Because it is well known that crowds of tourists have not always had a positive effect on the development of Greek islands, Greece connoisseurs swear by the unspoilt charm of the Cyclades island of Naxos. We'll tell you why this is likely to remain the case in the future in our spot guide.
The containers loaded with earth and stone still hang from the rusty cables of the Moutsouna cable car - as silent witnesses to a bygone era. Fifty years ago, a chapter ended here that had significantly shaped the history of Naxos long before the first tourists arrived: Emery. Since the 18th century, the mountainous hinterland had been cut through like a Swiss cheese to produce "Naxos emery", which was in demand worldwide as an abrasive, and its sale brought modest prosperity to the village communities before cheaper competition and the synthetic production of abrasive material brought the nine-kilometre-long cable car to a standstill. Somehow, it would fuel a resentment often drummed up during the Greek crisis to harp on about the fact that almost nothing has been done here for 50 years and that the construction of a museum facility subsidised with EU funds came to a half-finished standstill - because the money ran out.
The great thing is that Naxos doesn't need such attractions. The largest of all the Cyclades islands is considered a pearl among Greece connoisseurs, which does not need to impress with oversized clubs, hotel castles or other attractions - because it is attraction enough in itself. Authenticity and scenic beauty have been largely preserved here even in times of mass tourism, partly because Naxos still does not have an international airport. What some see as a competitive disadvantage compared to Crete, Rhodes or Karpathos, preserves the soul of the island: secluded bays, fertile olive groves and a sparsely populated, mountainous and, by Greek standards, surprisingly green hinterland, over which the Zas - at 1001 metres the highest Cycladic mountain - towers.
So if you're travelling by plane via Athens or by ferry, you'll be in the mood for peace and quiet, Greek delicacies such as olives or the "Kitra" liqueur made from the leaves of the cedrat tree - and the Meltemi summer wind, which, according to statistics, ventilates Naxos up to 240 days a year. On the flatter west coast in particular, there are great windsurfing conditions for all levels due to the strait to the neighbouring island of Paros, which provides a local boost. South of Chora, as the main town of an island or region is called in Greece, both beginners and wave fans will find their luck. In Agios Georgios, children can splash around in the shallow water, women can hone their water starts in the sheltered lagoon and men can practise their front loops on the offshore reef - or women can loop and men can splash around. And even if here and at the other hot spots such as Mikri Vigla or Plaka Beach, at least in high summer, there is less of a sense of peace and solitude, a few kilometres further south you will still find what makes Naxos so unique - unspoilt nature and yes, even the rusty remains of a bygone era.
The best windsurfing spots on Naxos
1st Amiti
Just under ten kilometres from the main town of Naxos lies Amiti, a spot that is more suited to wave lovers. Meltemi blows onshore here and piles up lush surf on the long sandy beach, which quickly breaks the two-metre mark. The breakers can become powerful in strong winds and allow for a few onshore wave rides; it is best to start at the right end of the bay. However, rubbish and flotsam also collects here time and again and the rocks at the left end of the bay do little to relax you. All in all, Amiti is not a spot for wave novices. Agios Georgios is the much better alternative with the corresponding infrastructure and, on top of that, much better spot conditions.
2. Agios Georgis/St. George Beach
The beautiful beach not far south of the village of Naxos basically combines everything a windsurfer's heart desires: a partly shallow lagoon is the perfect practice slope for all intermediates and flat water fans, and even in storms the water here remains smooth, apart from a few chops. The reason for this is the reef in front of it, which not only shields the lagoon behind it, but also causes waves to break on strong days. With sideonshore winds from the right, there are fine ramps of up to two metres. The passage through the reef is marked. There are also plenty of bathers on the shore, and the two Flisvos centres and the Naxos Surf Club offer courses and the latest equipment for hire. You will also find everything else you need: Accommodation in all price categories as well as nice bars, tavernas and restaurants can be found in the immediate vicinity of the spot.
3. Plaka Beach
About five kilometres to the south is the more NW-SE oriented Plaka beach section. A typical northerly wind blows a little offshore here for the first 100 to 150 metres and is therefore slightly gusty, but further out the wind stabilises and offers a nice flat water slope with bigger chop for jumping the further out you go. If you have travelled by camper van and don't want to go to the main spot of Agios Georgios every day, you can also rent a spot at one of the two campsites here. Plaka Watersports has also established a surf centre where you can hire equipment and take lessons.
4th Mikri Vigla
The second hot spot on the island after Agios Georgios: it's worth heading here, especially if there's not quite enough wind for gliding further north, as the wind is always a few knots stronger in Mikri Vigla thanks to local reinforcements. The spot is also very popular with kiters and swimmers, but it can get crowded in the high season, so a little caution is advised. There is also a little chop on the water, the wind blows sideshore to sideonshore from the right. You only need to be careful of the rocky outcrops to leeward. There are parking facilities, a sandy beach, surf centre and a few tavernas and shops on site - making it an absolutely family-friendly spot!
5th Glyfada/Kastraki
Around one kilometre south of the small village of Kastraki, the shoreline curves around, which is why typical Meltemi winds from the north arrive here almost sideshore. There are always a few kiters on the wide sandy beach, but there is plenty of space on the water for freeriding. There is only a little chop here too. Further upwind, the water on the shore becomes smoother, but the wind is also a little gusty. There are a few small tavernas in nearby Kastraki for a beer after work or a snack at lunchtime.
6. alyko
The area around Alyko, which owes its name to salt mining ("Alyki" means "salt pan"), is extremely popular with bathers thanks to its sandstone formations and beautiful beaches. You have to park further away on the road and there is no other infrastructure for surfers on the narrow sandy beach. Meltemi blows from the right and creates small ramps for jumping further out. The exposed location means that there are few options if the material breaks. On the south side of the headland, you can chill out on the beach even in stormy weather.
7th Pyrgaki
The further south you go on Naxos, the quieter it is - at least on land. The three beautiful sandy bays of Pyrgaki tend to face south-west, which means that the Meltemi wind blows almost offshore here. The best place to start is at the southernmost of the three beach sections, which are separated by small rocky outcrops. The wind on the shore is always a little gusty, but the water remains wonderfully smooth even in strong winds - ideal for heating up and practising manoeuvres. The only drawback: if you have a problem or break your equipment, you will quickly drift off towards Paros Ios - and the neighbouring island is almost 25 kilometres away. It is therefore better not to go out on the water alone here.
8th Agiassos
The spot 25 kilometres south of Naxos town only really comes to life in the winter months - when low-pressure systems move across the Aegean and a strong south to south-westerly wind blows. This then comes sideshore to slightly sideonshore from the left into the long bay and has 20-30 kilometres of run-up to build up moderate waves that break on a fairly flat sandy beach (usually 1-1.5 metres). The spot allows jumps and wave rides without it being particularly dangerous - so even wave climbers are in the right place here. The approach is either via a gravel road from Pyrgaki (3 km) or the tarmac road from Sangri. There are also a few small tavernas on the beach with good local cuisine
9. azalas
The one-hour drive from Naxos town to the east coast is particularly worthwhile when the Meltemi arrives on Naxos with a slight north-easterly breeze - at many spots on the west coast, the wind is then offshore and gusty. Shortly before the village of Moutsouna, turn left towards Azalas. You surf at the windward end of the rocky bay, with a view of the rock formations to leeward. The stones and rocks in the shore area make it difficult to get on the water, where you can expect a fairly constant wind and small wind waves that allow for the odd jump. However, normal Meltemi from north to north-west is covered here, so it is better to stay on the west coast.
Area information Naxos
Journey
You can travel to Naxos by plane or by car. Flights are available from many airports via Athens. You can curse the often longer stopover in Athens or use it for a sightseeing tour. Local tip: You can book some of the flights with Aegean Air (www.en.aegeanair.com) as "connected flights", in which case the connection times are shorter. Due to the small aircraft (approx. 35 seats), you have to book very early, and unfortunately you cannot take surfing equipment with you and should therefore hire it locally. An alternative is to book flights to Mykonos and Santorini and then take the ferry from there to Naxos. Ferry times Mykonos - Naxos: 35-50 minutes, Santorini - Naxos: 1.5-2 hours.
If you are travelling by camper, it is best to book a ferry from Italy (e.g. Ancona, Trieste, Venice) to Patras. From Patras, you make the 220 kilometre journey (approx. 3 hours) to Piraeus, from where the domestic Greek ferries depart. The crossing to Naxos takes between 3.5 and five hours, depending on the ferry line.
Wind, weather & neoprene recommendation
Like the entire Aegean, Naxos is ventilated by the Meltemi summer wind. This arises due to the difference in air pressure between the Azores High, which extends in summer, and a heat low that forms over the Arabian Peninsula and south-west Asia. The dry wind blows from a northerly direction and provides the west coast of Naxos with a gliding wind of over twelve knots on around 60 per cent of days in midsummer. The jet effect with the neighbouring island of Paros also strengthens the Meltemi locally. Very windy days with over 30 knots are also not uncommon, so a small sail should always be in your luggage. A trip to Naxos can also be worthwhile in the early and late season, but the windiest time is definitely between June and October. The water temperatures crack the 25-degree mark in midsummer, while the Meltemi ensures that the air temperatures remain bearable. If it fails to materialise, it quickly becomes blisteringly hot. In summer, a shorty or lycra shirt is sufficient on the board, in spring and autumn a short-sleeved neo with 4mm is sufficient. Shoes are an advantage at some spots. The statistics also show many windy days in winter, but these are at the expense of frequently changing wind directions, which is why the winter months are less of a tip.
Living & Camping
Naxos has the charm that you can stay in the main town ("Chora") right next to the spot. The Hotel Naxos Beach, the Olga Apartments and the new Flisvos Studios are located directly behind the Flisvos surf centre. All these offers can also be booked through the surf tour operator Sun & Fun (www.sunandfun.com).
Naxos is an insider tip among campers: although wild camping is prohibited here, as everywhere in Greece, there are a few campsites close to spots - a rarity on Greek islands. You can camp here with a campervan or just a tent under shady trees. These are all located south of Naxos town:
- Agios Georgios/St.George Beach: Naxos Camping
- Plaka Beach: Camping Plaka & Camping Maragas
Surf centre
Those arriving by plane can safely avoid the stress of transport - there are professional and well-equipped surf centres on site:
- Flisvos Sports Club
- Naxos Surf Club
- Laguna Beach Park
- Plaka Watersports
- Thala Sea
Alternative programme
When the Meltemi takes a break, the charming landscape invites you to go on a SUP, cat or MTB tour. A sunrise hike up Mount Zas, the highest mountain in the Cyclades at 1001 metres, is also worthwhile.
Shady sides
At spots with onshore winds, the joy is unfortunately often spoilt by plastic waste in the water. Everyone can make a meaningful contribution by avoiding the large quantities of bags distributed in the supermarket.
