Workshop: Build your own surfboard – from computer design to your first turn on a wave in 40 hours

• Are you the sort of person who likes to build things yourself?
• Design on the computer using a template or from scratch
• From blank to finished board in six steps

Your own surfboard is always something special, and it becomes truly special when you’ve created it yourself – from the initial idea on the computer right through to the final touches with your own hands. A young female surfer has done just that and would like to share her experiences and reveal the key challenges along the way.

With computer-aided design and the opportunity for anyone to create modern CNC milling When it comes to the actual shaping process, the chances of building a decent board are greater today than they were 20 years ago.

At the end of the article, you’ll find six photo galleries covering almost every step, with descriptions, from placing your order to the finished board.

Is it possible to build a board – a SUP, a windsurf board or a surfboard – yourself? The answer is: “In principle, yes, but...” In principle, SUPs, surfboards and windsurf boards are very similar in construction; the materials required are actually quite straightforward and it’s not rocket science: A foam core, a laminate of glass and carbon fibre, all impregnated and bonded with resin, plus the fin boxes and other components such as a leash plug, for example.

Things get complicated when it comes to boards, which need to be lightweight yet capable of withstanding very high loads, just like windsurf boards. This is where sandwich laminates come into play, in which rigid foam sheets just a few millimetres thick are incorporated across the entire surface of the laminate. This is a complicated process that requires the use of vacuum technology – it’s a job for professionals. However, a wave SUP could also be built using exactly the same construction method described here.

Are you the sort of person who likes to build things yourself?

The answer actually lies in taking a look at your toolbox. Do you have a rotary sander or a decent random-orbit sander? A router, a Dremel or something similar? Above all, though, do you have patience and aren’t you put off by dust and dirt? If you can answer ‘yes’ to all these questions and have already used the tools more than once, things are looking pretty good. Because only then will the overall costs remain within reasonable limits, and you’ll probably have enough practical experience to get the job done.

For “Shape Rookie” Laura Duschek, a Mini Malibu was the perfect board for the project, and for good reason: “As a surfer, you actually always keep a board between 7'2'' and 7'4'', even if at some point you might like to have a smaller board as well. And that at least makes the effort worthwhile.”

A classic construction using epoxy laminate over PU. So that’s what we’ll go for. And, above all, with our own design. The design will be painted on, as will the blue rails. The laminate is completely clear.

Design on the computer using a template or from scratch

With a bit of research, you’ll soon come across the free programme "shape3D" and various suppliers who both sell all the materials and offer a board-milling service. Laura chose Seabase.eu in England – one of our friends had already placed a successful order there years ago.

You can design the shape from scratch using the free software – with all the finer details and including a 3D preview, just like the professional shapers – or you might want to start by looking for templates online. Existing shapes can then be customised as you wish within the software. For those who can’t be bothered, Seabase also offers a range of ready-made blanks for the most common surfboard shapes.

After a few evenings at the computer, the time had finally come. One last check – probably the 20th – and the shape file, along with a mile-long order list for resin, hardener, fibreglass and small parts, were ready. “SEND” – there’s no turning back now.
The complete package – comprising the blank, milling parts, plenty of epoxy laminating resin, plus high-quality glass fibre and fin boxes from Futurefins, along with various bits and bobs such as brushes, tape, mixing pots, stirring sticks and sandpaper comes to just under 490 euros including postage from England – with the assurance that only the best ingredients are used.

After about a week The delivery lorry pulled up. One large box – and one huge box. The total cost of the delivery came to around 50 euros (which seems very reasonable given the dimensions); the roughly 30 euros for the milling work seems like a real bargain by comparison. After all, it saves you the part of the job that creates the most dust – and no professional could probably sand as precisely as the CNC milling machine. First impression of the shaped “board”: brilliant! Although the milling marks are clearly visible, the concaves, V-shapes and edges – everything has been milled exactly as planned and delivered flawlessly.

From parcel to finished board in six steps

Phase 1: Designing the blank and preparatory work

Once the computer design is complete, the Shape file is sent to the milling machine at seabase.eu and then shipped from England almost straight to your living room. A neat Shape stand can be built from offcuts of wood and a handful of screws.

Phase 2: The finishing touches

In the second stage, the blank is finely sanded. The milling cutter has left its marks, but after a few hours of sanding with a sanding grid and sandpaper, the final shape emerges – including all the fine details and concave areas..

Stage 3: Positioning and milling the fin boxes

Fins are marked out, and the boxes are milled out

Stage 4: Gluing in the inserts (fin boxes, leash plug) and decorative elements

There are no limits to the design possibilities. Here, the rails and the underside are painted using a brush and acrylic paint.

Stage 5: The laminate!

Now we’re getting down to the nitty-gritty. Once the resin has been mixed, the clock is ticking. But with careful preparation and a clean cut of the glass fabric, it can be done. The tight radii at the tail and nose are the tricky bits.

Phase 6: The final visual touches

The so-called ‘hotcoat’ is applied, and the board is then sanded down in stages using 800-grit wet sandpaper. This produces a very fine, slightly matt finish. A high-gloss polish is not used here; polyester resin is better suited for that purpose.

The result: a homemade surfboard

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• Build your own bike trailer for windsurfing
• This is how a new SUP board is made
• Repairing windsurf boards – all the tips in the workshop