Text: Philip Mackenbrock
Nobody had warned us about the speed bumps. Actually, that’s not quite true. Someone probably did. But nothing really prepares you for the journey from Puerto Plata Airport to Cabarete – a route that lies somewhere between organised chaos and a complete breakdown of road traffic regulations. Lanes are more of a suggestion. Headlights are optional at night, and when fitted, they’re preferably used on full beam. Speed bumps the size of small hills appear without warning, causing trouble for hire cars and windsurfing bags alike. ‘If it works, I’ll drive’ seems to be the prevailing philosophy, applied with equal conviction to overtaking, merging onto the motorway and general road use.
Maciek Rutkowski, who’s been windsurfing on pretty much every continent and has experienced more chaotic situations than most, summed it up best: “If you don’t like music, don’t go there. If you’re scared of crazy traffic, stay at home. If you don’t like the sound of car horns, go to Norway.” He enjoyed it, by the way.
What Cabarete actually is
Cabarete is a small coastal town in the north-west of the Dominican Republic, which has quietly been taking the Caribbean water sports market by storm since the 1980s. It began as a windsurfing destination – trade winds, warm water, a reef break within sight of the beach – and has gradually expanded to include everything else. Kitesurfers arrived. Then stand-up paddlers. Then wingfoilers. Today, it’s a place where you can watch a ten-year-old on a foil, a world-class freestyler pulling off double-air culos, a downwind parawinger following the horizon far out at sea, and a beginner on a training board all at the same time – all sharing the same bay without getting in each other’s way.
For a while, however, Cabarete dropped out of the conversation. The place that had been on every windsurfer’s lips in the 1980s and 1990s quietly faded into obscurity. Its reputation took a turn for the worse. Stories of cheap all-inclusive tourism, alcohol and prostitution – the usual mix that destroys the authenticity of a destination in the eyes of the very people who had originally made it worthwhile. Standing here now, with a good cup of coffee in hand, facing the 27-degree lagoon dotted with white-capped waves, it’s really hard to believe that was the whole story. In fact, we wouldn’t be surprised if some clever surfer had simply made the whole thing up back then, just to keep the line-ups clear and have the 300 windy days a year all to himself. If that’s the case: well done. But we get the feeling the secret has been outed. Cabarete has tidied itself up, evolved and built something new, without losing the energy that originally made the place so interesting.
“Cabarete has tidied itself up and moved forward – without losing its authentic character.”
What it isn’t is too polished. Cabarete lives by Caribbean time, thrives on Dominican energy and boasts a truly impressive selection of good food for a town of its size. It doesn’t have that artificial resort atmosphere that makes other Caribbean destinations feel like theme parks. It’s authentic, a bit rough around the edges, and significantly cheaper than anywhere further south in the region. For a European windsurfer, accustomed to cold water, unpredictable winds and wetsuits, the appeal is almost embarrassingly obvious.
The wind, the water, the spots
The Atlantic trade winds blow in on the northern coast of the Dominican Republic with a reliability that moves meteorologists to tears. Predominantly from the east, side- to side-onshore, with around 250 to 300 windy days a year. In February – when we were there – the trade winds had already settled in, picking up daily as the afternoon wore on and providing consistent conditions of 15 to 25 knots with flat to slightly choppy water inside the reef, making freeride effortless and freestyle spectacular. We’d brought wetsuits with us. We didn’t wear them. Unless, that is, I made myself unpopular and persuaded our team to put the suits on for the photos.
Cabarete’s main bay is where it all happens. Inside the reef, the conditions are moderate. The waves build up slowly the closer you get to the reef and break cleanly there – though rarely with great force. They shape up well for a turn or two and, on stronger days, offer decent ramps for jumping. Fifteen minutes’ drive from the main bay lies La Boca – the mouth of a tropical lagoon where a river flows into the sea. On days with stronger winds, this is a flat-water paradise: as smooth as glass, even, with no surf. The conditions here are nothing short of ideal for flat-water freestyle and practising freeride manoeuvres – the sort of session where you can practise the same move or jibe twenty times without any distractions. The scenery is also impressive: green hills, turquoise water, and palm trees that behave exactly as palm trees should.
Team rider Vinni Martins, who usually rates locations against fairly demanding standards, described the stretch of water directly in front of the Ecolodge in Perla Marina in similar terms and added something that La Boca cannot offer: “We had a bit of a north-westerly swell, which brought in some good waves and gave me my best session of the trip right there.”
And then there’s Encuentro, just a short walk along a beach path from the main beach. This is the most famous surfing spot in the Dominican Republic. There are several peaks here and consistent swell – not only suitable for surfing, but also for windsurfing in the waves when the conditions are right. Less touristy infrastructure, more locals, a completely different atmosphere. A session at Encuentro – or even several – is well worth it if only for the change of scenery. It’s a spot where everyone can enjoy surfing. You’ll find longboard waves, fun waves for children and beginners, and on good days, proper conditions for professional surfers too. Chepe from the Pauhana Surf School, which offers board hire, is a great person to speak to on Encuentro Beach to help plan your surfing experience.
Punta Rucia: A day trip that’s well worth the long drive
If you ask a local, Punta Rucia is an hour’s drive west along the coast. If you ask Google Maps, it’s two hours. It took us two and a half. It’s definitely worth it. From Punta Rucia, a short boat ride takes you to Cayo Arena – also known as ‘Paradise Island’, although that name doesn’t quite do the place justice. It’s a tiny sandbank situated on a coral reef in the middle of the sea, barely rising above the water’s surface. The visibility in the surrounding water is exceptionally good. The underwater world on the reef below is exactly the sort of thing you’d pay a lot of money to see elsewhere. Yentel described it as one of the coolest windsurfing adventures he’s ever experienced: “A twenty-minute boat ride to a white sandy island in the middle of nowhere.” Hire a car. Drive there.
Wellness – more than just a side note
As well as its reputation as a water sports destination, Cabarete has developed a thriving wellness scene. Yoga classes, physiotherapists, ceremonial experiences – the facilities are in place and more easily accessible than one might expect in a town of this size.
Our team rider Greta Marchegger – who exudes an energy that the rest of the team can only admire from a safe distance – went one step further and visited the ‘Cabarete Gym’, a newly opened centre run by Yasmina, which offers personalised health coaching and fitness programmes. Greta took part in a women-only session and came back clearly thrilled. This is useful information for anyone wishing to combine fitness and recovery activities with surfing whilst on location
The food, which deserves a section of its own
In this respect, Cabarete exceeds all expectations in a low-key way. The food is consistently very good – and the options range from local food trucks to restaurants with table service. ‘Vagamundo Coffee & Waffles’ became the team’s regular morning meeting place within 24 hours of our arrival and remained so for the rest of the trip. A great menu, brilliant coffee, and quick enough that you’re not still waiting for your breakfast when the wind picks up. A special note to anyone with a gluten intolerance: Maciek Rutkowski arrived with low expectations and a private emergency supply of Polish bread – just in case. The gluten-free toast and waffles were so good that the Polish bread never even came out of the bag.
If you’re looking for an even more laid-back experience, the Honey Coffee Company is the place for you – a family-run café with better coffee than you’d expect, and a menu centred on muesli bowls and ‘Vulcano’ – which the team unanimously described as the best sandwiches of the trip. The family came here via Australia and Papua New Guinea. Don’t ask. Just go there.
The “Smashy Cabarete” serves smash burgers with a level of expertise that’s unusual for a beachside spot. It became a place we found ourselves returning to time and again on the spur of the moment. By our second visit, the woman behind the counter already remembered each team member’s ordering preferences – which either speaks to her professional excellence or to the fact that we ordered with unsettling predictability.
When it comes to seafood, ‘Coconuts’ on Encuentro Beach serves up excellent fish in an atmosphere that makes it hard to leave in a hurry. And then there are the food trucks along the main road. Don’t miss them.
Conclusion
Cabarete needs no special introduction. Steady trade winds, warm water, a bay that’s suitable for everyone – from beginners to pros – good food that’s affordable by Caribbean standards, and an authentic local atmosphere that hasn’t been overshadowed by a resort-style aesthetic.
It’s also worth looking beyond the main bay. Hire a car. Drive to Punta Rucia. Grab a bite to eat from the food trucks. Stay an extra day. The Dominican Republic isn’t just a place for water sports – it’s a destination in its own right. The north coast in particular offers a well-rounded experience that’s becoming increasingly hard to find in places that have learnt to capitalise on their appeal.
Travel information: Cabarete, Dominican Republic
- Getting here: Puerto Plata (POP) – closer to Cabarete than Santo Domingo
- Best time to visit: February–October for steady trade winds. December–January for stronger, gustier conditions
- Surf spots: The team were guests at Vela Watersports – the centre exclusively stocks NeilPryde / JP-Australia
- Recommended accommodation: Cabarete Ecolodge (adventure) or Millennium Cabarete (comfort & convenience)
- Food: Vagamundo, Honey Coffee Company, Smashy, Coconuts at Encuentro, food trucks, VoyVoy at Vela (bar, restaurant & nightlife)
- Day trip: Cayo Arena / Paradise Island via Punta Rucia – a full-day trip; every minute of the journey is well worth it
- Transport: Hire a car or use Vela Watersports’ reliable taxi service. Essential if you want to see more than just the main bay