Exhausted, I put my equipment down in front of the blue container above Pitschi's beach bar. "Föhr - Frisian Caribbean" is written on it in large letters. Even though I would sometimes like to change the slogan to "Föhr - horizontal rain" with a spray can after a cold and wet autumn session, the original slogan describes today's surfing day perfectly: constant pressure in the 4.4, mirror-smooth water, postcard skies against a backdrop almost like in a Raffaello commercial. And all this just a few strokes upwind from the Wyker beach promenade.
While I peel myself out of my wetsuit in front of the container, my children dig around in the water playground opposite. My partner and I swap surfing equipment for childcare on the fly. A quick cold drink for me and an ice cream for the little ones - there's a touch of perfection in the air.
Compact and familiar
Of course, far away from the trade winds, a lot has to come together for Caribbean North Sea surfing. But even when you're not at your best, days on Föhr's waters are always at least one thing: cosy and familiar. The compact dimensions of the island ensure short distances and condense the windsurfing action to just a few spots. Like-minded people can be quickly identified and socialised with.
In addition to this familiarity, it is probably also the all-round carefree surfing package that turns many windsurfing holidaymakers into regular guests. Parking close to the beach - no problem on Föhr. The conditions are just as uncomplicated as going to the water: From shallow beginner spots and bump-and-jump conditions to smooth speed channels, everything is there and only a few minutes' drive apart, if not combined in one spot. There is plenty of space on the water and you can switch from sail to kite or cat without having to change spots. The distances to the nearest beach bar, toilet or nearby children's playground are also short.
You only have to do without surf spots on Föhr. Larger waves - like large off-road vehicles - are successfully intercepted by Sylt. Those who like to have both around them will probably feel more comfortable on the neighbouring island. Amrum also offers the one or other wave ride that Föhr is denied. Although there are more significant differences to consider between the three islands. When asked about the differences between Amrum, Sylt and Föhr, a Föhr resident once replied: Amrum offers pure nature, Sylt is no longer an island anyway because of the railway embankment, and Föhr is Bullerbü.
Behind the dunes lies a surfing centre that Astrid Lindgren couldn't have designed any better."
Frisian Bullerbü
The word "Bullerbü" in particular resonated with me for a long time, as it complements the Caribbean slogan decisively: if you leave the busy beaches in Wyk or the cafés lined with parked e-bikes in Nieblum behind you, you will find a tranquil little street, a quiet beach, paddocks and rapeseed fields, dunes and vastness at any time on Föhr.
The same applies to the surf spots. While you can almost order your Aperol Spritz from your board on the Wyker surf beaches, you can get pretty close to the perfect Bullerbü surfing experience in Nieblum. The atmosphere at the spot is relaxed, the beach is spacious and unspoilt. Behind the dunes is a surf centre that Astrid Lindgren couldn't have designed any better.
And if even that is too much hustle and bustle for you, you will find what you are looking for in maximum surfing seclusion in the tidal creeks. At low tide, the sandbanks off Utersum, Hedehusum and Wyk are transformed into mirror-smooth speed slopes. Whether you use the wrinkle-free water surface to heat up or to learn new manoeuvres depends on the individual. Gliding over the water in the middle of the sandbank belts with a view of Amrum or Föhr, on the other hand, should make all surfers' hearts beat faster - whether they are freeriders, freestylers, Caribbean or Bullerbü fans.
Area information Föhr
Journey
The W.D.R. ferries connect Wyk and Dagebüll every hour during the high season. Vehicle transport should be booked in advance, especially at weekends. The crossing takes around 45 minutes, depending on the tide. A passenger ticket for a return journey currently costs 16.50 euros, the vehicle prices depend on the length (approx. 100 euros for a longer estate car). The route to the spots is very windsurfing-friendly, as there is rarely a parking fee at the car parks near the beach. There is also usually plenty of space. If you want to park your car in Wyk, you will find free parking spaces near the harbour (approx. 400 metres into town).
Living & Camping
There are numerous holiday flats. The best-known holiday rental is Weber. You can also find a lot via Airbnb or classified ads. Everyone who lives here either rents out accommodation themselves or at least knows someone who does. This makes it easy to make direct contact with local landlords - at least for your next holiday. It is advisable to book early in the high season. The motorhome pitch in Utersum is well-maintained, affordable and close to the beach. However, the pitches are fully booked early in the high season - be sure to book well in advance.
Surf schools and shops
With the three surf centres Windsurfing Föhr, Schapers and the Nieblum water sports school, the island is well positioned in terms of training and rental. There is a shop in Wyk directly on the beach promenade: Sup-Island stocks windsurfing equipment and also offers SUP and wing courses. There is also a great programme for children. Parents can leave their little ones in the care of a ski course.
Wind, weather and neoprene
Depending on the time of year and weather conditions, you have to be prepared for everything in terms of neoprene. The best chances of windsurfing in a shorty are at the height of summer in high-pressure weather conditions with easterly winds and sunshine. It should also be noted that long, strong easterly wind phases push the water to the west and ensure lower tide levels.
In spring and autumn, low-pressure conditions with classic warm front-cold front draughts are more likely to be enjoyed with a long wetsuit and shoes, sometimes even with a bonnet.
North-westerly to northerly winds are strengthened in Utersum by a jet effect with Amrum. The sun can also provide light thermals (from April, May), which can add five to seven knots to the predicted basic wind.
In any case, the tidal currents on Föhr should be observed."
Dangers
In any case, the currents on Föhr must be taken into account. If the current and wind are travelling in the same direction, this can significantly disrupt the fun of gliding - and it can also be dangerous. Roughly speaking, outgoing water on the south side of Föhr moves westwards and on the west side near Utersum it moves northwards. When the water rises, the directions are reversed. This should always be checked, not only because there are temporal shifts between the current and the tide: Either during a nice chat at the local surfing centres or via the current charts of the North Sea on bsh.de. You should definitely find out about the oyster belts lurking in and around Utersum - from locals on the beach or at the kite centre in Utersum.
Alternative programme
Föhr offers a varied programme: from cycle tours to visits to the Frisian Museum, the Museum of West Coast Art, the wave pool, the beautifully situated beach saunas or the fish market. The informative Bimmelbahn train ride or day trips to Amrum, Sylt and the Halligen islands also offer variety. Beach volleyball fans also get their money's worth on the beaches between Mittelbrücke and Pitschi's, which are very busy in summer. Less frequented is the beach at Goting - on a small cliff. The beaches near Utersum are a tip for enjoying the sun setting behind Amrum.
The best windsurfing spots on Föhr
Spots with surf station
1st Windsurfing Föhr / Pitschi's
54.6788, 8.5605
The beach bar Pitschi's, which is right next to the Windsurfing Föhr centre, has established itself as the spot name. The spot dries out in a time window of two hours before and after low tide. Even then, however, it is surfable if you walk out on the sandbank towards the fairway - a five-minute walk over hard sand. If the sandbank area near the beach is full, it offers relaxed shallow water conditions in almost all wind directions that are not blowing offshore. The lower the water level, the wider the shallow area and the smaller the chop. Even when it gets crowded on land in summer, the spot offers plenty of opportunities to spread out to leeward and windward. In strong winds from the west and east, a small but steep Wadden Sea wave breaks over the offshore sandbank belt. In onshore winds, the raised promenade close to the shore can cause windward jamming. Long rides to the Halligen islands off Langeneß are possible and - with appropriate protection from fellow surfers - are actually a must for advanced freeriders. The current should not run in the direction of the wind, but going upwind in the opposite direction is child's play. The surf centre offers instruction, equipment storage and hire. Overall, it is the spot with the most comprehensive infrastructure. The restaurant of the same name as well as a crêpes stand, a fish stand and a burger stand are located directly around the spot. It is also not far to the Sydbar - more upmarket food in the first row. There are toilets on the lawn in front of the water playground, which is highly recommended for children. You can park at the water playground or on the promenade. Showers, trampoline park and beach chair hire round off the programme.
2. Schapers
54.6792, 8.5483
Another surf station not far from Pitschi's. The surfing conditions are similar, only the way to the fairway is further, but the standing area is slightly larger and the current is less strong. There is also a connection to the catering scene here. You can park at the end of the beach road for an affordable fee.
3. Nieblum
54.6805, 8.4824
As one of the first water sports schools in the country, it is a centre with a lot of tradition, charm and regular guests. The spot is not surfable for about one to two hours before and after low tide. At all other times, however, there is a huge standing area that is so shallow that even three centimetres of water under the fin is enough to "plan" with. Unlike in Wyk, the path across the dry sandbank area to the fairway is too far. However, the spot is more spacious and less dependent on windward winds. Slightly northerly and therefore offshore wind directions also get through better here than in Wyk due to the flatter hinterland. Depending on the water level, there is everything from mini chop to Lake Garda swell. Tip for loop learners: From six Beaufort from the west-north-west and opposite currents, ideal frontal loop waves are created on the way out. Overall, however, the current in Nieblum is less significant than at the other spots. If you really want to get into the water at the wrong time (current in the direction of the wind), this is the best place to try.
The well-stocked centre offers a large selection of Sailloft sails, as well as showers, toilets and a large car park, which gets particularly full on Ascension Day: This is when the Hückstädt family organises the traditional three-day regatta for everyone, which includes an hour regatta, a slalom race and a cat race on the programme. The focus is on having fun, and participants are allowed to camp in the car park during the event. But there is also plenty of socialising outside of this week: every Friday there is an open barbecue. A special feature of the centre is the possibility of sit-kiting: centre operator "Hücki" teaches paraplegics how to kitesurf.
4. Utersum
54.7091, 8.3940
The spot is located in front of the kite centre, which only offers limited parking on the road. The parking situation is much more relaxed at the Trii Eilun restaurant or at the playground 300 metres further south. However, from June to August at least, you will have to make a small diversions around the swimmers' zone to get into the water. However, the conditions at the spot are sometimes worth it: in westerly winds and at low tide, a perfect shallow water channel is created directly on the beach, as the offshore sandbank blocks all waves over a length of around 500 metres. However, many kitesurfers are aware of this during the high season, so it can get crowded - by Föhr standards. Nevertheless, the atmosphere is friendly and the local kitesurfers are careful and sociable.
In northerly and southerly winds, a great, albeit small, shallow-water lagoon is also created here between the land, sandbank and oyster belt. However, the dangers of oysters should not be underestimated. Be sure to check the spot at low tide and obtain information at the centre about where the oysters are lurking. It can be particularly dangerous if the oyster belt is so covered about an hour before and after low tide that it is not visible but also not navigable. It becomes completely unproblematic at high tide. It is then possible to sail in all directions, and the route to Amrum in particular should be attempted. Not only because it is closer than you think, but also because there are some nice shallow water lagoons hidden along the way.
Overall the most unspoilt spot, beautifully nestled between Amrum and Sylt and with fantastic sunset potential. However, it also has less infrastructure and is heavily exposed to currents. When the wind blows against the current, fine ramps form here too - sometimes even on the way to the shore.
Sandbank spots
All sandbank spots work at low tide (around one and a half hours before and after the tide changes). Special care must be taken: even if the wind blows onshore back to Föhr from all the spots described in the wind directions mentioned, the beaches are still several hundred metres away from the sandbanks. So please only go out if you feel safe. It is best never to go on a session alone, carry out the obligatory equipment check and, if necessary, pack a mobile phone or a flare gun. Then nothing stands in the way of sandbank fun.
5. Wyk harbour
54.6895, 8.5994
At low tide, a fantastic sandbank for easterly wind directions is created upwind from the harbour in the direction of Dagebüll. Shimmering white sand stretching for kilometres with a view of the harbour allows for the longest speed strokes on the island. Föhrers with motor or sailing boat licences also head for the sandbank to barbecue and chill because it is simply Caribbean in its beauty. You can start at Pitschi's or at the lighthouse. The trip to the sandbank is long but worthwhile. However, the fairway in front of the harbour must be crossed very carefully, only with enough pressure in the sail and with sufficient height to leeward.
6. Prickenweg off Amrum
54.6888, 8.3946
The wind window for things to go well here is small, but on the other hand it can be picked up at least briefly with almost every passing low. Then the sandbank south of the spa clinic in Utersum offers great speed potential. You can start at the Utersum surf spot or at the end of the Sandscheerweg not far from the clinic. From there, depending on the tide, it is around 500 metres to the entrance to the Priel and two to three strokes upwind to the longed-for sandbank. If you start in Utersum, you can make it to the sandbank in one long stroke, but you have to keep an eye on the oyster belt, which can be delimited by a buoy and visibly darker water colours. You should not continue surfing at the southern bend of the sandbank - this is where the seal sandbank is located.
7. South Priel off Amrum
54.6939, 8.3869
In southerly wind directions, the South Priel is perpendicular to the Prickenweg and directly facing Amrum. The water edge does not drop quite as steeply as at the other spots, so it is better to keep a little more distance here. The beach car park next to the spa clinic is recommended as a starting point in southerly winds, from where you can usually reach the sandbank in one go.
8. Nordmarsch-Langeneß
54.6575, 8.5147
Starting from Pitschi's, you have to cross out a good distance, which becomes easier the more easterly the south-easterly wind blows. A south-southeasterly wind creates an endless speed strip at the western tip of the Halligen not far from Mayenswarf, which you can follow all the way to Amrum harbour. The sandbank furthest away from Föhr. In the worst case scenario, however, it is possible to walk to the Halligen if the material breaks.
