Spot Guide Austria: Lake Neusiedl and Lake Zicksee - these are the best windsurfing spots
Editor's note: This article is from 2017, some things in it are no longer correct according to surf readers. We have adjusted the date accordingly!
Every Austrian surfer who ventures into unknown salt waters is probably familiar with this situation: you strike up a conversation with like-minded people, which inevitably leads to the question: "Where are you from?" The answer: "I am from Austria" often leaves the dripping counterpart wondering. "What? You can surf there?" Yes, you can! It is not uncommon for the perplexed question to be followed by a minute-long Austrian-English answer including a very precise description of Arnold Schwarzenegger's country of birth and the coordinates of our lovingly named "Gatschlackn", Lake Neusiedl.
Burgenland offers high recreational value
If the person you're talking to is still confused, you finally capitulate: "It's like Lake Garda." Only without deep water, thermals and Italians. The fact that Austria isn't just a ski racing destination has been known at least since the Surf World Cup was held here for many years. And because you can easily combine a snowboard session in the morning and an evening session on the water in Burgenland, the region doesn't have to hide behind top international spots in terms of recreational value.
There is a reason why foreign tourists have so far paid little or no attention to Lake Neusiedl: people underestimate it! But breathtaking sunsets, foehn days when the thermometer reads 35 degrees and the lake boils at 25 knots, top wines and excellent gastronomy that can bring you back to life, as well as the proximity to the great cultural metropolis of Vienna, form an overall package that is definitely attractive.
The steppe lake, known (behind closed doors) as the "Sea of the Viennese", is located in the east of the country and, at 320 square kilometres, is the largest lake in Austria, with the lower part belonging to Hungary and almost half covered by reeds. It is home to various species of animals, especially mosquitoes (the Austrian word for nasty mosquitoes).
Caribbean feeling with mud factor
In terms of thermals, "Lago di Gatsch" has nothing in common with its Italian brother, as the region draws almost all of its wind from passing north-westerly fronts, which provide the best conditions, especially in spring when temperatures fluctuate greatly. In summer, southerly winds sweep across the lake, making many a surfer's heart beat faster. The air and water then reach Caribbean temperatures and board shorts or a bikini will suffice.
However, the name "Gatschlackn" does not come from just anywhere: the entire lake bed is covered in mud, which has been increasingly filled in with sand and stones in the area of the lakeside resorts. A good alternative to Lake Neusiedl used to be Lake Zicksee (5) not far to the east. However, due to a few dry years, surfing is no longer possible there.
I will now introduce you to the best spots - perhaps I can persuade you to include our "sea" in your upcoming holiday plans - you won't regret it!
The best windsurfing spots on the Lake Neusiedl &and at Lake Zicksee
1) Podersdorf
Podersdorf works best with winds from the north and north-west, but then it gets really crowded on the water, especially in summer or on long weekends. A pure westerly wind is also good for surfing, at least in theory, but the forecasts for this wind direction should be treated with caution. Directions such as south and south-west are normally good, but with south-east it is better to switch to another spot. For most windsurfers, the north beach is the number one spot. Access is closed during the main season (May-October) and you have to pay an entrance fee (approx. 9 euros), but parking is free. Caution for motorhome or coach travellers, parking in Podersdorf is not permitted from 10.00 pm to 6.00 am and you will be asked to pay if you stop - it is better to use the nearby campsite or book a cheap guesthouse! The campsite has its own access to the lake and the spot in this bay is really great. Surf schools and shops including Sailrepair are also on site in Podersdorf. The Nordstrand surf school, whose owner is affectionately known as "Kurtl", is particularly recommended and there is also a small snack bar right by the lake.
2) Neusiedl
In 2017, the Surf World Cup will take place here for the first time and not in Podersdorf as before. Neusiedl is the northernmost spot on Lake Neusiedl and is particularly popular with southerly winds, as they are usually the strongest and onshore and can build up constantly across the entire lake without gusts. Surfers who want to get out on the water in Neusiedl in summer have to buy a day ticket for 8.50 euros. Apart from the swimming area, there are no restrictions on the water - the local lifeguard keeps a wary eye on what's going on and is happy to blow his whistle if anyone fails to comply. If you head 300 metres out of the bay, you will find perfect conditions with a southerly wind, shallow water and endless space for racing, freeriding or (in very easterly winds) a detour to Breitenbrunn. In general, the Neusiedl spot is a huge, safe bay, the edges of which are marked by reeds. South wind also builds up a short, steep wave, only a few hundred metres to the right of the western breakwater is a small bay that is spared from the south wind waves due to an island of reeds and offers mirror-smooth, waist-deep water. However, you can also have a lot of fun in Neusiedl in the north-west, when it is much smoother overall, but also quite gusty, as the wind then comes over land.
3) Willows
The spot in Weiden works in almost all wind directions, Weiden is ideal for south-east and north-west winds. There are plenty of car parks and a huge lido (again with an entrance fee). Here, however, you have to walk out of the cover of the reed belt to get into the water. Once you've made it a few metres, the spot shows its strengths. Freestylers will find small waves for tricks here, while free riders and slalom pilots can simply speed straight ahead endlessly. The only disadvantage: the water is never really smooth and you have to live with steep chop, but Weiden practically always works. You should be wary of the backwash of the jetty and the shore wall of the lido, as it is no easy task to conjure up a controlled manoeuvre in the choppy waves coming from all directions.
4) Illmitz
If it's blowing purely from the north, that means only one thing: off to Illmitz! Unfortunately, these sessions are very rare - but when the go-ahead comes for a spot change there, everyone's eyes light up. Backloops on Lake Neusiedl?! Yes, it's really true. There are small ramps in Illmitz (for us locals they are real waves - but we are Austrians). New-school freestylers unpack the latest power moves over the waves when the wind blows from the left. The spot is less suitable for beginners who are not yet able to take to the water, as the waves come back from the shore and the (sheet) take-off alone can be a difficult endeavour. You only pay a small parking fee here in summer and can then use the beach for free.
General info Lake Neusiedl
Wind, weather & neoprene recommendation
The best time for a trip to Burgenland is from March to June. According to statistics, this is when you get almost 50 per cent of gliding wind, a value that the spot has nothing to hide in international comparison. While other Alpine spots such as Lake Garda or the North and Baltic Seas often still have to live with single-digit water temperatures in April and May, a few warm days at the shallow Lake Neusiedl are enough to warm the water to bathtub temperature. Accordingly, shorties are sometimes the order of the day here in summer. Conversely, things unfortunately go downhill just as quickly when cold fronts pass through, so a long-sleeved wetsuit must be packed for safety. Stable high-pressure conditions tend to be a wind killer, and the region is best with north-westerly winds, which often reach between 18 and 30 knots. Southerly winds are also a welcome guest, although they are more moderate.
Webcams
Under www.neusiedlersee.webcam Upside Down operates two webcams in Podersdorf. Weather data is also available from a station directly at Podersdorf lighthouse, which can be found at www.usd.at/usdworld/wind-wetter.html
Local tip
Windguru and Windfinder are reliable in the north-west. You can usually add a few knots to the forecast. Also tried and tested www.windyty.com (but please use the more accurate NEMS model). Forecasts for westerly winds should be treated with caution - often the wind does not reach the region!
Arrival
Podersdorf or Neusiedl are ideal starting points. Neusiedl is 45 minutes from Vienna and can be reached via the A4 motorway. The journey from Munich takes around five to six hours. Alternatively, Vienna Schwechat Airport is about 30 minutes away.
Living & Camping
The region is excellently developed for tourism, with everything from 5-star palaces to campsites right on the water. However, wild camping is taboo. In addition to numerous small guesthouses and room rentals, there is also a campsite in Podersdorf. It is best to check the websites of the tourist organisations: Bookings are recommended on long weekends:
Surf centre
The area is perfectly developed in this respect, and you can hire windsurfing equipment and SUP boards and book courses or surf camps at all the spots.
Podersdorf
- Surfing and sailing school Nordstrand: The latest Duotone equipment, a large test centre and a small bay that is one of the best places to learn to surf. www.nordstrand.at
- Mission to Surf: Small, fine surf school right next to the campsite: www.surf-schule.at
Neusiedl
- Sailing school Neusiedl: Current material from Duotone; www.segelschule-neusiedl.at
Willows
- Surf school Kreindl: www.kreindl.at
Surf camps
Every year, the surf shop Upside Down organises a children's camp for the youngest surfers (6-11 years) with the Nordstrand surf school. Thanks to the support of Boards & More, the latest equipment and lightweight iRigs are available. Information on www.nordstrand.at and www.usd.at. Mission to Surf also organises several children's weeks for kids aged ten and over during the summer holidays - even with accommodation. More information soon at www.surf-schule.at
Surf shops
Podersdorf
- Surfshop Upside Down (largest surf shop in Austria): Gaastra, NeilPryde, Duotone, Tabou, JP-Australia, Flikka and much more. www.usd.at
Alternative programme
The cultural metropolis of Vienna is only 45 minutes away; various wine cellars with sales; Seewinkel National Park; wellness in the St. Martinstherme near Frauenkirchen; family adventure park in St. Magarethen; wakeboard facility in Györ/Hungary
This article first appeared in surf 6/2017
