The man really does look like Brian Talma! But just like the Brian I remember from the surf magazines of the 90s. I must have stared at him for too long, he's looking at me very seriously. What's that? I'm 59 years old and surely this man should look at least as old as me?
Barbados, which many windsurfers associate with Brian Talma
When you're as old as I am and only ever fly to the Canary Islands and otherwise hang out in "Cold Hawaii", you can ask yourself a lot of questions. So, it couldn't go on like this, and as my wife has been watching the TV series "Death in Paradise" for years, I gave her a flight to the Caribbean for her birthday, not entirely unselfishly. I was quite relieved when she let go of the French-influenced original locations of this programme, as she speaks English very well and thought that Barbados, as a former British colony, would offer us the opportunity to communicate. We would also be able to avoid French cuisine, because eating is nice, but it doesn't necessarily have to take hours here, there are better options ...
Barbados! Sure ... you can certainly windsurf there, because that's where Brian Talma comes from, and anyone who has become a windsurfing silver curl like me still knows Brian Talma, Josh Stone or Francisco Goya, the young freaks of the 90s who gave windsurfing its best impetus.
"Nobody can windsurf in this heat!"
As we crawl out of the plane in Barbados and stagger across the airfield, I'm surprised that we obviously have to go straight through the downdraft of the turbine before I realise that we've been away from the plane for a long time. It's the normal wind in Barbados! My wife says: "Look, it's windy!" and I just think: "Nobody can windsurf in this heat!"
The next morning there are kites hanging in the sky at Silver Rock Beach, and how am I supposed to get into my wetsuit in this heat? Is there any windsurfing equipment here at all? Was that really Brian Talma or was that perhaps his son? Why was he looking at me so seriously? Questions upon questions. I wish I had booked El Medano ... it's all kiters here ... What am I supposed to do as the only windsurfer among all the kiters ...?
The next day I go to the windy beach very early and quite desperate, and I spot a windsurfer! Russel has lived in England for 30 years and now wants to windsurf in his home country. We immediately talk about his new board and he mentions that he has borrowed the rig from Brian. Russel is keen to get out on the water and, after our chat, skilfully takes off through the shore break, which is no more challenging than in Medano, and heads for the beautiful waves over the reef.
Surf equipment is available from Brian
Nothing can hold me back any longer, I run to our flat, tell my wife, who is really relieved that the old sod has finally got the knot and rush to Brian's surfing station to overcome any further obstacles.
But Brian isn't even there, he's just taking his children to school and is a little late for the Caribbean, as I find out from the young German couple who want to take beginner's kitesurfing lessons with him. Of course, I advise them against this sport, but the die is already cast. In return, they tell me that my new windsurfing buddy Russel defended windsurfing against certain kitesurfing locals in a heroic (I added that) fistfight on the beach last night. But that's not Brian's shtick at all, as he later explains, because he comes round the corner a short time later with a big smile on his face.
This really is Brian Talma, who I met on the beach. The guy is simply in top shape and has the well-trained physique of a young man. But he's immediately bombarded with kitesurfing questions until I interject at some point: "Mr Talma, is it possible ..."
Windsurfing in boardshorts for the first time
He smiles at me and all my worries fall away, we go to his board storage and I have a free choice. Russel comes off the water, tells my wife, who has also joined us, that his bones are aching and then immediately supports me by letting me take over his rig from Brian. I quickly forget about my stupid wetsuit and just go for it in my swimming trunks and a normal T-shirt.
What can I say? I wasn't cold for a second! I windsurfed in swimming trunks for the first time in my life and I didn't freeze - marvellous! I don't even want to go back to El Medano! Even though I made a mistake in my choice of board and Brian quickly put another board on the beach for me, this spot is a dream: After 200 metres you ride over a reef through a surf zone, but this is not a problem because the reef is deep enough underwater. Here the water between the waves is beautifully smooth. I regret that the wind has died down, it would have been perfect for me here today.
My Beach Culture World Tour aims to promote and implement sustainable tourism.
People age more slowly in Barbados
The only thing you need for windsurfing here is a good sun cream and sunglasses. I would definitely recommend both, because the backs of my hands were pretty red the next day. I must have forgotten them. I attached my sports sunglasses to the back of my head with an elasticated strap. Without sunglasses, the light on the white beach is incredibly harsh. This beach isn't called "Silver Rock Beach" for nothing. Later, I buy a "wrestling shirt" with long sleeves. This is pleasantly cool on the skin even after swimming or snorkelling and has a UV factor of 50+, so there's no need to apply annoying cream to my upper body.
Yes, but why does Brian Talma look so young and I look so old? This question does concern me. I get the answer from our guide through an old manor house: "We Bajans all look younger than we actually are!" The proof: we can guess how old she is. I guess 21, because we've already learnt that she has A-levels and has been to school. She laughs her head off and has a great time because she's already 30 years old! So, the Bajans just don't get old. And speaking of the Bajans (Beijschans), you should definitely drink their homemade lemonade, which is available in every restaurant or bar and is made with lots of ginger. Exactly what an overheated palate dreams of. Of course, the rum punch here is absolutely delicious, but it's alcohol, which is better to drink when it's dark in the evening or when you can handle alcohol as well as Philip Köster with the double loop. Apart from that, there are countless small traders who roam the streets with very colourful concoctions and can conjure up drinks from these colourful bottles that are as visually seductive as Rihanna, who also comes from Barbados. But I don't dare.
Whales off the coast and snorkelling at Turtle Beach
The wind continues to blow the next morning, this time Brian gives me an early planing rig, Starship 115 and 6.3 m2 sails. It's a marvellous start, I sail over the reef onto the open Caribbean Sea. Dreamlike. But it only lasts for a short time. I try waiting, but the wind remains light and the kitesurfers are happy, it still seems to be enough for them. Brian joins us on the beach and shows us a family of whales leaping exuberantly out of the water behind the reef. It's incredible what these huge animals are doing.
So far, I had somewhat neglected the needs of my non-windsurfing wife. So the next calm morning we went snorkelling at Turtle Beach. But it's jinxed, this time the wind doesn't pick up, it picks up. It's rattling. I spot a turtle snorkelling here, but the current between the beach and the nearby reef is so strong due to the wind that it's not for my wife. I'm getting more and more restless, she knows me, I need to be taken to Silver Rock Beach for windsurfing as soon as possible. The sand flies on the beach and Brian gives me the thumbs up. After a short time, we are at his board camp, but somehow something has changed: The wind is dying down at this moment. I still go out, but the wind is getting weaker and weaker, so the kiters soon come off the water too. Is this my karma? A windless period of one week follows. Yes, and I'll say this right away: the wind picks up again on the day of departure, just before we set off.
Boat tour with Captain Sheldon
At home in Halli, my mate Werner and I always have a few beers when the wind dies down and then it usually comes back very quickly. But here it doesn't help that I drink one Deputy (that's the local beer) after the other in the evening, the wind doesn't return for the next few days and I get the beginnings of a life crisis, as always when I don't get out on the water for a long time. What am I even working for if I can't even windsurf?
I get the beginnings of a life crisis, as I always do when I don't get out on the water for any length of time.
I'm thinking about chartering a boat to go out to sea and fish for really big fish, just like my role model Ernest Hemingway in the book "Islands in the Stream". Destroy a lot of drinks, fight a big fish. The man's dream costs 1000 dollars per person. Action!
"Teddy, are you shooting completely free now? What do you want to do with such a big fish anyway?" my wife asks when I tell her about this idea. I keep my further thoughts to myself and we charter a snorkelling tour close to the shore with Captain Sheldon, who looks like a pirate but is happy with 80 quid per person and gives us a wonderful tour off the coast of Holetown all by ourselves. Sheldon knows his stuff. "Why are there so many turtles here, Sheldon?" "We feed them ... with fish. Hahaha..." Sheldon is an honest guy. After this wonderful experience, we treat ourselves to a piña colada with good Bajan rum on the beach - it was a must.
How did we get to Sheldon and not end up on such a crowded catamaran? Just ask the guys on the beach. They'll help you. No internet.
Lost Place at Silver Sands Beach
On the next calm day, we explore Silver Rock Beach's neighbour, the legendary Silver Sands Beach, which is only separated from Silver Rock Beach by a rocky outcrop. Behind these two beaches is a beautiful park with toilets and showers. As we make our way to the beach, a cat keeps hiding from us. I want to see it and run after it, and the animal turns into a monkey that jumps onto a wall and shows me its teeth. I could also swear that it was showing me its middle finger. But it gets even more mystical: we have to cross the grounds of a huge abandoned resort that is overgrown by jungle. Everything is still there: pool, bar, the former surf shop and lots of abandoned flats ... and not a soul around. But you can sit in the shade on the beach and watch turtles poking their heads out of the sea.
There's not a soul on this beach, so you're happy if a hiker comes by. The resort is for sale, anyone who wants to can revive the glory days of windsurfing here or whatever. I just hope that the jungle keeps the upper hand.
Even though we have probably ended up in a rather deserted corner of this area, there is the "Surfers Paradise" not far from Silver Sands, a very nice bar with great live music, which is also very popular in the evenings. Otherwise, you have to go to Oistins to the fish market, where the Bajans are always in high spirits and you can get grilled fish for really little money because the portions are so huge that you'll be full again the next day. Just freeze it and put it in the pan the next day. Nothing goes wrong and it tastes great again!
What you need to know about Barbados
I learnt that on Barbados and that's why I didn't fly home frustrated, even though I didn't get to windsurf as much as I'd hoped:
- It's really nice here even without windsurfing, if, yes, if you're not hectic. Whatever you do, do it slowly. If you don't, you'll see what happens.
- Does Brian really look that good? My wife, who realises that I have been gripped by enormous self-doubt, says to me later: "Teddy, you look much younger than Brian Talma!" Yes, I guess that's what you call love. She wasn't telling the truth, but at least I'm not quite so decrepit after all. Let me put it this way: windsurfing keeps you fit, I don't know of any other sport where I haven't had sore muscles in all parts of my body at the same time after a big session. You just have to get out on the water regularly. I also go surfing or stand-up paddling to balance things out.
- You can fly to Barbados without any surf stuff. If you don't need the very latest equipment, Brian Talma has everything you need at his centre. If I'd had more time, I would have liked to learn wingsurfing with him. He is very conscientious in his training and the kitesurfing student I spoke to had already mastered it the next day. However, you absolutely have to leave your wetsuit at home, it's enough to take your harness with you. The best way to contact Brian is via Instagram. He also rents out a nice flat directly above his centre. The area can be compared to El Medano in terms of quality. The height of the waves over the reef depends on the swell. However, I found it unproblematic with a swell of two metres.
- I don't need to learn kitesurfing, it's just annoying.
- It's expensive in Barbados: a packet of butter costs ten euros in the supermarket. It is also worth looking for local products there, as they are cheaper. Example: chocolate.
- Will I be back? I'd love to, the Bajans are really super friendly, even if they often look so serious, they have a sense of humour and can be really happy about little sayings. I love the people!
Text: Raban Cramer
