When the Surf editorial team asked me in spring 2023 if I could produce a Karpathos spot guide, it sounded like an interesting prospect to me. I’d already worked on several Greek islands in the past, and when I sold my surf centre in Crete in 2000, I was offered the chance to take over the management of a centre on Karpathos for the 2001 season. I didn’t know the island at the time, but there were plenty of stories about Karpathos: “There’s always wind there, day and night.” I, too, wanted to get to the bottom of the myth for a while and accepted the offer, because after that our young daughter was due to start school and my life was set to continue in a very down-to-earth way in Germany – at least, that was the plan. So, in February 2001, my wife, our toddler and I set off for Karpathos.
As early as May, before the actual ‘windy season’ had even begun, the Meltemi was blowing strongly and without let-up. It was impossible to imagine what the wind would be like during the summer months. Outdoors and with no shelter from the wind, our little daughter couldn’t do any crafts or painting because the wind blew everything away. At night, the windows and shutters rattled – I found that time there quite exhausting.
The thermal winds on Karpathos significantly strengthen the wind, whilst new buildings make it gusty
So, 22 years later, in July 2023, we travelled by ferry from Sitia in Crete to Karpathos. I’d already checked the wind forecasts for Karpathos whilst still in Crete – and, in my view, they didn’t look good: Unpredictable meltemi and only a light north-westerly wind were forecast. However, I was in touch with Mikey from the Meltemi Windsurf Station in Devil’s Bay, who reassured me and pointed out the prevailing thermals, which bring winds of ten to 25 knots every day.
As soon as we arrived at Pigadia harbour, we were surprised by the construction boom on the island and the crowds of tourists – back in 2001, it had been a completely different picture. On the way to Afiartis, from the top of the hill, you get a fantastic view of the spots on the leeward side, as well as the many newly built houses and flats on the slopes leading down to the sea. What’s an advantage for tourists has become a disadvantage for the quality of the wind – it’s now become more gusty near the shore.
Karpathos has gone from being a strong-wind destination to a family-friendly destination
On the other hand, there are now plenty of lovely places to stay in Afiartis to suit every taste, all within easy reach of the surf spots. Other things still feel familiar to us, even after more than 20 years: the barren slopes of Kali Limni, which rises to over 1,200 metres. The hustle and bustle in the shops, tavernas and restaurants of the island’s capital, Pigadia. Or the ancient rituals and traditions in the village of Olympos, where bread is still baked in a stone oven today and the locals go about their business in traditional dress.
And out on the water? During our week-long stay, despite the mediocre forecast, we were out on the water every day with sails ranging from 4.0 to 5.2 m². What was striking, however, was that the extreme stormy days, when the Meltemi really goes berserk, seem to have become less frequent over the years. Numerous conversations with surf instructors, centre managers and regulars have also confirmed this impression. In my view, this is not a disadvantage, but actually a good thing for Karpathos as a surfing spot, as the island is thus increasingly developing into a mixed-use destination where families are well catered for and less experienced windsurfers can get out on the water almost every day.
- You might also find this interesting: Work & Travel summer on Karpathos – work, surf, sleep, repeat
The best windsurfing spots on Karpathos
1. Devil’s Bay
35.4374, 27.1556
Devil’s Bay usually has the strongest winds on Karpathos – which isn’t necessarily always an advantage! The Meltemi Windsurf Station is located there, offering the latest windsurfing and wingfoil equipment. The station also has a bar with a terrace, serving breakfast, snacks, burgers and drinks – and hosting themed evenings from time to time. A rescue service is also available here.
A typical north-westerly Meltemi blows diagonally offshore from the left and, further inland, can be quite gusty as it sweeps into the bay, which is around 900 metres long and roughly 500 metres wide. If the Meltemi takes a break and the thermals kick in, they tend to arrive in Devil’s Bay from a west-north-westerly direction. There is a beach with coarse sand and pebbles for launching. Underwater, close to the shore, there are a few flat rock slabs that you should keep an eye on – but these areas are marked.
Depending on the wind strength, the water near the shore is calm to slightly choppy; conditions here are often good for practising manoeuvres and tricks. When the Meltemi is blowing hard, a steep chop half a metre to a metre high builds up further out. However, the wind is also noticeably more consistent further out. If you head further downwind towards Gun Bay, you’ll find a lovely shallow-water area behind a headland.
2. Gun Bay
35.4300, 27.1557
The wind is often a bit lighter in Gun Bay. There’s good facilities here too, as the ION Surf Club has set up shop here with up-to-date and well-maintained equipment. MTB tours and wingfoil courses are also on offer here, and there’s a bar and a restaurant with a terrace overlooking Gun Bay and the windsurfing action.
The Meltemi, blowing from the north-west, blows diagonally offshore from the left in Gun Bay and is milder than in Devil’s Bay. The entry is easy and pebbly; there are also a few rocks near the shore here, but these are marked. It’s also slightly gusty over the first 200 metres here, but the water is smooth and ideal for tricks or manoeuvres. Further out, the wind stabilises noticeably; however, in strong winds, a short, steep chop develops, reaching heights of up to one metre. The headland to leeward provides at least a visual sense of security.
3. Chicken Bay
35.4245, 27.1509
Even though the term ‘Chicken Bay’ might sound a bit derogatory, there’s no need to feel embarrassed about getting out on the water here. On the contrary: The very sheltered bay has a shallow, sandy area extending just under 100 metres out to sea, where the water is knee- to hip-deep. This makes the bay ideal for beginners, those moving up a level, and anyone who isn’t yet completely confident at water starts and tacking in strong winds. The water surface in Chicken Bay usually remains very calm; further downwind, a headland partially encloses the bay, which gives a feeling of safety and makes drifting away virtually impossible. A rescue service is, of course, also available for guests at the centres. So is Chicken Bay always easy? Not quite, because in July and August there can be days here with winds exceeding 30 knots.
The surf centres at Chicken Bay are well-stocked and have equipment to suit all surfing conditions. The lessons are a dream, given the shallow waters, the fine white sand beneath your feet and the crystal-clear sea. The surf centres are laid out in such a way that even landlubbers can comfortably spend time in the sheltered areas, watching the action at Chicken Bay – and there are also bars, restaurants and showers on site.
Experienced windsurfers will find great conditions outside the shallow area; depending on the wind strength, the water can range from flat to slightly choppy.
4. Secret Spot
35.4291, 27.1216
Away from the main spots, there’s another, somewhat hidden spot. This is located at Nikoliou O Kolpos Beach, halfway between Afiartis and the Luvspot, directly behind the airport’s runway. A dirt track leads down to the rocky coast. You can access the spot on the right-hand side of the bay via a few small rocks, or on the left-hand side via a rocky staircase, leading into a sheltered cove with pebbles and a rocky outcrop just offshore. Shoes aren’t strictly necessary here – but it’s certainly no bad idea!
There’s absolutely no infrastructure on the beach. The wind blows offshore and is very gusty, but it creates perfect flat water for riding fast and freestyling, as the gusts are long and powerful. The spot is well worth a detour, especially when the wind is stronger. What you should be aware of, however, is that, unlike the main spots, there is no rescue service here. If your kit breaks, you’ll drift straight towards Egypt.
5. Luv Spot
35.4300, 27.1106
On the south-western headland, about three kilometres from Afiartis, lies the so-called ‘Luv Spot’ with Agrilaopotamos Beach. It is a small cove with a beach of the finest sand and turquoise water; the shallow end extends for about ten to 15 metres.
With thermal winds from the WNW, the wind tends to be side-onshore from the right, whilst with the Meltemi from the north-west, it’s more of a side-shore wind. At 12 to 25 knots, the water is still quite flat, with at most a little chop, and the first 150 metres are still in the wind shadow and are therefore more gusty. Small waves form from time to time off the reef, but these rarely take on the character of surf. When the Meltemi blows strongly for a few days, swell waves or very moderate surf waves up to 1.5 metres high can develop, which can be used for jumps and freestyle tricks. The reef is full of sea urchins and is sharp, but it has two passages that are easy to spot and safe to navigate through.
Outside the reef, there are long swell waves that are perfect for riding and jumping. The wind is less gusty than on the leeward side and is usually three to eight knots weaker. So if the wind on the leeward side of the island – in Devil’s Bay and elsewhere – gets too strong to ride, the windward spot is a good place to head for. At the spot, you’ll find the Naish Greatdayz water sports centre, which specialises in kite and wing surfing but also stocks the latest windsurfing gear from Naish, as well as a tavern and a few apartments. Parking is also available by the roadside. As kitesurfing is prohibited on the leeward side of the island, this is the hotspot for the kitesurfing scene.
Area Information: Karpathos
Getting here
There are two ways to get to Karpathos: either by plane – during the summer months, there are many charter flights from Central European airports directly to Karpathos. The advantage is that you can get there in just under three hours, and the transfer to the windsurfing spots around Afiartis takes only ten minutes.
You can also travel there by campervan. The ferries from Ancona or Venice to Patras are ideal, for example with Anek or Minoan Lines. To get to Karpathos, you take the ferry from Piraeus; services are available from Bluestar Ferries, on faehren.de and from Seajets.
Accommodation & Camping
There are plenty of accommodation options around Afiartis available via the well-known online booking platforms. If you’re looking for all-inclusive packages, you should definitely check out the offers from surf tour operators:
There is no campsite on Karpathos. Wild camping is officially prohibited, as it is throughout Greece, but is still tolerated to some extent on Karpathos. Provided you stick to a few rules that should go without saying: don’t make yourself at home, don’t leave any rubbish behind, and support the local tavernas by popping in for a meal rather than just using the loo.
Wind & Weather
The ideal time to visit Karpathos is during the summer months, with the best wind conditions occurring between May and September. During this period, a heat low forms to the east over Asia Minor and the Near and Middle East, which constantly draws in air – giving rise to the famous Meltemi. It brings Greece a brilliant blue sky and clear air. The Meltemi reaches its peak in July and August, when the probability of wind on Karpathos is around 90 per cent. On Karpathos, the wind is further intensified by the island’s north-to-south orientation and the high mountains in the north, which slope down towards the south, thereby amplifying the north-westerly wind through a wind tunnel effect. In high summer, the Meltemi normally blows day and night at speeds of 18–35 knots, but days of full-blown gales with winds of 40 knots or more can also occur – so small sails should still be packed. In the off-season up to June and from September onwards, the Meltemi is often more moderate. Should the Meltemi fail to materialise at all, there is a reliable thermal wind in the south of Karpathos blowing from the west to west-north-west at 12–20 knots; however, this is more gusty and does not usually blow all day.
The climate on Karpathos is Mediterranean, with hot, sunny and windy summers in which it does not rain. Due to the long summer drought and the wind, the landscape is parched at that time of year.
The air temperature in summer ranges from 25 to 35 degrees. The sea is already 20 degrees in the off-season, and in the height of summer the water temperature rises to as much as 27 degrees. At that time of year, you can surf here in shorts or a shorty.
Surf stations
Alternative programme
Menetes is one of the most popular destinations on Karpathos. The village itself has fewer than 500 inhabitants. This picturesque spot is easily accessible and ideal for exploring on foot. Traditional music and food attract large numbers of tourists.
Pyles is situated in the south-west of Karpathos and has a population of around 400. The village attracts numerous tourists from all over the world with its Church of the Holy Cross, which houses various icons, and its agricultural museum. Many keen walkers come here to explore the Flaskia Gorge leading to the Lastos Plain.
There are also plenty of lovely beaches to explore. We recommend the boat trip to the neighbouring island of Saria from Diafani. As well as several inviting stops for a swim, the natural landscape is stunning and there are quite a few historical relics to see. Anyone keen on mountain bike tours should enquire at the ION Club in Gun Bay.
Good to know
The heat in the height of summer can be intense, especially when the Meltemi takes a break. Adequate sun protection is essential both on land and on the water.