Spain: SUP Spotguide Fuerteventura
Do we have to turn left or right? Well, when I was here for the first time in 1990, Corralejo just stopped after the petrol station in the village!" A few turns and one-way streets later, we arrive at our destination after all. I'm staying for a week with my daughter Paulina right on the town beach in the new branch of the Ineika Fun Centre. Behind us is grey Hamburg, in front of us a small wave on the inside of Rocky Point. We still have an hour of light, so let's get out there. After dinner - our first waves in the bag - we have a relaxed chat with Siggi Opitz, the owner of the camp. Siggi is a real Fuerte veteran. When the Bavarian founded his fun centre in 1993, it was the first surf school on the island. Siggi remembers: "Of course, a lot has changed here since then, and the construction boom was also really rampant until before the crisis. But now things have calmed down again. There are a few construction sins, but one advantage is that you now have plenty of options for eating out. From Thai to Indian, there is everything for every budget. If you don't like the hustle and bustle, you can quickly reach quieter corners of the island by car. And on the water, if you get up early enough, you might be lucky enough to find a wave all to yourself."
Goodbye western town
"Dad, do you think I can sleep for a few more minutes until we get to Majanicho beach?" "Sure, but it's not far now. We're already at the crossroads in Lajares." No answer. Silence has already returned to the passenger seat of our hire Panda. The waves over the last three days have been good - and exhausting. It looks similar for the rest of the week. You could do with a power nap or two. While Paulina gathers her strength, I look at the blue line at the end of the road. It's amazing: I was here for the first time a good 30 years ago. Back then, I sat excitedly in the passenger seat and hopped down here with my father on a dirt track littered with potholes. On the roof: windsurfing stuff. Lajares, now a nice little surfing village, was nothing more than a crossroads. And Corralejo had the charm of a dusty western town.
Lure for boarders
After seeing the first pictures of Jürgen Hönscheid in the waves of El Cotillo in the surf magazine, we were keen to get to know this new spot. And not just us: In the wake of Jürgen, who had found his new home here with his family, more and more windsurfers came to the island in the early 1990s. Many lost out in the battle with the brutal beach break in El Cotillo and the sharp rocks on the north shore - and focussed on the less selective conditions in the south of the island on their next visit. After surfers and windsurfers, kitesurfers arrived at the end of the 90s. After that, more and more boardbags with boards and paddles appeared at the airport in Puerto de Rosario. Jürgen is not entirely innocent in this new sports invasion either. Because the lure bears the name Sonnie. Since her victory in the iron-hard Molokai Race, she has been one of the best SUP athletes in the world. Wherever someone like that is training, it can't hurt to stop by.
Paulina's Fanatic team-mate Kai Nicolas Steimer thought the same thing and moved his residence to the second largest Canary Island from October to March. The aim: an extended training session. Together with top French pro Eric Terrien and Susanne Lier, he is getting fit for the 2015 season and we are keeping him away from raceboard training as often as possible for a week. Because first and foremost we want to ride the waves! We hope that today in Majanicho will be just as good as in the past few days and that the wind will take a break again. And if not: it's just before eight, we're early and have enough time to look for an alternative. Because one thing hasn't changed here - despite the internet and webcams: It's not always easy to find the right spot. It can be blowing in El Cotillo, and around the corner in Majanicho it's calm. That's why it's often the same on Fuerte as on the Danish coast: water sports are car sports. But this morning we are in the right place at the right time. The tide is rising, the wind is calm and there are nice sets out on the reef. "Hey big guys, wake up!" I whisper towards the passenger seat. "And give Kai a call, I think he can save his lesson at the gym this morning!"
Always stay relaxed
"You know, last week I was out in Los Lobos and there were more than 50 surfers in the line-up. When it's that crowded, I often ask myself: Is this still my sport? I'd rather go out with the SUP on my doorstep than get three waves in one morning, where, if you're unlucky, you'll get caught in one," Jürgen explains his new passion.
We are guests of the Hönscheid family. Outside, the surf is crashing over the inside of Rocky Point. Not much has changed in their little kingdom since my last visit a good twelve years ago, apart from a new terrace and a new passion for boards. Jürgen continues: "The only problem with the SUP in the waves is that it's easier for people without experience to get into the line-up, even in bigger waves. If they stand there without knowing the right of way rules, it's very dangerous. Even experienced surfers should avoid busy surf spots with the SUP to avoid trouble. If you turn up off Los Lobos on a SUP, you'll have 50 new 'friends' within a very short time! We like to save ourselves that. And we have too much fun at Rocky Point for that. Today, for example, was perfect: no wind, sun and a big winter swell - what more could you want?"
We'll be back - that's for sure. And if you like sailing or kitesurfing as well as SUP, you'll hardly be able to spend a day relaxing on the beach on Fuerte. The Hawaii of Europe still lives up to its name.
SPOTGUIDE FUERTE
The best starting point is the north. Here it is a good idea to look for accommodation in Corralejo. With a bit of wave luck, you can get by here without a hire car. From flat water at the harbour pier to trips to the Lobos lagoon in calm weather to big waves on the outside of Rocky Point, you'll find everything a SUP athlete's heart desires here. In the south of the island, La Pared is the first port of call for wave lovers. Waveguru, the surf camp and surf school in La Pared, also offers SUP courses. However, it is usually much windier here than in the north of the island, especially in summer, so we will limit our tips to the north.
1st SUP Wave Spots
- Corralejo Town - La Galera / Waikiki Beach Perfect beginner's wave, just a few paddle strokes from the beach. Works best at low tide. The shallow reef is quite safe. If the water is at low tide, however, you should not completely lose sight of the two small rocks in the reef. As the spot is close to the shore, it is also worth a try in windy conditions. A really big swell has to come around the corner for the wave to be head-high here.
- Rocky Point or - as the locals call the spot: Bajo del Medio The Hönscheid family's home spot is fast becoming the island's favourite SUP spot thanks to its location and versatility. Inside It is primarily reserved for surfers. The wave here usually breaks for the second time over a very shallow, uncomfortably sharp reef.
Outside The outside break for good SUP riders. Most surfers don't like paddling the long way out to the outside. Speaking of far: instead of paddling out over the sharp reef, it's better to start upwind at the surf school. This may mean an extra 500 metres, but you'll be warmed up by the time the first set appears on the horizon. If it gets big - about head-high - you should definitely bring some wave experience with you, as the waves have a lot of power and can keep you under water a little longer. Also important: patience. If you paddle into a small inside wave quickly, you often won't get out fast enough with the wrong timing, even with a paddle. The subsequent wash over the shallow reef on the inside is no fun. Normally, the waves on the outside are best at low tide.
Left Less frequented is the left at Rocky Point. Here, too, the relatively long paddle path and the wave that occasionally becomes round after a steep take-off in the centre are certainly good reasons why only longboarders and SUP riders usually meet here. The wave can get very long. At low tide, however, you should keep an eye on the rocks just before the shore towards the exit. The Left has the advantage that it is a little less susceptible to wind than the Inside and Outside of Rocky Point.
2. northshore If you take the still rather bumpy road from Corralejo towards Cotillo along the northshore, you will pass some well-known surf spots. However, most of them are only for SUP locals like Nicole and Stephane Etienne, the Hönscheid family or Iballa Moreno. At least if you want to avoid trouble with the surfers ...
- Majanicho If you want to spare yourself and your hire car a tough bumpy road, drive via Lajares to the best estate car spot on the island. This also has the advantage that you can pick up the tastiest croissants on the island and a strong coffee at the small bakery. Turn off at the Northshore surf shop and drive along the now tarmac road towards the coast. The further to the right you park, the easier it is to get in. Windsurfers, kiters, longboarders and SUP riders like to cavort on the righthander, which breaks over a flat reef plate. Windsurfers and kiters hope for a strong easterly wind. As soon as it starts to falter, it's high time to grab a paddle. The easiest entry point is to the right of the car park. Here, the shallow reef is overgrown with algae and offers a few slippery, but at least quite barefoot-friendly lava slabs for getting in and out. If you don't feel quite confident yet, you should first test the smaller peak at the end of the reef before paddling all the way out. Because of the current, which pulls you out of the line-up towards deep water, not every wash means an immediate exit over the reef, even with larger swells. The wave can get very long, and with a good eye and a couple of paddle strokes in between, you can create nice long wave rides. Unfortunately, the spot is popular with stand-up paddlers. There's always something going on. At high tide, the inside (when you come in from the road in the first small bay) is also worth a look. Especially as it is much less susceptible to wind than the Outside. But be careful: The water is very shallow in the take-off area and the wave is also very popular with surfers.
- El Cotillo Playa Esquinzo, right next to the small fishing village of El Cotillo, is the top spot for all surf schools in the north. Beginners are likely to get sore muscles when paddling through and into the white water here. To catch a longer wave at the powerful beach break, on the other hand, you need to have some experience and a bit of luck. The sandbanks rearrange themselves every winter. The powerful sets usually break close-out (i.e. all at once) on the sandy beach. The wind can also pick up a bit here, depending on how it is meandering around the island. When it's right, El Cotillo has a very nice wave. That's why it's always worth a detour - even if it's just to take an afternoon nap in the dunes or enjoy the view of the bay from the old harbour. There are also very good fish restaurants here.
3. shallow water
If you want to do a lap in shallow water, you are in good hands behind the Corralejo harbour pier. The pier also offers a little lee in north-north-easterly winds.
- Los Lobos Even though Sonni Hönscheid paddles to Lobos and back almost every morning as a little warm-up: The strait should really only be tackled by very experienced paddlers - and never alone! The current, wind and often a decent choppy wave in the centre of the channel are not to be taken lightly. The easiest way to explore Los Lobos on a calm day is by SUP: Get on the ferry in the harbour with your board, take a leisurely ride across and climb onto the board there. Then you just have to be careful not to miss the last ferry back.
INFO FUERTE
Getting there A top place to go for cheap flights to Fuerte: Surf & Action-Company. If you're not flying over the Christmas holidays, you can get flights for around 150 euros. If you bring your own board, you pay 50 euros just for the board. For information call 089/6281670, info@surf-action.com Travelling time The best time for waves and a little less wind is from October to April. Accommodation You will find all types of accommodation from surf hostels to star palaces. - Ineika FunCentre ( www.ineika.com ) Everything is organised down to earth, relaxed and without stress. You can either stay in the "old" camp in the centre above the harbour or, like us, in the new house directly in the bay opposite the Waikiki Beach Club. If you stay here, you can really jump from bed to board. In December, the guys from Bavarian Waters also offer SUP camps here. www.bavarianwaters.com - Billabong Surf Camp Opposite the Ineika Hostel, you can stay at the Billabong Surf Camp. Here, too, the beach is right at your feet. www.billabongsurfcamp.com Restaurants - tested for you Typical local sauces (aioli - garlic mayonnaise, mojo rojo - garlic cream with paprika - and mojo verde - garlic cream with herbs) are usually served with bread before the meal. After paying, there is often a typical island Ron Miel (honey rum).
Corralejo - Pincha Cabra Typical tapas bar - a little away from the tourist crowds. - Tapas Oscar Authentic Canarian food. - Café Secreto Surfer centre right next to the Line Up surf shop.
Lahares - Rojo Tomate Great pasta here. - La Canela Upscale, intercontinental food.
Cotillo - El Goloso del Cotillo The absolute insider tip. A wonderful little French bakery that offers the best croissants on the island as well as perfect coffee. - La Marisma The best fish restaurant far and wide, known for its great paella and fresh fish specialities. More than fair prices. - Marameo and EL Takun Original Italian pizza.
Shops Some shops offer training and hire. A day's board hire costs 29 euros at Line Up in Corralejo, for example. Info: www.lineupfuerteventura.com A good alternative to your own board, especially for wave beginners, as you don't have to commit to one board size. Jürgen Hönscheid's North Shore shop is located in Lajaras: www.northshore-fuerteventura.com
Swell forecast www.magicseaweed.com
