly wind directions to provide really fun conditions for windsurfers. In all westerly or south-westerly wind directions, dedicated wave surfers will continue straight on to KlitmØller or Hanstholm anyway - or stay on RØmØ (south and south-westerly winds). This is why 90 per cent of all windsurfers focus on the fjord, which on the one hand gets the full force of the westerly winds, but on the other hand offers a lot of safety and comfort with its huge shallow areas. Even at the two spots in Hvide Sande, where the westerly winds blow more or less offshore, beginners and intermediates can safely take to the water. The spot in Bork Havn, which lies like a well-ventilated bathtub at the southern end of the fjord, offers even more safety. You will find very well-equipped surf schools and hire centres at all three spots. The fjord is a perfect launch pad into a windsurfing career, especially for children, also because the centres are equipped with plenty of children's rigs.
The Skaven spot in the south-east is very popular with advanced surfers, where the westerly wind blows completely free and arrives with a small choppy wave. However, there is no surf centre here. The spot in Ringkøbing at the southern end of the town is also exciting, where the surf club is based and also offers a lot of infrastructure for visitors, including showers and changing rooms. The westerly wind comes fully onshore, but the water was completely smooth during our visit in June, even in winds of over 20 knots. This was due to the seaweed meadows that reach just below the surface of the water. Nothing works without a weed fin. The Kloster spot in the north of the fjord has almost become a pure kitesurfing spot, but also offers very shallow and smooth water.
For this guide, we have scrutinised eight spots where windsurfing is officially permitted. You should refrain from "wild surfing" at other access points to the fjord out of respect for nature. In some places it is also explicitly prohibited. However, there are access points away from the windsurfing spots where you can put your SUP board in the water and go on beautiful tours in calm conditions.
Ben Proffitt is also a big Hvide Sande fan. In this video on Windsurfing.TV, he takes you to Hvide Sande North, South and to the wave spot at the pier. "A perfect place for a family holiday", says even a pro like Ben.
56.0203, 8.1291
The spot at the Westwind Centre (westwind.dk) on the northern outskirts of Hvide Sande has everything you could wish for in a perfect beginner and freeride spot. The huge shallow area extends up to 800 metres into the fjord. At the same time, the ground is mostly sandy with few stones. It is only a few metres from the large, chargeable car park to the comfortable rigging area. However, this is shared with the kiters. There is more than enough space on the water, the wind is still a little gusty from the west under land, but the further out or north you surf, the more constant it becomes. In strong winds, a short, somewhat unpleasant choppy wave zone builds up further out. On land, the infrastructure is almost perfect. There are showers (10 crowns if you want it warm), toilets and changing rooms. The surf school is very well equipped and there is Duotone equipment for hire as well as a well-stocked shop with coffee and snacks. If you stay longer, you can hire a box for boards and rigs for 65 crowns a day.
55.9854, 8.1385
The mirror image of the Hvide Sande Nord spot at the southern end of Hvide Sande. Whilst the north spot is better in westerly winds with a northerly impact, the south-westerly wind blows better here. However, the spot conditions are very similar, the water is very shallow for a long time and in strong winds there are zones with very short, choppy waves. You have to be careful near the shore as there are some very shallow spots - risk of skidding! The infrastructure on land is perfect. Plenty of paid parking, comfortable rigging and a wide beach. The Westwind Centre offers courses, a shop, rental, showers and changing rooms. You can also hire equipment sheds and replenish your calories at the snack bar. Hvide Sande Camping is located about 200 metres from the spot on the opposite side of the road.
55.9965, 8.1190
The spot on the south breakwater of Hvide Sande only comes to life for windsurfers in strong north to north-westerly winds. Then the breakwater organises the waves and clears up the North Sea chaos. However, the spot is only recommended for experienced wave surfers. The spot is shared with kiters and surfers. You can park behind the dune at the Westwind surf school. It is also the only recommended spot on the North Sea side of Holmsland Klit. Otherwise, the strong current can be life-threatening.
55.8679, 8.1829
The campsite (bjerregaardcamping.dk) at the south-western end of the fjord has exclusive access to the surf spot. Only those who live on the site or pay a daily fee of 100 kroner have access to this absolutely flat water spot. The spot is best accessed by a pure westerly wind and you can surf back and forth in a narrow strip between Holmsland Klit and the Tipperne nature reserve. The area restrictions must be observed here. Surfing at the spot is only permitted from Whitsun to 31 August.
55.8469, 8.2767
One of the most popular spots on the fjord - and rightly so. Like a gigantic, shallow bathtub, the area fulfils all requirements from complete beginners to dedicated freeriders and speedheaters. Unlike in Hvide Sande, the westerly wind in Bork Havn is less gusty. The wind comes onshore, but the water in the sheltered bay remains almost wrinkle-free and the bottom is mostly sandy. All this gives surfing students a lot of confidence. Advanced surfers enjoy the smooth water, even in strong winds. You can park for free directly at the spot and set up on the green meadow. There are also a number of paid campervan pitches directly at the spot and holiday homes with a view of the spot. The Westwind surf school also has a branch here with Duotone equipment hire and a shop. In Bork Havn there are several pubs, restaurants and shops as well as the famous Viking village (ringkobingfjordmuseer.dk/en/museer/bork-vikingehavn/)
55.8884, 8.3529
Skaven is also a very popular spot due to its free wind from the west. However, there is no surfing infrastructure here. However, there is a car park directly at the spot - which fills up quickly on good days in summer. Then you can move to the Skaven harbour car park and have to carry your equipment a maximum of 200 metres. As mentioned, everything arrives in Skaven from the west almost unchecked and creates a small choppy wave in strong winds. Shoes are a must in Skaven, as the ground is stony and covered with sharp shells, especially at the entrance. Further out, the sandy bottom is more typical. From the campsite (skaven.dk) on the outskirts of the village, you can also go into the water on a small beach. This spot is also shared with numerous kiters.
56.0736, 8.2706
On the southern outskirts of Ringkøbing, the Ringkøbing Surf Club (surfklub.dk) with its own clubhouse, changing rooms and showers (also open to non-members). There is ample free parking and the sandy beach and spot can be reached via a wide staircase (so that you can carry your rig properly). A westerly wind blows diagonally onshore here and the water remains shallow for kilometres. During our visit at the beginning of June, the heavy seaweed growth made for perfectly smooth water, but a weed fin was an absolute must.
56.1066, 8.1709
For this spot in the very north of the fjord, the term "former windsurfing spot" must be used. The standing area has been almost completely taken over by kiters in recent years, who really appreciate the flat water, good launching opportunities and free wind - just like the windsurfers in the pre-kite era. Windsurfing is not prohibited, but you have to come to terms with the many kiters. Be that as it may, the fjord offers more than enough windsurfing spots.
The quickest way to get here is via the A7/E45 motorway to Kolding, then via the E20 towards Esbjerg to exit 73 Korskro. From there via Varde and Nørre Nebel to Nymindegab. There you will come across what is probably the most filmed hilltop in Denmark, which offers a view of the dune and fjord landscape of Holmsland Klit. If you are travelling to the Bork Havn and Skaven spots, turn right shortly before Nymindegab. Alternatively, you can drive to the northern part of the fjord via Tarm or Herning to Ringkøbing. But then you miss out on the much more beautiful route along the fjord. There are no tolls, but you should stick to the speed limits (80 km/h country road, 110/130 km/h motorway) to save money.
Holiday homes and campsites are the two most common accommodation options. There are numerous holiday home agencies. The largest regional agency with offices in Bjerregaard, Hvide Sande and Søndervig is Esmark (esmark.com). In addition to first-class accommodation, Esmark offers exceptionally good service and numerous discounts and benefits at the Westwind surf centres (e.g. 10 percent off surf lessons or SUP board for one hour free of charge). Esmark is also a sponsor of the major water sports festival Waterz in September.
Around the fjord there are a large number of smaller and larger campsites and even more motorhome pitches. But there are very few sites that are located directly on a windsurfing spot. Hvide Sande Camping (hvidesandecamping.dk) is opposite the Westwind Hvide Sande South centre. However, you have to cross the main road to get to the water (equipment can be stored at the centre). The site also has over 30 simple cabins for hire. You have direct and exclusive access to the spot from Bjerregaard Camping (bjerregaardcamping.dk).
Those not staying at the campsite pay 100 crowns for a day guest ticket. Windsurfing is only permitted from Whitsun to 31 August. Also close to the spot is Bork Havn Camping (borkhavncamping.dk) In addition to the classic area, the campsite also has some camper pitches directly at the surf spot. Also in Skaven (skaven.dk) there is a campsite close to the water, where you can also start directly.
There are numerous other campsites, some of which are beautifully situated in the middle of the dunes, but you can't windsurf directly from them. But most of them are only a few minutes' drive from the nearest spot. You can also find an overview of all campsites and pitches in the region on visitvesterhavet.com
Westwind is the apt name for the chain of windsurfing centres on Ringkøbing Fjord. There are fully equipped Westwind windsurfing centres at the spots Bork Havn, Hvide Sande South and Hvide Sande North. All centres offer beginner and advanced courses in windsurfing, kitesurfing, wingsurfing and SUP. All centres also have a shop and good rental equipment (Duotone). The infrastructure with showers, changing rooms, storage facilities and some beach saunas leave nothing to be desired. The café and snack bar also serve cold drinks and refreshments after a good day's surfing. In Hvide Sande on the south pier, Westwind also has a surf school with a surf café and a café and shop in Hvide Sande itself (mainly surfing equipment). Info: westwind.dk
The Ringkøbing Surf Club is also located at the spot in Ringkøbing, although it only offers courses for members. Info: surfklub.dk
Typical North Sea - this is the best way to describe the weather around the fjord, with westerly winds prevailing all year round. Especially in spring and autumn, the fjord enjoys almost unchecked North Sea winds. But even in summer you can expect almost 50 per cent gliding winds. The average temperature in summer is around 18 degrees, in spring and autumn between 9 and 12 degrees. In recent years, however, there have also been periods in the summer when temperatures have broken the 30 degree mark. The water in the fjord warms up quite quickly due to the shallow depth, so a long-sleeved wetsuit (4-6 mm) is a must in spring and autumn and a short-sleeved wetsuit (3 mm) in summer. Rainproof clothing is also a must. You can expect showers at any time - even if the rain radar has not yet recognised them.
There are many activities around the fjord besides windsurfing. The wakeboard facility at the Hvide Sande Nord centre offers plenty of action when it's calm. The somewhat controversial Lalandia water park in Søndervig, which is very large, attracts visitors with its many water slides at exorbitant prices. The Natural Power Museum in Ringkøbing teaches young and old about the power of nature in a fun way. Info: ringkobingfjordmuseer.dk/museer/naturkraft
Bork is home to the famous Bork Vikingehavn, where you can experience the life of the wild lads from long ago. Info: ringkobingfjordmuseer.dk/en/museer/bork-vikingehavn
The town of Ringkøbing with its old alleyways is a great place to shop, eat ice cream or enjoy fish at the small harbour. There are also numerous shopping opportunities and fresh fish in Hvide Sande. Tours on the Vestkystruten cycle path are also a nice alternative. Under visitvesterhavet.com you will find lots of information about excursions and attractions on the west coast.
A weed fin and surf shoes should always be in your luggage. During our visit at the beginning of June, the spot in Ringkøbing was no longer accessible without a weed fin.
Even though the official currency is the Danish krone, you can also pay with euros almost everywhere - and of course with all cards, even small amounts. Dune protection is also becoming increasingly important at Holmsland Klit. So only use the signposted crossings through the dunes. And: Speed limits in Denmark are not a non-binding recommendation!