- Planet Allsports as an ideal base
- Wave session in Liowa (3)
- Windsurfing spot in the large bay of Sal Rei (4)
- Windsurfing spot directly in front of Ilhéu de Sal Rei (2)
- Spot Morabeza Beach (5)
- Safety on the water
- Conclusion: Great variety of spots with small pitfalls
- All windsurfing spots on Boa Vista
- Spot Info Boa Vista/Cape Verde
TUI direct flight from Hanover to Boa Vista! After about five hours we fly over the Canary Islands, and a further two hours later we are already approaching the island of Boa Vista. We are looking forward to plenty of trade winds, white sandy beaches, turquoise-coloured water, summer temperatures and a friendly, lively and accessible culture! This is my fifth trip to the Cape Verde Islands, but so far it has always been a great experience. Sal which has become world-famous thanks to Ponta Preta, the spot with world-class waves, as this location has frequently hosted Wave World Cups with north-west swell. And many remember the scenes in the windsurfing film "Mind's Wide Open", when Kauli Seadi rocked Ali Baba in epic conditions!
In contrast, however, we are aiming for more moderate windsurfing conditions on Boa Vista. Boa Vista is called "the last island" by the locals because for many years there were hardly any towns worth mentioning and other islands were more in the focus of the Cape Verdean government, as we learnt. Hotel pioneer Francesco Lazzari explains.
The TUI plane lands on Boa Vista in the late morning and within ten minutes we are at our accommodation Ca Nicola in the small town of Sal Rei. On the recommendation of Felix Quadfaß from Planet Allsports, we deliberately decided against a larger all-inclusive hotel in favour of a small, family-run accommodation with a view of the beach, where we can go into town for dinner every evening and get to know the country and its people a little.
Boa Vista is still relatively unknown
Before we started our journey, the people around us didn't really know what to make of the destination "Boa Vista" ("Where is that?"). To catch you up briefly: Cape Verde consists of a total of nine inhabited and other uninhabited islands of volcanic origin and is located around 1,500 kilometres south of the Canary Islands and 500 kilometres west of the African coast. Our destination Boa Vista is around 30 kilometres wide and has 55 kilometres of beautiful and sometimes seemingly endless sandy beaches. Due to the year-round drought, virtually nothing grows on this island, which mostly consists of rocky deserts and sand dunes. When we drive across the island in the pick-up, we hardly see any villages or people, just endless stretches of stone and, closer to the beaches, lots of soft sand, which is where we got stuck in the pick-up.
Yes, even days beforehand, we kept checking the wind forecast, which predicted a constant trade wind - 15 to 23 knots a day from the north-east made the anticipation very high! In fact, the trade wind belt is located at the height of the Canary Islands in the summer months and then moves to the height of the Cape Verde Islands in the winter months. While the Canary Islands sometimes have stronger trade winds in winter, typically over three or four days and up to 30 knots at the peak, the trade winds spoil Cape Verde with an almost constant blast from December to April. According to our own experience, the months of February to April in particular are considered to be very wind-safe, although the average wind force is around 15-20 knots and less than that.
Planet Allsports as an ideal base
After less than a five-minute walk, we have already arrived at our base, the Planet Allsports centre. If you're staying in Sal Rei, Planet Allsports is the closest centre, while the centres further south are sometimes almost half an hour's walk away. Our boards are stored at Planet Allsports, and the centre is also equipped with good Goya windsurfing equipment, the latest duotone/KT wingfoil equipment, SUPs and surfboards. Right next to the centre is the Tortuga restaurant and beach club with a few sunbeds and parasols for non-surfers.
In front of the station, the water conditions are quite smooth on the majority of days. Of course, because the wind here blows offshore from the town of Sal Rei, so that the water is really flattened. And only on a few days, i.e. with a north-westerly or even westerly swell, do long waves push so deep into the bay that clean waves usually come in at good intervals. A shorebreak in front of the Planet Allsports centre is usually harmless, as the small island of Ilhéu de Sal Rei is located off the coast, meaning that even less experienced windsurfers can get in.
These water colours! And these marvellous beaches, it's all a dream!"
Even if we repeat ourselves at this point: The water here has such wonderful "Caribbean" water colours, i.e. turquoise blue. "These water colours! And these marvellous beaches, it's all a dream!" says Dennis as he heads out for the first time with his board and sail in his hands.
The further out, the better the wind
For the first 200 to 300 metres or so before the station, it is very, very gusty and planing is only possible if you catch a gust or, in the best-case scenario, miss it. However, in the first part of the large bay you are quickly out of planing again, unless you have picked up good speed beforehand and a piece of space sheet has fallen off. The deeper you go, i.e. the further you move away from Sal Rei, the more constant the wind becomes.
However, Dennis Müller has other things on his mind, because the "Liowa" wave is waiting! With his 105-litre waveboard and the 5.7 wave sail, the 96-kilo powerhouse is heading for this wave downwind of Sal Rei harbour. It's easily a kilometre from the Planet Allsports station, and when we stand at the station and look towards Liowa, we can only see the wave dimly, that's how far away it is.
Be that as it may, these offshore, gusty wind conditions are not without their problems for Dennis, as he often comes out of the planing again, as he doesn't want to fall off, because he wants to go to Liowa with about half the wind. After about two thirds of the way, the wind becomes more constant and feels even stronger, as the harbour area is not as densely built up as the town of Sal Rei, where more and more high-rise buildings are being constructed.
Wave session in Liowa (3)
Dennis drives almost to the harbour exit to be able to take a comfortable starting position for the wave and to wait for sets that suit him just as well. "On most days, you have to keep your eyes open and wait for the sets," adds the WeOne/GunSails team rider. Liowa (the "lioness") is so typical because it builds up shortly after entering the harbour and then breaks for the first time in the middle of the wave after maybe 100 metres. It only breaks at the top of the wave, and although it is certainly not slow, it just has less pressure, or "punch" as Dennis puts it.
The wave then continues and, in the best case scenario, breaks again after another 100 metres. However, the force of the wave has then - typically - decreased. "But be aware that the two peaks can also barrel on good days. But that's where windsurfers can easily and safely stay out," adds Gabriel, head of the Planet Allsports centre.
And this wave pattern is repeated day after day. Of course, the wave height is determined by the swell, i.e. from the north-west and west, but that's how "typical" Liowa is. And because the flow is exactly the same, it can be safely avoided on the left and right when heading out to sea, because what still arrives at the edges is a bit of swell and nothing more. But for Dennis, who usually likes to rip the waves of Norderney, Cape Town and One Eye, riding out is of course no problem, but every wave entrant and wave climber will be happy about this safe ride out!
Windsurfing spot in the large bay of Sal Rei (4)
However, if we travel a little further down the large bay, then further down, just above the island of Ilhéu de Sal Rei, we can still expect gusty winds, but they are a little more constant and are good enough for many windsurfers to go freeriding. However, it should also be noted that not every windsurfer will be happy here either, as the wind is more consistent here towards the island of Ilhéu de Sal Rei, but it is still "gusty". Quite a few windsurfers we spoke to during our time were not happy in this area either.
Windsurfing spot directly in front of Ilhéu de Sal Rei (2)
A little further down, the beautiful beach of Ilhéu de Sal Rei awaits us! This shallow, small bay with its fine white sand and glorious turquoise water is another "holiday on holiday" for us. Far away from other water sports enthusiasts, this marvellous location is worth three sessions on the slalom board for Dennis. On half strokes, he rides up to the sailing boats anchored in front of the island, before heading back towards the sandy beach and cutting his race jibes into the water in the shallows.
We get out here to take a look at the old fortress. It was built around 200 years ago, equipped with a few cannons, to protect the island's salt production, which was prevalent at the time, from pirate attacks. There is also a two-masted sailing ship off the island, and Dennis thinks he recognises the pirate Jack Sparrow on it, but that's another story.
Spot Morabeza Beach (5)
We continue down past the large dune to the Duotone Pro Centre and Kitekriol stations further downwind. The wind becomes increasingly free here and "it's really fun to press the accelerator pedal on the slalom board," Dennis beams at us. And yes, it is a nice speed piste here, because the wind blows offshore again, but where further up the city with many houses makes the wind gusty, it only comes over the flat land. And there are plenty of kiters on the water here, at least in front of the DPC and Kitekriol centres, due to the steady winds. Kitesurfing courses are also organised here. We have experienced days here when only some swell waves come in, but on the other hand, there is always more shorebreak here, which doesn't make it any easier to get out on the water with windsurfing equipment.
And while the Atlantic waves in front of these centres are even more moderate, there are some days when the waves in front of the two RIU hotels even further down can be quite a shorebreak. According to reports, there are more days with a full shorebreak here.
Safety on the water
Of course, safety is a very important issue in these offshore winds: the staff at the Planet Allsports station constantly keep an eye on their customers, i.e. on all windsurfers and wingfoilers who go out on the water wearing bright pink shirts and are therefore recognisable on the water. We often see the staff intensively scanning the spots with binoculars in order to be able to immediately rescue any customers who have had accidents. The centre is equipped with motorboats that can go out immediately in such cases. In our opinion, this is done very conscientiously by the centre. We cannot speak for the safety of other stations further south at this point, but we have observed that they also at least have motorboats in use.
Even if the conditions are generally rather tame, you shouldn't underestimate the shorebreak at the start.
Conclusion: Great variety of spots with small pitfalls
After a direct flight of around seven hours in the winter months, the Cape Verdean island of Boa Vista offers windsurfing conditions that appeal to many windsurfers, with very steady trade winds and smooth water and sometimes good waves.
In front of the Planet Allsports centre, which is the closest to the town of Sal Rei and offers a wide range of water sports, Liowa offers good waves for beginners and intermediates, as well as good flat water conditions for windsurfers and intermediates directly in front of the centre. Freeriders are better advised to travel a little further down or even to Morabeza Beach to get a steady wind there.
What needs to be said clearly: There are often voices that - rightly - criticise the difficult windsurfing conditions with the very gusty wind in the triangle between the Planet station, the town of Sal Rei and just before the island of Ilhéu de Sal Rei. In this triangle, the offshore wind is constantly on/off, which is not much fun for many. We experience a speed piste with free wind further down between the large sand dune and the RIU Hotel Karamboa. There are also several spots on the island with wind from the left and right, with smooth water and wave conditions.
All windsurfing spots on Boa Vista
- 1 Outside Reef ("English Reef")
- 2 Ilhéu de Sal Rei
- 3 Liowa
- 4 Planet Allsports Station
- 5 Morabeza Beach
- 6 Praia da Atalanta
- 7 Espinguera
- 8 Farol de Morro Negro
- 9 Praia Mosquito
- 10 Praia de Ervatao
- 11 Praia da Varadinha
8th Farol de Morro Negro
We hire a 4x4 pick-up to explore the island and get to know a spot with sideshore wind and a few waves. We drive for a good hour along roads that are paved at best, before returning to the spot to enjoy the beautiful water colours, bright sandy beaches and this never-ending trade wind, which today is blowing at around 20 knots. Further upwind there is a stretch of smoother water, and further down, as the tide ebbs, a wave builds up that is perhaps a metre high and clean in places. Apart from us, there is already a wingfoiler and about ten German and French kitesurfers on the water.
1. outside reef ("English Reef ")
There is also the Outside Reef, also known as the "English Reef", two kilometres from the coast. However, the waves there only break from a height of around three metres. It can be up to six metres high, barrels very powerfully and also has a very fat lip! This spot is only recommended for absolute wave pros, and even these should only go here with a boat escort.
2. behind the island of Ilhéu de Sal Rei
"Behind the island of Ilhéu de Sal Rei there are other waves, some of which are very clean, and also some in the 'Ponta Preta format'," as at the legendary spot on the neighbouring island of Sal, Gabriel, head of the Planet Allsports station, tells us.
6th shipwreck/Praia da Atlanta Santa
You park the car further up and walk down to the spot. Onshore wind, wavy and lots of rubbish.
7th Espinguera
This spot is on the right-hand side. With smoother water under land, you also have standing depth and swell waves further out.
9th Praia Mosquito ("Secret Spot 1")
You need a stronger wind from the north-east, otherwise it gets too gusty. The waves run over a point break with clean waves of over 200 metres.
10th Praia de Ervatao ("Secret Spot 2")
Located south of Praia Mosquito, with good lefthander waves as a point break, but not as radical as Praia Mosquito. Although this spot is the furthest location from Sal Rei at around one and a half hours by car, it is sometimes overcrowded with kitesurfers.
11th Praia da Vrandinha
The wave spot Vrandinha is located at the south-western point of the island. It works best with a north-west swell, the wind comes from the right and the waves break as a reef break.
Spot Info Boa Vista/Cape Verde
Stations
Planet Allsports Station
Sail areas from 3.7 to 8.5 square metres, freewave boards from 85 to 115 litres and freeride boards from 105 to 145 litres are available. The range is rounded off with surfboards and wingfoil equipment. The centre offers windsurfing, wingfoil and surfing courses. planetallsports. com/en/destinations/boavista-cape-verdeas
Windclub
The centre also offers windsurfing. Tip: The terrace of the wind club bar is a great place to round off the day with a drink together with like-minded water sports enthusiasts. You can admire the sunset and the skimboard action of the locals. windclubfg.info
A large sand dune follows behind the wind club. At low tide you can walk along the beach and at high tide you can walk along the dune to reach the more southerly stations. In front of the sand dune there is a good SUP and surfing area in the wind cover with generally moderate waves.
Kitezone Bubista
Praia Carlota beach begins immediately after the large dune. There is the Agua Beach Club with the Bubista kite centre. As in the other beach restaurants mentioned, Agua Beach has sun loungers for relaxing on. Please note that this centre does not offer windsurfing!
Windsports Centre
Duotone Pro Centre
This centre does not offer windsurfing! dpc-boavista.com
Kite Kriol
Tour operator
Security on Boa Vista
We felt safe on the island at all times. There was no perceptible crime, and two police officers were always to be found at every possible spot. They also liked to drive their quad bikes through the sand dunes and take breaks under a shady tree right in front of our accommodation, Ca Nicola.
Rental car
For those who not only want to windsurf in the large bay of Sal Rei and south of it, but also want to explore Boa Vista for spots themselves, cars can easily be hired. We recommend 4x4 pick-ups so that you can get around without getting stuck. The cost is around 70-80 euros/day.
Restaurants
The culinary offer is not large, but nevertheless varied and very good. If you like fresh fish and seafood, you're in good hands here. You can also get pizzas, meat and pasta. Our favourites are the centrally located restaurants Sodade, Bowlavista (under German management) and Té Manché (fish!) in Sal Rei. If you're hungry during the day, we recommend the Toca da Garoupa next to the Planet station, which is run by an Italian woman.
Evening programme
Cape Verdeans love to dance and party. Music is always playing somewhere and is part of everyday life. Boa Vista is not a party island, and yet there is always somewhere to party in Sal Rei.
Climate & neoprene recommendations
The tropical, dry climate, which is determined by the north-east trade winds, has around 350 days of sunshine a year. In the winter months, the daytime temperature is around 23-25 degrees and the water is 21 degrees. Even in the coolest months of January and February (which is also winter here), temperatures rarely fall below 18 degrees Celsius at night. We recommend a 3/2 wetsuit (either as a shorty or with long arms and legs) for the months of November and December and a 4/3 wetsuit for the months of January to April.
Shaft
The best waves are from December to February. The swell frequency decreases in March and especially in April. The prevailing swell direction in winter, which works all along the west coast, is north-west. If a north-east swell comes in, the waves run on the east coast. If the swell direction, period and height are right, world-class waves break on Boa Vista.
Money/costs
The prices in simple restaurants and guesthouses are quite favourable. However, everyday products are not, as almost everything has to be imported. The local currency is the Cape Verde escudo (CVE). The exchange rate is 1 euro = 100 CVE, and you can pay everywhere (!) with euros. Employees in restaurants, food and clothing shops earn around 250 euros a month.
