Time travelIsland hopping by bike across the East Frisian Islands

Dennis Müller

 · 22.06.2025

7 in one go: Island Hopping East Frisian Islands with Dennis Müller
Photo: Dennis Gross
Island hopping is synonymous with super-rich business people who fly to the neighbouring island in a helicopter for a drink. But island hopping can also be interpreted in a completely different way, less decadent, but with many more unforgettable experiences. Dennis Müller - who otherwise enjoys travelling the world - explored the microcosm of the East Frisian Islands with his girlfriend Katrin by bike, tent and surf equipment in 2021 - a micro-adventure of the finest kind across seven islands. As a journey through time, we show you his report of the road trip by bike again here!

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Australia, South Africa, Chile, Tarifa, Brittany, Lake Garda - all dream spots that every water sports enthusiast raves about. But how many of you have Wangerooge, Langeoog or Borkum on your radar? Can you really windsurf there? I really wanted to find out for myself. Is Norderney the best windsurfing spot of the seven East Frisian Islands? Did I choose the right home spot with the best conditions eight years ago? What I can already tell you is that each of the seven East Frisian Islands is worth a trip. Even without clocking up four-digit kilometres on the speedometer or even getting on a plane, you can find ideal windsurfing conditions on the local North Sea. Especially the relaxation factor right from the ferry - for a windsurfing trip with a partner or the whole family - is a great feel-good experience.

I've been living on Norderney with my girlfriend for eight years now. We usually choose special destinations on other continents. Our plan was to visit two other East Frisian islands every year. Unfortunately, we only made it to the neighbouring island of Juist. The attraction was always greater to use the few holiday days for special destinations. But the closest spots are often particularly beautiful and I can recommend everyone to explore their immediate surroundings.

Surf trip without a van and CO₂-neutral

I've had the idea of exploring all seven East Frisian Islands for some time. This August, the project fitted perfectly into our schedule. Our challenge was to start the trip without our van and get to our destination as CO₂-neutral as possible using our own leg power. Optimally equipped with Maxx Fatbikes and reacha surf trailers for the beach and minimal camping equipment such as a throw tent, self-inflating mattresses, sustainable Voited sleeping blankets, a cooker and a mini cool bag, we set off on our micro-adventure. This allowed us maximum flexibility and self-sufficient overnight stays. The biggest challenge was choosing the right materials for 15 days. After the weather forecast with light winds and a forecast of 15 to 18 knots from the north-west, I decided to be on the safe side and opted for my large foil set-up and freestyler with 5.0 and 5.7 square metres to be prepared for all conditions. During the trip, I realised that I was on the North Sea and not the Baltic Sea. So you never stop learning when it comes to choosing equipment!

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surf/image_1cb6d4473ef1d184ac69ddbddb1c3476Photo: surf

Baltrum

Our minimal equipment surprisingly weighed in at 120 kilograms when packed for the test. We started our island-hopping tour from the island of Norderney with the load, our luggage well distributed on two bike trailers. The light westerly wind carried us from the harbour in Norddeich with a tailwind to Nessmersiel, where we took the ferry to our small neighbouring island of Baltrum. The captain steered the ship very close to the east side of Norderney, the shipwreck and the seals. It is quite an experience to observe Germany's largest free-living predator at close quarters. As soon as you sat on the ferry, you immediately felt relaxed - now the holiday can begin.

Our first destination on each island was a visit to the surf school and the locals to find out the best spots. At sunset and low tide, we were already overlooking an ideal shallow tide from the promenade, where numerous windsurfing beginners were cavorting in a light breeze. For two days, the North Sea showed its rare mirror-smooth face. From the stories of Ulli Mammen, who set up the surf school on Baltrum in 1979 alongside his teaching job, we learnt how varied the spot can be. He asked me an interesting question: "Why do you think the sand on Baltrum is so fine? A grain of sand from the eastern end of Norderney takes about seven years to reach the beach on Baltrum and becomes so fine during the long journey." With a fantastic sunset and live music, I was already dreaming in my head of a perfect flat water session at low tide and good North Sea conditions at high tide. So there's something for every surfer on the island.

Idyllic camping on the beachPhoto: Dennis GrossIdyllic camping on the beach

This gave us more time on our first island stop to explore the areas and the smallest of the East Frisian islands in terms of population. On the car-free islands, it feels as if time has stood still in some respects. Horses are still used here as a means of transport for people and goods. With our fatbikes, we were able to overcome every obstacle to the eastern end and catch a glimpse of the next island. The 18 metre high water tower on the dune is the most striking landmark of Langeoog that we could see. But first back to the mainland - just ten kilometres further on, you hop from Dornumersiel to the next island. Along the dyke, you follow wonderful cycle paths - past flocks of sheep. Only the many sheep gates slowed down our average speed. In contrast to a road trip, you sometimes have to plan a whole day for a short stretch, as the luggage and possible headwinds can be quite demanding on the legs.

Langeoog

The friendly staff of the ferry companies always welcome us with our excess baggage in slight shock. Sometimes I felt like I was at the airport counter. But with normal equipment, a board bag and an adjustable trailer, you can easily make it to any East Frisian island. We also liked Langeoog very much with its idyllic settlement character and beautiful gastronomic town centre. We visited the next windsurfing pioneer on the East Frisian coast - Walter Petersen. The Petersen family and their son Toni, who runs the surf courses in the summer months, gave us a warm welcome on their breakfast terrace and their surf hostel in the centre of the village.

After some insider information, the surf instructors and Toni finally wanted to show me their spot. We cycled straight to the spot on the north beach on our bikes, where one of the two surf school locations is located, the wave-rider area to the east of the sandbanks and the surf spot. We quickly set up our boards and sails and let off steam in the small breaking waves of the sandbanks and the beach break. The surf instructors then cycled straight on in their wetsuits to their windsurfing courses on the west beach. The route took us past the pastures of the Galloway cattle and the spot once again impressed me with its ideal flat water and training conditions. We rounded off the windy day with an evening session before sharing a meal and a beer at the Petersen house. The next day we grabbed our bikes and explored the east of the island. Passing the dairy - we recommend trying a soured milk with sea buckthorn - we were able to take another look at the next island.

Wangerooge

Fortunately, the westerly wind forecast developed into a big storm. Wangerooge local Stefan Kruse contacted us and sounded the alarm for great wave conditions. Spontaneously as we were drifting on our journey, we first crossed over to Wangerooge off the island of Spiekeroog. This time with only the small equipment in our luggage, we checked in at the Deutsche Bahn station in Harlesiel. Without the information and knowledge that we were in the next district, we were informed five minutes before the ship departed that a negative rapid test was mandatory for the crossing. Funnily enough, our luggage had already been loaded and an emergency solution had to be found. The only chance we had of getting to the island was to travel by plane at 5.40pm after our luggage. The airfield in the immediate vicinity was equipped with a test station. We quickly booked in and without further ado we were on the Cessna to Wangerooge.

It was fantastic to marvel at the islands from above. After six minutes, we were already at the station faster than our luggage. I didn't miss out on the wave session in the evening, which had almost been written off, and sliced some cutbacks into the perfect Wangeroog waves with Stefan. Two more fat wave days followed. The only question I asked myself was why the hell I hadn't taken a wave board with me. But I have to say, the Freestyler also cuts a fine figure in the waves and is super versatile. Only two or three locals and holidaymakers accompanied me on the next sessions. Stefan had the best view of the spot. Unfortunately, not on the water, but he was "allowed" to wistfully serve his guests at "Diggers" on the beach promenade.

On Wangerooge, you almost feel like you're in Gnaraloo in Australia or Wijk aan Zee - only without people."

I was super excited about the perfect wave conditions on Wangerooge and have to say that as a Norderney resident, I was a little envious of the conditions with a large wave gap on those days. The reason for this is that the Jade water runs so close to the island and the waves sort themselves out very well as a result, reported Andreas, the owner of the surf school and surf café directly at the spot. Imagine there are three perfect sideshore wave days forecast from the west and you're sharing the spot with two or three people. You almost feel like you're in Gnaraloo in Australia or in Wijk aan Zee - only without people.

Spiekeroog

Back on Spiekeroog, we let ourselves be infected by the island's relaxed atmosphere without surfing equipment. It has its very own rhythm and totally decelerated our tight island programme. The idyll of the ecological island enchanted us. The settlement has a very special charm. Spiekeroog is the perfect place for anyone who loves a spa holiday. Of course you can also surf here. For beginners in the Priel at low tide, the bump & jump conditions arise at high tide.

Borkum

We set off on the longest cycling stage from Neuharlingersiel westwards, stopping in Norddeich in the drizzle. Refreshed with a fish sandwich and dry clothes, we reached the Pilsum lighthouse after 75 kilometres at sunset via Greetsiel. Awakened by the sheep, we took a few photos of Otto Walke's flat from his "The Disaster Film" in the soft morning light. Once we arrived in Emden, we headed for the penultimate destination on our island-hopping tour - the island of Borkum. And here, too, we caught a perfect freestyle session in the tide-independent tidal inlet of the Nordstrand beach as the sun set. The deep reef is perfect for foiling, even in a small area.

The legendary lighthouse from the "Otto" filmsPhoto: Katrin BackerThe legendary lighthouse from the "Otto" films

Juist & Norderney

The return trip to Norddeich demanded everything from our thighs in a head-on northerly wind. With a cool, light shower from above, we narrowly missed the ferry to Juist to round off our adventure. I didn't want to accept that and we came up with a plan B on the bike. The north wind would be perfect for surfing from Norderney to Juist. So off we went on the ferry to Norderney's west beach. In the distance, you could already see a good spray between the islands and heavy surf off Juist. Now I was able to use all my windsurfing equipment again and decided in favour of my Patrik Slalom 115 and GunSails GS-R 7.7 sqm.

It's no longer a secret that Norderney is one of the most varied and challenging areas in Germany."

With a proof selfie with the Juister town centre in the background, I fought my way back through the Juister surf and reached my home island of Norderney. Kati took me in her arms, visibly relieved, because it's easy to lose sight of you in the wave valleys on the almost ten-kilometre route. To top it all off, the north wind blew through the whole night and gave me a great welcome session in the surf bay with my friends at my home spot. It's no longer a secret that Norderney is one of the most varied and challenging spots in Germany. Whether it's a session in the sheltered surf bay on the tidal flat side, laboratory freestyle conditions on the sandbank or a big wave session on the Januskopf in front of the surf café, there's something for everyone here. An island-hopping tour can be a real adventure, mission completed.

When island hopping, Dennis only managed a long haul from his adopted home of Norderney over to Juist.Photo: Valentin BöcklerWhen island hopping, Dennis only managed a long haul from his adopted home of Norderney over to Juist.

Info windsurfing bike tour East Frisian Islands

Our equipment: Maxx Fatbikes, ideal for the beach, reacha bike surf trailer, tent and camping equipment, rainproof bags and clothing

Norderney:

Baltrum:

Langeoog:

Spiekeroog:

Wangerooge:

Tip: To save on transport costs to the car-free islands, you can use the freighter in the morning to transport materials.


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