---------- 09.07.13 - 11.07.13 ------------- Approx. 160 kilometres along the lakeshore ------- In total 27.5 hours effective paddling time (12.5 hours day 1, 12 hours day 2, 3 hours day 3) --------- Sponsors: SeaTrek.de (Tahoe SUP), Triggernaut sportsglasses, Fitness Center Via Sola----------
3 countries in 3 days on one lake Germany's largest lake, Lake Constance
How it all began
Athletes always need new goals and challenges. So it was only a matter of time for me when I would recover psychologically and rehabilitate myself after my complicated fracture of the tibia and fibula as a result of a kitesurfing holiday on the Cap Verden at the beginning of December 2012. My first personal preparation for the following, strenuous undertaking was to paddle around Lake Chiemsee including its 3 islands with a total distance of approx. 80 kilometres, which I completed on 17.06.13 in 11.5 hours in temperatures of 35 degrees. After some research, I set myself the goal of paddling around Germany's largest lake in July of this year. Fuelled by the ambition to be the first SUP paddler to achieve this.
Day 1
When I had fully loaded my VW bus and was already on my way to Lake Constance, I heard the news on the radio of a failed attempt by a swimmer to swim the length of Lake Constance. The radio presenter then asked her listeners: "Please, dear extreme athletes, just keep your hands off Lake Constance" I drove on with a smile on my face.
The next day I got up at 5.00 am to unload my SUP and load it with the drybags. The right song was playing on the radio. Lenny Kravitz with "Fly away".
Boarding at 06.00 The morning was not very inviting. I struggled to carry my Tahoe Rubicon touring board over masses of driftwood and plastic rubbish in the still waist-deep water. A sad sight when you consider that this is part of a nature reserve. But the morning's low mood quickly disappeared when I saw the entire panorama of the impressive Lake Constance after a few paddles. It was much bigger than I remembered from my childhood. Yes, almost frightening. In the first 2 hours it took me to paddle to Bregenz, I really realised what standards I had set myself here. Still a little tired, the following thought kept running round in my head: "What a fuck, this isn't a lake but a sea! Mario, I think that was a rubbish idea!" I tried not to be immediately discouraged and continued on - along the impressive harbour entrance to Bregenz with its huge navigation lights. I continued towards the new Rhine inlet. This was extended by an enormously long artificial riverbed to prevent the Bregenz bay from silting up.
At the mouth of the Rhine When I arrived, I was greeted by murky, choppy water that was strongly marked by small waves due to the strong current. Five small fishing boats were trying their luck off this spot where the water was even calmer. They said this was the ideal place for fishing as the Rhine would wash a lot of fish into the lake. When I asked them where I should best cross the Rhine water, they clearly advised me to paddle around the inlet. A short time later, I realised that they were right. The moment I entered the bubbling water, the current turned my board 180° and started to wobble as if I had badly planned a whitewater trip. Fortunately, I stayed on my feet and, after an initial moment of fright, got out of the current quite quickly. I can't imagine what could happen if I fell into these whirlpools without a life jacket! I shortened the next section by paddling the following hour directly to the Austrian-Swiss border.
Halfway there from the Rhine to Switzerland, I met the sailor Siggi and his family for the first time. They started the engine on their 8 metre sailing yacht so that they could catch up with me in the balmy breeze out of curiosity about the lone paddler. After a brief chat from SUP to boat, they promptly invited me for a piece of coffee and cake, which I really couldn't refuse. So I took a break for the next 10 minutes and recharged my batteries while Siggi passed his first SUP tests on my board with flying colours. I said a friendly goodbye and we headed off in opposite directions
I reached the Swiss border at 11.30am. Along the Swiss bank, I kept coming across impressive fountains that threw their jets 10 - 20 metres into the air. For me, this was always a welcome way to cool off in the heat! Shortly before Romanshorn, the absolute highlight of the day awaited me. I spotted a turtle with the diameter of a football less than 2 metres in front of me. Of course, I realised that it wasn't in its natural habitat and must have escaped or even been released, but it was still a moment of happiness for me! Just before I got round to unpacking my camera, it dived away again, leaving just the two of us as silent witnesses to this encounter. Still full of happiness, I immediately decided to take my long overdue lunch break at 3 pm on the shore of a lido. Half an hour's sleep and one more to eat would have to suffice.
A littleTired and exhausted After 9 hours of paddling, I dragged myself along with difficulty until I reached the beacon of a lone navigation point, which was quite far from the shore.
Less than 5 minutes after I was able to admire the beacon in the calm, a pretty nasty north-easterly wind started to blow at around 5.30 pm, which steadily picked up and at its peak was blowing at around 15 knots. I fought bravely for almost 3 unbearable hours to reach my planned destination for the day, the German waters near Constance.The hard work paid off. I celebrated my arrival in Constance at around 8.30 pm. This impressive city with its imposing buildings and beautiful promenade is perfect for a long paddle or walk. There I meet the first two SUP paddlers on the promenade just before the town harbour who, as they tell me, are on their way to a beach bar for a cocktail to round off the day. We quickly strike up a conversation and I tell them about my plans and the fact that I've already been travelling for around 11 hours. "Then why don't you come with me?We'll have a few cocktails and show you the city" it immediately rings out to me. As much as I would like to in my heart, I refuse. The fact that I've been on my feet for so long, it will soon be dark and I still have to find a place to sleep doesn't allow me to relax so quickly. I decide in favour of the more sensible option and move on towards the Rhine outlet, from where the Rhine flows via a canal into the Untersee (another part of Lake Constance). As I continue my photo session from the SUP towards the Rhine bridge, I realise that I'm drifting faster and faster towards the bridge. To avoid being caught by the full force of the current, I set off on a quarter-hour, energy-sapping "steam hammer paddle" and motivate myself once again to avoid being swept into the Untersee. Totally exhausted,However, flashed by the beauty of this Lake Constance town, I look for a reasonably suitable place to sleep just before the ferry station between Constance and Meersburg. The end of a 12.5-hour paddling day has been reached. After what feels like 2 minutes, I happily fall into a comatose sleep in my tent....
Day 2
To minimise the risk of the wind picking up again, I decided to set my alarm for 4.00 a.m. the day before so that I could do a good stretch. However, I was still so exhausted that I simply ignored the alarm and only woke up later at 5.30 a.m. with sore muscles and aching hands.
After a quick breakfast We set off in the direction of the flower island of Mainau, Klausenhorn on the Obersee to the first short break at the Marienschlucht gorge. This empty, undeveloped part of the Obersee is perfect for nature-loving paddlers. Huge trees line the high steep slopes of the western shore right up to the edge of the lake. The previous days of heavy rain and storms also left their mark on Lake Constance, which is easily recognisable from the occasional mudslides. Many trees have been uprooted and are lying overturned in the water, but this in no way detracts from the charm of the surroundings.
When I arrive in Bodmann in the north, I head straight for Bodmann-Ludwigshafen, the northernmost town on the lake. The tranquillity of the whole area can also be felt there and so I enjoy doing my laps, far away from mass tourism, and paddle towards Uhldingen, where you can admire the famous pile dwellings, at an almost natural, brisk pace. The Lake Dwelling Museum exhibits original artefacts from the Stone and Bronze Ages and the reconstructed pile dwellings of the Stone Age people provide a unique photo backdrop for stand-up paddlers. I cheekily ignore the"Driving prohibited"sign and quickly paddle into the museum grounds to enrich myself with a nice picture. In order not to further inconvenience the already angry staff, I leave as quickly as I arrived before I reach Meersburg, about 18 kilometres to the south. Meersburg, the town of museums and wine, impresses with its marvellous location and romantic corners. For me, paddling along the promenade of the small medieval town was a very special pleasure, as it exuded the greatest charm for me from the perspective of the sea. People wave cheerfully to me and I try not to look too exhausted, as the long paddle is slowly but surely making itself felt. "Now would be a good time for a break!" I think to myself...
"Hey, Mario! Yay, Mario!" I hear it calling from the lake. I turn round and can hardly believe it: Siggi the sailor and his wife. What a funny coincidence. We met at the other end of the lake on the first day. "You didn't finish your cake yesterday!" they joke as I get on the boat. While I am served grapes and strawberries, as well as the rest of the cake, we share our news with each other. It's really nice to be able to sit down and have a chat again after all the paddling. After a quarter of an hour, I get off the boat and we say goodbye amicably.
The weathermen and their forecasts, I curse under my breath. For the next 2.5 hours, I have to fight a headwind from the south. "Wasn't NE forecast? I won't be able to cope for much longer" I grumble. I already had to paddle mostly to the left yesterday and now again! Exhausted by the headwind, I reach Friedrichshafen at 20:00. I don't have much time left to find a suitable place to sleep, so I decide to mobilise my last reserves once again and set off on a ¾ hour sprint. A closed lido makesHope for a quiet nightbut this vanishes immediately when the barking guard dog scares me away before I land. Less confident, I keep an eye out in the nature reserve behind it until I discover a wonderful spot.
A small sandbank surrounded by rustic pastureswhich grow far into the lake, make this spot something very special. The surroundings look like a picture from an advertising magazine and I am delighted to have found such a beautiful spot. If it weren't for the aggressive, hungry mosquitoes that pounce on me as soon as I heave my board out of the water. Without hesitation, I put on my long clothes and cover myself with my hoodie. As this is not enough and I continue to get stung on my hands and face, I decide to light 3 small fires around my future camp to smoke them out. When I finally stand in the smoke, I set up my tent in peace and start cooking my tinned dinner. It's not far now, I think to myself as I lie down in my sleeping bag and fall asleep quickly and deeply after another 12-hour day of paddling.
Day 3
As the hungry midges are also lurking outside my shelter the next morning, I eat my breakfast muesli in the tent. Well prepared, I quickly dismantle my camp and don my swimming trunks on the lake so that I can continue my journey unscathed. The day starts well. A light breeze from the NE is in my favour and gently pushes me towards Langenargen past the beautiful castle built right on the water. Now I only have just under 10 kilometres to go. In a good mood, I pick up the pace and let the villa landscape around Wasserburg glide past me. At last, the island of Mainau is within my grasp and all the exertions of the past days and hours are suddenly forgotten. Even my now aching hands are only noticed in passing. It's done! I have arrived in Lindau, the destination of my journey! Impressed by the new lighthouse (1856) and the Bavarian lion on the harbour entrance opposite, I enjoy the view over the harbour, which is the departure point for many of the largest scheduled ships on Lake Constance. With a clear conscience that there is no larger lake to paddle around in Germany, I load up my VW bus: exhausted but happy. 3 countries in 3 days on one lake. Germany's largest lake, Lake Constance, didn't bring me to my knees thanks to the good weather.
On the way home this time I don't hear any news about failed attempts by extreme sports enthusiasts who wanted to let off steam at the lake and failed!
Aloha,
Mario Stecher
