Germany: SUP Tour on the Staffelsee

We can promise that those who enjoy and keep an eye out instead of just speeding across the lake will discover some natural beauty. After the start in the Murnau Bay of Pigs, we prefer to paddle anti-clockwise. After around one kilometre, we pass the Burg peninsula with the beautifully situated campsite of the same name. At the same height, it is worth making a short detour to the tiny Jakobsinsel, which lies lost and as if forgotten between the Burg peninsula and the island of Wörth. In the past, a wooden footbridge connected Wörth with St James' Island and the eastern shore of the lake. Today, all that remains of the footbridge are a few poles sticking up in the air on the northern shore. The cross on St James' Island was consecrated by Pope Benedict XVI and erected on the island in 2007.

Following a zigzag pattern, our trip leads from here back north-east to the picturesque little boat harbour in the municipality of Seehausen. Curious paddlers paddle a little further into the bay, under a narrow wooden bridge, to the weathered boathouses of Seehausen. From there, we can paddle upstream on the narrow Ferchenbach stream through reeds and meadows towards the town centre. After around 300 metres, however, the exciting excursion comes to an end as impenetrable reeds block any further passage. On the narrow stream, even the turning manoeuvre becomes a sporting challenge. Not only is it narrow here, but a closer look at the surface of the water reveals small, insidious wooden piles that occasionally protrude just below the surface and magnetically attract cheeky fins. A "Superman" over the tip of the board is said to have already happened here. The boat harbour in Seehausen is also the insider tip for starting a tour in the cold season, as you can get from the jetty onto the boards here without getting your feet wet. In summer, however, Seehausen is so crowded that finding a parking space can be a game of chance.

From Seehausen, we continue our journey northwards. We leave the mainland with the Seehausen lido on our right. With the island of Wörth on our left, we head straight for the camping island of Buchau. The shuttle boat from Seehausen also docks at the southern tip of Buchau to take campers ashore. The site is catered for and therefore invites you to take a break in the beer garden.

To the east of Buchau lies the small Gradeneiland. The hut on this mini-island is private property: "Trespassing is strictly forbidden", an uninviting sign tells us. So we only take a look from the water and aim for the island of Mühlwörth in the north, but continue on to the northern shore to the Alpenblick lakeside restaurant. Within sight of the restaurant, we find a green meadow to land on. The sunny beer garden provides us with a well-kept Bavarian lunch at reasonable prices, the boards rest on the green meadow in front of the Alpine panorama. After a good refreshment, we set sail in a southerly direction and paddle along the west bank. After about a kilometre, the Ach flows out of the lake on the right-hand side. The same rules apply on the Ach as on the Staffelsee: from autumn to spring, we are allowed to explore it on a SUP board, which is definitely worthwhile. The little stream meanders picturesquely through mown meadows and planted fields towards Uffing. After around two kilometres, an artificial weir ends the exploratory trip. Back on the lake, we continue southwards and pass directly by the Aichalehof campsite.

If your arms are starting to get heavy here, you can cycle the short way back: To the next headland, past the Lindenbichl youth camp and towards Wörth. It is even shorter to go round to the left, i.e. past the eastern shore of the island, to get back to the starting bay in Murnau.

However, if you still have the stamina, desire and time, continue along the western shoreline and paddle into the quieter, western part of the lake. The tour, along the "Westlicher Staffelsee" nature reserve, still has a few kilometres to go to the starting point at Schweinebucht, so please don't underestimate your stamina. With seven islands and three campsites, the Staffelsee offers a number of shorter alternative tours and bathing days with a mountain panorama in addition to the complete circuit. It is not for nothing that many Staffelsee paddlers are convinced repeat offenders.

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INFO STAFFELSEE

Among the many lakes in the Munich area, the Staffelsee near Murnau stands out for its versatility. Situated in the Ammer-Loisach hill country, it is the most island-rich lake in the Alpine foothills and offers ideal temperatures of around 24 degrees for a jump from the board into the water in midsummer. The lake was formed during the Würm Ice Age and was shaped by the Loisach glacier around 10,000 years ago. The northernmost of the three sections of the lake is Untersee with the islands of Buchau, Gradeneiland and Mühlwörth with Uffinger Bucht. The Obersee in the south-west surrounds the islands of Große Birke and Kleine Birke. The Stegsee in the south-east is home to Wörth and Jakobinsel. The total area is just under eight square kilometres, with an average depth of around 10 metres.

A complete circumnavigation of the Staffelsee is only permitted in spring before 1 March or in autumn after 15 October. The round trip adds 18 kilometres to the stand-up paddler's logbook and takes an ambitious two hours, twice as long when relaxed. Boards can be hired at the Lido, Burg campsite and Uffing lido.

The islands

"Wörth" is the largest of the seven islands and the only one that is inhabited all year round. A chapel was built here as early as the 7th century. "Buchau" is the second largest island and is home to a campsite for tents only. The island is served by the Staffelsee boat service from Seehausen from around mid-April to mid-October.

"Große Birke", the third largest island, also has a small campsite that offers DKV members extremely favourable overnight accommodation, but is also open to non-members of the DKV. However, it can only be reached with your own boat or SUP.

The "Kleine Birke" lies between Wörth and Großer Birke. To the north you will find Mühlwörth. "Graden-eiland" is the second smallest island and, last but not least, the smallest island in the group is "Jakobsinsel".

Paddling with children

Due to its warm temperatures in summer and the possibility of taking short trips to one of the numerous islands, the Staffelsee is also ideal for a tour with children. Whether with mum or dad on the board or on their own with their own board. There are always exciting things to discover on the shore or just below the water's surface. Don't forget your life jacket and off you go.

Security

The region is very susceptible to thunderstorms, which is why the Staffelsee has been equipped with a storm warning system. However, the system is only in operation from the beginning of April to the end of October from 7 am to 10 pm. The orange-coloured flashing lights on the shore warn of strong winds and correspondingly strong waves. 6 to 8 Beaufort threaten with 40 flashes per minute, 8 and more Beaufort with 90 flashes per minute. So if there are frantic flashes on the shore, you should leave the lake as quickly as possible. Although it is not compulsory to use a leash, we strongly recommend it on such waters in case you do get caught in a few squalls and it may not be possible to retrieve the board by swimming after a fall.

Closures

The Ach, which flows into the west bank, is closed between 1 March and 15 October. The same applies to the bays on the south-west bank. The "Westlicher Staffelsee" nature reserve is located here.

Food and drink

At the end of the tour, stop off at the Lido right on the right bank of the bay of pigs to enjoy the best burgers in the entire Alpine foothills region - the perfect end to a Staffelsee tour. The small beer garden right next to the sunbathing lawn, which also has a fire pit, is also a great place to enjoy a beer or a snack after a successful tour. The speciality here is a great currywurst in various degrees of spiciness.

We have already mentioned the Alpenblick lakeside restaurant on the northern shore with its small beer garden as a snack tip. There is also a recommended pizzeria by the Seehausen lido. There is also a small restaurant with a beer garden on the Buchau camping island. This lovely spot in the lake is also a great starting point for several days on the Staffelsee or simply for a lunch break.

Overnight stay

The campsite on the Burg peninsula is quite manageable with 150 pitches, but is also an excellent starting point as it is located directly on the water. camping-staffelsee.de

If it's not too complicated and you're prepared to limit yourself to a minimum - just as much luggage as will fit on the board - you can also start the more adventurous alternative (especially for kids) and move your base camp to the campsite of the Bavarian Canoe Association on the island of Große Birke. Non-members are also welcome here. In this case, an overnight stay costs twice as much, but at 6 euros for an adult and 3 euros for young people up to the age of 18, this is still reasonable. kanu-bayern.de

Buchau Island also offers camping facilities and is also served by a ferry service from Seehausen. You can therefore pack a little more luggage if you first take the ferry to the island to set up camp and start your tours from there. Only tents are allowed on the island, but there is a small restaurant and a beer garden. buchau-campinginsel.de

You can find guesthouses and hotels via the information in Murnau. murnau.de

Journey

From Munich, take the A95 motorway for about 45 minutes to Murnau to the "Schweinebucht", our recommended starting point for a trip on the Staffelsee. In Murnau, follow the signs to the landing stage. There is a cheap car park here (2016: 3 euros) with usually sufficient parking space. Particularly good: there is no height restriction for motorhomes.