You can't avoid all the usual Caribbean clichés on a trip to Guadeloupe - palm beaches, rum and water colours that you would otherwise only see on photo wallpaper make you dream. When you also know that the trade winds here conjure up white whitecaps on the water on up to 80 per cent of all days and that you don't have to leave Euroland to travel here, you begin to wonder why you didn't consider travelling here much earlier.
That's how I feel when I land in the French colony after an eight-hour direct flight from Paris, without crossing any borders, applying for visas or changing money. Camille Juban, probably the island's best-known windsurfer, local and World Cup colleague, greets me with a broad grin and excitedly tells me about an approaching north swell that is due to hit the island in the next few days. We drive through the small villages along the coast in his rickety jeep on narrow roads, Bob Marley beats blaring at full volume from the radio speakers, and the last rays of sunlight bathe the landscape in a golden light. People sit in small groups in front of their houses, children play in the street and stray dogs search for something to eat.
The clocks definitely tick a little slower here and stress seems to be a foreign concept for many of the almost 400,000 inhabitants. But I'm not here to hang out on the beach as a package tourist - as is quite common on the heavily touristed south coast of Guadeloupe - but as a traveller I want to discover new territory, soak up the Caribbean flair like a sponge and, above all, spend a lot of time on the water - with my windsurf board under my feet.
In the days that followed, we cruised up and down the coast, discovering breathtaking sandy beaches, tropical rainforest, perfect shallow-water lagoons, impressive waves and, above all, plenty of wind. The best time for a trip to this French corner of the world for us windsurfers is between November and May, when the trade winds blow most consistently in this region. Even though Guadeloupe, like almost all Caribbean destinations, is not one of the strongest wind areas, you can expect winds of more than four forces on around 80 per cent of days at the right time of year.
Guadeloupe consists of two main islands, called "Grande-Terre" and "Basse-Terre", which are connected by a bridge. The outline of Guadeloupe resembles a gigantic butterfly, which is why it is also called "L'ile Pappillon", Butterfly Island.
Covering an area of 588 square kilometres, Grand-Terre consists of low hills where mainly sugar cane is grown, the raw material for the island's most important export: rum. A considerable proportion of the rum produced presumably remains in the country and seems to serve the inhabitants almost as a staple food, as it is drunk in large quantities and on almost every occasion.
The western part of Guadeloupe, Basse-Terre, is rugged, consists of dense rainforest and is criss-crossed by the volcanic massif "La Soufrière", which is up to 1470 metres high. There are countless places worth seeing here - the hot springs, the Carbet waterfalls and numerous hiking tours make the hearts of every adventure holidaymaker beat faster.
"Gwada", as the locals affectionately call their island, is therefore not only impressive because of its windsurfing, SUP and surfing opportunities, but above all because of its alternatives for non-surfing company.
And even if Guadeloupe, with its five-star resorts and luxurious apartment complexes, may seem a little elitist at first glance, there are also cheaper and often no less dreamy alternatives.
Travelling & material transport:
There are almost daily flights to Pointe-a-Pitre with Air France, Corsair or Air Caraibe. You can find tickets from Paris from 500 euros. There are connecting flights to Paris from Germany, which means that the bottom line ticket price is around 800-1200 euros. Equipment can be rented at the main spots such as St. Anne, but you shouldn't expect perfectly equipped, large centres like those in Europe. If you want to be mobile locally and plan trips to the scattered wave spots, you will need your own equipment. The airlines charge 55 euros/way for the transport of equipment on "domestic flights" from Paris, but for a maximum of 23 kilos per bag.
Wind, weather & neoprene recommendation:
The climate in Guadeloupe is tropically hot all year round. Temperatures hardly change throughout the year and fluctuate between an average of 31 degrees (July/August) and 28 degrees in the winter months. The winter, which is interesting for windsurfers, is well tolerable due to the constant trade winds, and the fact that the water is "only" around 25 degrees can be tolerated. As a rule, you surf here in board shorts, so you don't need to pack anything more than a pair of shorts. Lycra and good sun protection are particularly important for water sports enthusiasts. If you want to go out to the wave spots, you should have shoes in your luggage, the reefs are sharp and you often don't have to look for sea urchins with a magnifying glass. Guadeloupe is generally considered a year-round destination, but between May and October it gets increasingly hot and humid and the wind system often stops. Between August and the end of October, hurricanes repeatedly sweep across the region. In winter, the north-east trade wind blows extremely consistently on an average of 80 per cent of the days at over four Bft. The wind force usually remains moderate between twelve and 25 knots, Guadeloupe is not a spot for small sails. If you want to hit the wave spots, you should therefore have enough volume and at least a 5.3 metre sail in your luggage.
Waves:
Wave specialists get their money's worth especially with northerly swells, which are produced by storms in the North Atlantic during the winter months. When there is no swell, however, the constant trade wind almost always brings a few wind waves from an easterly direction, which break surfably on the reefs of the south coast and make Guadeloupe one of the best wave destinations in the Caribbean. Precise swell forecasts are provided by
www.magicseaweed.com
Accommodation & car hire:
Guadeloupe is not a bargain, with a little effort you can find on platforms like airbnb.com but apartments and rooms in all price ranges. The best place to stay is in the north-eastern part of Grand-Terre, between Le Moule, St. François and St. Anne, as the best windsurfing spots are in the immediate vicinity.
Local tips for living close to the spot:
St Anne: www.malueva.net
St François: www.villa-location-guadeloupe.com & www.sunsetsurfcamp.com
Good to know:
Mosquitoes are an issue. A net over the bed and mosquito sprays are money well spent, also due to individual cases of the Zika virus. Malaria prophylaxis, on the other hand, is not necessary. Sharp reefs and sometimes sea urchins can spoil the fun, so be sure to remove stings immediately, otherwise there is a risk of infection!
Shops:
If you want to surf the island's wave spots, you should have UV-curing board repair etc. in your luggage, but in an emergency you can get a replacement in:
Sainte Anne:
Windy Sails: Facebook: "Windy Sails Voilerie"
Looka Surf: www.l ookasurf.pagesperso-orange.fr/
Paul Thong Boardrepair: Bd Georges Mandel;
Phone: +590 88 11 90
Le Gossier:
Mister Good Surf: Facebook: "MGS Surf Shop Guadeloupe"
Equipment hire/centre:
Sainte AnneLa Freestyle School ( www.windsurfguadeloupe.net )
St FrançoisClub Nautique ( www.station-nautique.com/acteur/club-nautique-de-saint-francois-act-2164 )
Petit Bourg (Basse-Terre): Centre Nautique Voile et Loisirs ( www.guadeloupe.fr/planche-a-voile )
Restaurant tips:
The "Kote Sud" restaurant (Rue de la Caravel) on the Club Med beach is one of the best on the island. Chez Jeannot" in St. François serves sandwiches and local food at fair prices.
Spots
1) St François
The St. François lagoon is one of the most beautiful in Guadeloupe. The bay is located to the east of the small harbour entrance and offers plenty of space to heat up with a few friends over the crystal-clear and, apart from a few chops, mirror-smooth water. The bay is surrounded by coconut palms and there is a small bar on the main beach, which is also popular with swimmers, where you can refuel during surf breaks. With a southerly swell or a larger wind wave from the east, a moderate and fairly harmless wave (1-1.5 metres) breaks on the outer reef.
(1-1.5 metres), which works particularly well at high tide and is ideal for wave beginners. This makes St. François the perfect combination spot for different skill levels and disciplines.
2) St Anne/Bois Jolan
The small town of St. Anne is located on a large bay, which offers surfing conditions for all skill levels and is also recommended as a combination spot for flat water and wave fans. A little to the west of the sugar cane town of just under 20,000 inhabitants, you will find a large and partially shallow lagoon that offers perfect conditions for freeride, freestyle and slalom pilots. The local surf centre "La Freestyle School" also rents out surf equipment and offers various surf courses. In the high season, there are also many kiters here and the beach is well frequented.
3) St Anne/Calif
Calif is a wave that breaks slightly upwind of the surf station. The wind blows diagonally onshore from the left at the reef, the wave usually only gives a turn to leeward and is therefore better suited for backside wave rides. To get the spot going, a little wind wave from the east or south-east is required, wave height and power are usually moderate and not only suitable for surf cracks. Caution is only required in front of the reef, which is quite shallow in places.
4) St Anne/La Digue
A little further downwind from Calif, at the end of the reef, the wave turns in a little better, so that the wind angle fits better and blows more side- to slightly side-offshore here. The wave is also longer here than in Calif. At the La Digue spot directly in front of the "Club Med" and its beautiful palm beach, three to four turns to leeward can regularly be slotted into clean wave faces. The wave is powerful, but almost never gets bigger than 1.5 metres, so that wave beginners and cracks alike can have fun here. The only disadvantage is that it often gets crowded during the season. You can start directly from Club Med, or you can drop down a little from the lagoon.
5) La Communale
"La Communale" is located a few minutes west of St Anne. The wave is rather short, but breaks powerfully and cleanly, making it suitable for experienced surfers. Locals such as Antoine Martin and Camille Juban train their aerials and other wave manoeuvres here in sideoffshore winds. The wave runs even with little swell and can reach mast-high on good days. On the plus side: in the event of a crash, the equipment usually ends up in the safe channel.
6) Le Moule/Lagune
Le Moule (population 23,000) is one of the largest municipalities in Guadeloupe and is located in the north-eastern part of Grande-Terre. The breathtaking beach of Le Moule is protected by a reef and has partially shallow water - ideal for intermediates and shallow water fans who can hone their manoeuvres in an oversized bathtub. The spot also operates in a large wind window from NNE to SE. Only a few sea urchins can spoil the fun. A stone's throw away, on the offshore reef, a great wave breaks, which also makes Le Moule a real combination tip for flat water and surf.
7) Le Moule/Les Alizees
Les Alizees is also called "Mini Hookipa" by the locals. Similar to Maui, the wind here blows from the right and the waves can reach a height of up to four metres, usually one to two metres. The spot is located around 150 metres from the beach on an outer reef and can be reached via a narrow channel marked by two flags. Riding skills are a prerequisite here, as the current is not to be sneezed at and the reef is sharp and full of sea urchins. The wave is also quite powerful. Especially after six o'clock in the evening, the wind can suddenly switch off here, which can lead to an extended swim across the lagoon. While the lagoon is also easily navigable in a north-easterly wind, Les Alizees needs an easterly (sideshore) to east-south-easterly (slightly side-offshore) wind.
8) Port Louis
The spot is located in the northern part of the island and is by far the best wave in Guadeloupe with a decent north swell. The wind should come from the N-NE and be quite strong at 15-20 knots so that you can get back to the starting point after the long wave rides. The wave runs best with a wave direction from the north-east, a period of at least twelve seconds and a height of two metres. Unfortunately, the spot only works a few days a year, but if everything is right, you can pull one turn after another into the mirror-smooth wall of water with wind from the right. Otherwise, the spot is also the first choice for surfing without a sail. The spot is not far north of Port Louis, and you can easily launch from a shallow lagoon. Watch out for the shallow coral, especially at low tide! The reef has several small channels through which you can reach the outer reef. Overall: "For cracks only" - shallow reef, fast waves and only light wind in the shore area are not everyone's cup of tea.
9) Vieux Fort
Vieux Fort is located at the southern point of Basse-Terre, opposite the island of "Les Saintes". The spot is therefore also known as the "channel". The wind is amplified here according to the typical chapel effect, which means that the spot works almost every day and is therefore the windiest in the whole of Guadeloupe. The approximately 1.5-hour journey from St Anne is particularly worthwhile if the wind is not strong enough at the other spots on Grand-Terre. The entrance is located directly at a lighthouse, where a small staircase leads down to the water. Even if the conditions on the water - constant wind and chop suitable for jumping - are uncomplicated, a little caution is required: If you break your equipment here and can't get back to the starting point, be prepared for a long journey that ends in Mexico. In the high season, however, you are usually not alone here. The spot is particularly suitable for slalom, freeride and freestyle cracks with an average wind of 20-30 knots and moderate choppy waves.
10) Grande Anse
Around ten kilometres east of Vieux Fort, near Trois Riviere, lies Grande-Anse. Here, too, the trade winds are noticeably stronger than at the spots on Grand-Terre, with 20 to 25 knots blowing regularly. The D6 coastal road leads directly past the black dream beach, which serves as an access point. The easterly wind blows side- to sideonshore from the left, often with bump & jump conditions and a few chops for jumping. With a strong easterly wind or swell from the south-east, there is even some surf and sometimes a moderate shorebreak, which then requires some experience. On the plus side, you can surf more safely here than in Vieux Fort, despite similarly strong winds, as drifting is less of an issue here.
11) Battery
The Batterie spot is slightly upwind of Grande-Anse, in front of the small headland jutting out into the sea. The wind here also comes from the left and is usually strengthened by one or two wind forces by the neighbouring mountains. The wave at the headland breaks relatively close to the shore on small round stones and is usually one to two metres high, more than three metres is rather rare. However, riding mistakes are quickly penalised with a visit to the rocks. This wave spot is therefore also more suitable for experienced surfers. However, they can then enjoy clean sideshore conditions and a wave that really packs a punch.
