PhotographyTen tips for successful windsurfing photos - plus: the most important camera settings

SURF Redaktion

 · 12.11.2025

Photography: Ten tips for successful windsurfing photos - plus: the most important camera settingsPhoto: pwaworldtour.com
John Carter gives tips on how to take good windsurfing pictures yourself!
None other than John Carter has given us his tips for successful windsurfing pictures. The legendary photographer shows you how you can take good pictures yourself with limited resources and what you should look out for!

The windsurfing world as we know it is largely characterised by the images of John Carter. The Brit is the PWA's photographer and brings us almost all World Cup events through his lens on his own screens. JC also photographs for several major brands "on the side" and travels around the world in search of good spots.

In the surf interview, John Carter revealed a few of his tricks for taking good and spectacular windsurfing pictures. Even without outstanding riders in front of the camera, it is possible to take pictures worth seeing - and with manageable equipment. If you have an eye for motifs and take a few tips to heart, you can capture your sessions wonderfully.

Choosing the right equipment

For beginners, Carter recommends, for example, a zoom lens such as a 100-400 mm or 100-500 mm for action plus a wide-angle lens (e.g. 24-70 mm or 17-35 mm) for shooting the surroundings. Important: Versatility instead of just super-telephoto for beginners.

Actively change location & perspective

Don't stay in the same place all day. It's worth moving around - different perspectives often bring better and surprising results.

Observe timing & lighting situation

The "golden hour" counts: The last 1-2 hours before sunset often provide particularly atmospheric shots. Even in poor light: check early on whether the settings are suitable (e.g. increase ISO).

Recognising the challenges of the environment & climate

Example: Heat shimmer can occur over hot sand, which impairs sharpness and quality. In wind, salt water and rain, it is important to protect the equipment well and keep the sensor clean

Combining action with design

It's not just important that the surfer is spectacular - the image composition (jump height, surroundings, "wow" moment) also counts. Even with "normal" manoeuvres: Get close, choose depth, use foreground.

Consciously control settings

Autofocus + control: Carter uses automatic, but adjusts corrections (e.g. -2/3 aperture) if necessary. He uses RAW instead of JPEG for the file format in order to have more room for manoeuvre in post-processing.

Special effect: Use speed blur ("dragging")

If the action is moving parallel to the camera: with a zoom lens plus longer exposure times (e.g. 1/40 to 1/60 second) you can achieve dynamic images with a blurred background. Even longer exposure (e.g. 1/15 s) increases the dynamic range, but is more demanding.

Water photography: pay attention to safety for people and equipment

Anyone taking photos in the water must not only protect their equipment, but also themselves (e.g. with a coloured helmet). Before getting started: check the seals of the water housing and double-check that all settings are correct!

Preparation is at least as important as taking photos

No good photo without good planning: check the weather, check batteries and memory cards, mount equipment correctly. Take inspiration from other pictures of the spot or motifs, not just from the windsurfing sector!

Photographing even in less than perfect conditions

Of course, it's not always bright blue skies and perfect waves. You can also work on cloudy days and in the rain: ISO high, protection for the camera, find a good angle. And: less spectacular riders can provide surprisingly good motifs because they are "crazier".

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The most important camera settings for good windsurfing pictures

Recommended basic settings (starting values)

  • RAW instead of JPEG
  • Serial recording high
  • AF-C / AI servo
  • Larger area with several focus points
  • Exposure compensationoften -1/3 to -2/3 EV → prevents overexposure of water and spray
  • White balanceAuto (RAW makes it correctable)

Action shots from the shore (jumps, manoeuvres, fast turns)

ConditionExposure timeApertureISOFocusHint
Sunny / midday light1/1600 - 1/2500 sf/5.6 - f/8100-200AF-C / AI servoPrevents motion blur during fast movements
Golden hour1/1000 - 1/2000 sf/4 - f/5.6200-400AF-CWarm light + good spray look.
Cloudy1/1000 - 1/1600 sf/4 - f/5400-800AF-CLight is softer, but ISO increases.

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Speed shots / "pulling along" (panning)

MovementExposure timeApertureISOFocal lengthTip
Normal speed1/40 - 1/80 sf/8 - f/14100-400100-400 mmPull along parallel, torso stable.
Very fast1/30 - 1/60 sf/11 - f/16100-400200-500 mmKeep the focus point centred.
Experimental1/10 - 1/25 sf/16 - f/2210070-400 mmLots of misses - but images look extremely dynamic.

Wide-angle shots (surfers close to the camera, in the water, action right in front of you)

SituationExposure timeApertureISOFocal lengthHint
Sunny1/1000 - 1/2000 sf/8 - f/13100-20016-35 mmGreat depth of field, spray looks massive.
Water shots / very close1/1000 - 1/2000 sf/11 - f/1620014-20 mmClose aperture → more hits in focus.
Cloudy1/800 - 1/1600 sf/5.6 - f/8400-80016-35 mmRemove drops on the front lens regularly.

"Atmosphere" - landscape + surfer

LightExposure timeApertureISOFocal lengthTip
Sunrise1/500 - 1/1250 sf/5.6 - f/11100-40024-70 mmUse backlighting - board silhouettes look epic.
Dramatic sky1/800 - 1/1600 sf/8 - f/13100-20024-70 mmEmphasise clouds, keep the horizon straight.
Distant action1/1250 - 1/2000 sf/8200-400200-500 mmNote air flicker (especially over sand).

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