The windsurfing world as we know it is largely characterised by the images of John Carter. The Brit is the PWA's photographer and brings us almost all World Cup events through his lens on his own screens. JC also photographs for several major brands "on the side" and travels around the world in search of good spots.
In the surf interview, John Carter revealed a few of his tricks for taking good and spectacular windsurfing pictures. Even without outstanding riders in front of the camera, it is possible to take pictures worth seeing - and with manageable equipment. If you have an eye for motifs and take a few tips to heart, you can capture your sessions wonderfully.
For beginners, Carter recommends, for example, a zoom lens such as a 100-400 mm or 100-500 mm for action plus a wide-angle lens (e.g. 24-70 mm or 17-35 mm) for shooting the surroundings. Important: Versatility instead of just super-telephoto for beginners.
Don't stay in the same place all day. It's worth moving around - different perspectives often bring better and surprising results.
The "golden hour" counts: The last 1-2 hours before sunset often provide particularly atmospheric shots. Even in poor light: check early on whether the settings are suitable (e.g. increase ISO).
Example: Heat shimmer can occur over hot sand, which impairs sharpness and quality. In wind, salt water and rain, it is important to protect the equipment well and keep the sensor clean
It's not just important that the surfer is spectacular - the image composition (jump height, surroundings, "wow" moment) also counts. Even with "normal" manoeuvres: Get close, choose depth, use foreground.
Autofocus + control: Carter uses automatic, but adjusts corrections (e.g. -2/3 aperture) if necessary. He uses RAW instead of JPEG for the file format in order to have more room for manoeuvre in post-processing.
If the action is moving parallel to the camera: with a zoom lens plus longer exposure times (e.g. 1/40 to 1/60 second) you can achieve dynamic images with a blurred background. Even longer exposure (e.g. 1/15 s) increases the dynamic range, but is more demanding.
Anyone taking photos in the water must not only protect their equipment, but also themselves (e.g. with a coloured helmet). Before getting started: check the seals of the water housing and double-check that all settings are correct!
No good photo without good planning: check the weather, check batteries and memory cards, mount equipment correctly. Take inspiration from other pictures of the spot or motifs, not just from the windsurfing sector!
Of course, it's not always bright blue skies and perfect waves. You can also work on cloudy days and in the rain: ISO high, protection for the camera, find a good angle. And: less spectacular riders can provide surprisingly good motifs because they are "crazier".
More about photography:
| Condition | Exposure time | Aperture | ISO | Focus | Hint |
| Sunny / midday light | 1/1600 - 1/2500 s | f/5.6 - f/8 | 100-200 | AF-C / AI servo | Prevents motion blur during fast movements |
| Golden hour | 1/1000 - 1/2000 s | f/4 - f/5.6 | 200-400 | AF-C | Warm light + good spray look. |
| Cloudy | 1/1000 - 1/1600 s | f/4 - f/5 | 400-800 | AF-C | Light is softer, but ISO increases. |
| Movement | Exposure time | Aperture | ISO | Focal length | Tip |
| Normal speed | 1/40 - 1/80 s | f/8 - f/14 | 100-400 | 100-400 mm | Pull along parallel, torso stable. |
| Very fast | 1/30 - 1/60 s | f/11 - f/16 | 100-400 | 200-500 mm | Keep the focus point centred. |
| Experimental | 1/10 - 1/25 s | f/16 - f/22 | 100 | 70-400 mm | Lots of misses - but images look extremely dynamic. |
| Situation | Exposure time | Aperture | ISO | Focal length | Hint |
| Sunny | 1/1000 - 1/2000 s | f/8 - f/13 | 100-200 | 16-35 mm | Great depth of field, spray looks massive. |
| Water shots / very close | 1/1000 - 1/2000 s | f/11 - f/16 | 200 | 14-20 mm | Close aperture → more hits in focus. |
| Cloudy | 1/800 - 1/1600 s | f/5.6 - f/8 | 400-800 | 16-35 mm | Remove drops on the front lens regularly. |
| Light | Exposure time | Aperture | ISO | Focal length | Tip |
| Sunrise | 1/500 - 1/1250 s | f/5.6 - f/11 | 100-400 | 24-70 mm | Use backlighting - board silhouettes look epic. |
| Dramatic sky | 1/800 - 1/1600 s | f/8 - f/13 | 100-200 | 24-70 mm | Emphasise clouds, keep the horizon straight. |
| Distant action | 1/1250 - 1/2000 s | f/8 | 200-400 | 200-500 mm | Note air flicker (especially over sand). |