All in all, I’ve certainly been to Maui 40 times.
Before the pandemic, Maui was magical, but Maui has changed. That laid-back, ‘Aloha’ vibe – it’s gone. Maui has become very American. Neil Pryde Maui is now an empty warehouse. Naish Hawaii has closed down. Maui Windsurf Company is gone. There are no more surf shops. The old Maui is a thing of the past.
Even that’s different. Sprecks, the top spot for all amateur windsurfers, burnt down a few years ago. Now it’s a derelict stretch of beach where nobody surfs anymore. The Kiawe trees had previously prevented any building there, but then the forest burnt down by chance. The magical spot of yesteryear is dead.
I used to love Sprecks too. These days, it’s Hookipa or Kanaha. When the wind’s blowing from the north: S-turns on the south side. My favourite spot, when it’s working: Kuau.
No. There are hardly any parking spaces – which is a pain. Getting in and out is tricky. If you’re not careful, you’ll soon find yourself stranded on a shallow reef full of sea urchins.
Surfing or stand-up paddleboarding, if there are waves. Or hiking.
There’s nothing you can do about it. There’s nothing left. All the cool bars have been shut down. The hippie vibe of the past is gone; the rich have taken over. The windsurfing culture is a thing of the past. From a windsurfer’s point of view, you’d almost have to say: Don’t go to Maui.
Capitalism. Back in the day, you’d see old bangers driving about with surfboards on the roof. Now you see BMW 7 Series cars. Paia used to be a laid-back windsurfing village. These days, the ladies strut about in stilettos and carry Louis Vuitton bags.
The brilliant combination: nature, sport, lifestyle. For me, that combination was what made Maui special. The lifestyle aspect is gone, and sport is becoming less and less of a feature too. That leaves nature. But Maui, the windsurfing island, no longer exists.