Leaver dea as slaef – ‘Better dead than a slave’ – is a Frisian motto that can be seen on flags, houses and even on a stone at the Red Cliff, south of the Stavoren surf spot. Where people surf today, the Frisians had long fought for their independence in the Middle Ages and ultimately secured it through the Battle of Warns, near Stavoren, in 1345. This is something the Frisians remain proud of to this day. Every year, the anniversary of the Battle of Warns is celebrated with great ceremony at the Red Cliff. The Frisians on the IJsselmeer also have other reasons to be proud, such as their surf spots in the north-east of the inland waterway region.
In some places, the beaches of the former ‘Zuiderzee’ still have a touch of that South Sea atmosphere, at least when the weather is right. Much like the South Seas, the IJsselmeer in this area is also a fairly calm stretch of water, and the lack of reefs is more than made up for by plenty of sandbanks.
The shallow standing areas and excellent facilities make the eastern side of the IJsselmeer a perfect spot for beginners and those looking to improve their skills, as well as a hotspot for the Dutch and West German surfing scenes. This makes it all the more surprising that, not far from well-known surfing hotspots such as Makkum or Hindeloopen, you can still find relatively empty and little-visited stretches of beach for surfing – such as Stavoren.
What many spots have in common is that they work best in south-westerly to north-westerly winds. In these conditions, the wind blows side- to side-onshore. With westerly winds, you often have to walk quite a distance to get past the very flat sections before having to contend with the short, steep IJsselmeer waves. If the wind blows from an easterly direction, there are a whole host of inland waterways to choose from as alternatives.
General information:
Wind, weather & wetsuit recommendations: In the Netherlands, good windsurfing conditions require a low-pressure system moving eastwards from the Atlantic. Consequently, particularly in spring and autumn, the likelihood of catching a low-pressure system is higher than in summer. In summer, stable easterly wind conditions can occur, which means offshore winds on the eastern side of the IJsselmeer. If only a light westerly breeze is forecast but the sun is shining, thermal gusts regularly build up, and local windsurfers can enjoy a few knots more than originally forecast.
Air and water temperatures average 17–18 degrees in summer, so a short-sleeved wetsuit or a 4/3 long-sleeved wetsuit is sufficient. Anyone travelling early or late in the year, or who gets caught in a proper low-pressure system, should bring a 5/3 long-sleeve wetsuit with them, as well as shoes, as there are rocks lurking in the water at some spots.
Due to its shallow depth, the water temperature of the IJsselmeer adapts more quickly to the air temperature than, for example, the open North Sea. This applies both as a positive factor in spring and as a negative one in autumn. On the other hand, however, the large shallow areas offer a certain degree of comfort and safety, particularly in cold weather – it’s possible to climb back out of the water without having to swim far, and drifting away is almost impossible. That’s why you’re never alone on the water here, even on cold winter’s days.
Accommodation & Camping: In the Netherlands, wild camping is generally prohibited, and fines of up to 100 euros may be imposed. That’s not the only reason why it’s worth heading to one of the many campsites or simply renting a holiday home or flat. These are often available right at the spot. We’ve put together a selection of campsites for you here:
Makkum
- De Hollepoarte (www.hollepoarte.nl/de)
- Sotterum (www.sotterum.nl)
Workum
- It Soal Aquaresort (www.itsoal.nl/de)
- Camping Suderse (http://suderse.nl/de/)
Hindeloopen
- Hindeloopen Campsite (www.campinghindeloopen.nl)
- Camping Schuilenburg (www.camping-schuilenburg.nl)
Molkwerum
- Camping Séleantsje (www.surfcamping.nl)
Stavoren
- Marina Stavoren (right next to the surf spot; register at the Potvis restaurant; www.de-potvis.nl)
- Camping Sudermeer (www.campingsudermeer.nl)
Local tip: Anyone who has ever fancied living in a wine barrel should definitely check out the Hotel Vrouwe van Stavoren (www.hotel-vrouwevanstavoren.nl) Do consider this!
Surf schools & shops: Apart from the Stavoren spot, beginners and those looking to improve will find well-equipped surf schools on every stretch of beach, where you can book lessons and hire windsurfing equipment and SUP boards. Many of these schools also have a shop attached:
Makkum
- Funsport Makkum (www.funsportmakkum.nl)
- Surf Makkum (www.surf-makkum.com/de)
Workum
- Core ’n More Surfshop (www.corenmore.nl)
- Soal Surf (soalsurf.nl)
Hindeloopen:
- Gearfreak NL, on the beach at the Schuilenburg campsite (www.gearfreak.nl)
- OK Kite & Surf School (www.oksurf.de)
Downsides: In some places, groynes and stones are in the water (Hindeloopen); otherwise, the sandbanks and shallow water are just the ticket for capsizing and fin damage. In late autumn, the water level of the IJsselmeer is artificially lowered by 20–30 centimetres to protect the dykes from damage. The shallow areas of the spots then become even shallower as a result. During the peak season, the spots are also bustling with kitesurfers and beginners.
Alternative programme: Should there be no wind, the flat surrounding countryside, with its excellent network of cycle paths, is ideal for cycling trips. Those who don’t want to stray too far from the water should set off on a stand-up paddleboard (SUP) to explore the countless canals and waterways; trips from one place to another are also easily possible. Leuwaarden, situated a little to the north-east, is an old university town offering plenty of charm and numerous opportunities for a night out. Workum, Makkum, Hindeloopen and Stavoren, as former trading towns with direct access to the North Sea trade routes, still give a glimpse of the prosperity of bygone days, with houses straight out of a picture book. Here, alongside many small shops, you’ll also find a wide range of restaurants and bars. We particularly recommend the restaurant and whisky bar De Koebrug (http://dekoebrug.nl) in Stavoren. There, almost everyone is bound to find a warming tipple from the bar’s extensive selection and feel as though they’re in Scotland for a moment.
The best spots on the eastern IJsselmeer
1) Makkum
This top spot once hosted the then-very-popular one-hour slalom event. Makkum’s atmosphere is markedly different from that of the other surf spots on the eastern shore of the IJsselmeer, with towering hotels instead of dykes and sheep. Off Makkum, a bay is formed by the Beach Resort to the south and a headland to the north. In the middle of the bay, a walkable jetty extends far out into the water, dividing the bay into two sections. Even beyond the end of the jetty, the water remains knee-deep for another hundred metres before you need to consider using longer fins – perfect for practising manoeuvres, freestyling and for beginners. The wind window covers all westerly directions, though south-westerly and north-westerly winds are ideal. An easterly wind isn’t recommended; Molkwerum or Stavoren offer alternatives in such conditions. In warm weather, you should also keep an eye out for the many swimmers in Makkum!
2) Workum
Looking north from Hindeloopen harbour, at first you might think it’s a mirage – a white sandy beach glistens on the shore. If you set out to find it, you’ll discover it in Workum. Follow the signs to the It Soal campsite and park right in front of it in a free car park in a small copse. A bridge leads across to the fine-sandy beach. The atmosphere is certainly right, though the water can sometimes be dangerously shallow. Workum is the spot where even those using wave or seagrass fins can touch the bottom on sandbanks even far from the shore. So be careful! On the other hand, it offers perfect conditions for all beginners and those moving up a level, who can safely cover their first few metres on a windsurf board here. Thanks to the nearby campsite, surf school and toilets, the facilities are excellent, although you do need to keep an eye out for the kitesurfing lessons that also take place in the bay.
3) Hindeloopen
‘Loopen’ means ‘to walk’, and that’s exactly what you’ll be doing in Hindeloopen on the IJsselmeer. First, you need to scramble over the Westerdijk to the south of the village, and then you can prepare for another walk through the water. You can park along the dyke if you’re not staying at the Schuilenburg campsite, from where you have direct access to the water. Along the surfing area, which is situated in front of the pavilion on the dyke, wooden groynes jut out a fair way into the water, but even beyond that the water remains very shallow for a long way, with some very flat sandbanks and the odd stone in the water. The best wind directions here are south-westerly or north-westerly; with a westerly wind, you first have to walk a few metres or tack to leave the very shallow area behind you. Looking towards the IJsselmeer, to the right of Camping Hindeloopen is the area designated for kitesurfers; to the left, the shore is open to windsurfers.
A relatively overlooked but, in our opinion, good spot in Hindeloopen is right in the town itself: to the south of the harbour, near the church with its striking leaning tower, you can park for free behind the dyke – at least when the place isn’t completely packed. Here, even with a westerly wind – which blows sideshore here – you can reach deeper water relatively quickly after just a few metres without worrying about your fin. However, you’ll be crossing the harbour’s shipping channel, so be sure to give way to boats entering and leaving the harbour! In return, the view of the town from the water is magnificent, and the town also offers more than enough options for leisure activities after a session of surfing.
4) Molkwerum
If you’re looking for deeper water and safe riding even with longer fins, or want to practise chop hops or other aerial manoeuvres, you’ll find the perfect spot in front of the Séleantsje campsite. It’s usually much quieter here than at the Hindeloopen hotspot, three kilometres away, and thanks to the greater water depth, a few lovely ramps for jumping form here when there’s a strong westerly wind. There’s also a small standing area here, and even with a north-easterly wind – which occurs regularly, especially in spring – Molkwerum is a good alternative to the offshore conditions in Makkum and elsewhere at that time. Speaking of ‘offshore’: South-westerly winds are also good for riding; on the right-hand side of the bay, you’ll find the finest flat water – though a short freestyle or seagrass fin is a must in these conditions.
5) Stavoren
Perhaps the best spot in this area and still a real hidden gem on the IJsselmeer! South of the marina and the village, you’ll find sheltered, free parking spaces, grassy areas for rigging up, and toilet facilities. What’s more, compared to the other spots, you reach deeper water relatively quickly. That’s why, even here, waves build up quickly in stronger winds, which does make a waveboard a viable option in an inland spot – a great ‘bump & jump’ spot for practising jumps and loops. Surfers with slalom ambitions will find plenty of navigation buoys off the sandbanks, allowing them to carve out their own private training course. The spot offers an extensive standing area on the left-hand side, making it a perfect all-round spot for surfers of all ability levels.
One final tip: Why not go on a trip along the coast with friends when there are westerly winds – and therefore onshore winds – and visit the surf spots mentioned above one by one – from the water, of course!