Temperatures far above the comfort zone, a road that doesn't deserve the name, no shade, no people, just hot sand everywhere. At walking pace, we steer our dilapidated van around potholes, each of which is the potential nemesis of the front right wheel. One of the wheel bearings is unmistakably broken. With every turn, it emits a noise that, in the midst of the Western-style wasteland, bears an unsettling resemblance to the agonising harmonica from the film "Play me the song of death". We already feel like we're in a cheap mixture of western, road movie and horror film.
The script synopsis: "Naive Europeans on a surfing trip in Australia buy a wrecked hippie bus, break down in the outback and are carried off to organ dealers in the pouch of a killer kangaroo". Admittedly, one tends to exaggerate when exposed to the Australian sun for too long. Nevertheless, I had imagined a different start to our road trip than being overtaken by my own front wheel somewhere between Gnaraloo and the foothills of civilisation. Doomed to ride slowly, we dig ourselves into every better sand drift and have to keep shovelling and pushing. Twelve hours and a few kangaroo fantasies later, we finally reach the garage that will save us. The tattooed mechanic looks like an organ dealer, but he changes our wheel bearings for 200 dollars and is otherwise quite nice. He commented on our description of the hellish ride through the desert with a grinning "daily business guys, welcome to Australia!"
This casual lesson in normal Australian hardship gets to the heart of the matter: whether it's roaring heat, yawning emptiness or flies in your nose and ears - some of the inconveniences on the fifth continent simply cannot be changed. So it's best to take it like an Australian and prepare for the daily business - with good preparation and the typical "no-worries mentality" for anything you can't prepare for. For example, a trip to the outback can be made a lot less stressful with a face net against flies for five dollars and membership of a car club for 80 dollars. The unfavourable combination - as in our case - of a breakdown plus a radio blackout falls into the residual risk category.
However, even in this case, a stylish Ozzie would not allow himself to be stressed, but rather extend the awning, get a cold beer from the camping fridge and wait until another vehicle comes along. If he didn't have the right spare part, a radio or a quad bike with him anyway. Because sometimes it seems as if Australians are born as barbecue, camping, fishing and car experts. Every good shopping centre has at least one outdoor shop selling everything you need for a camping trip, from head torches to shark-attack-resistant camouflage wetsuits. If you trust the statistics, windsurfers can safely do without the shark-smart wetsuit).
On long weekends, a caravan of metal vehicles pushes its way to the campsites and beaches. Off-road jeeps or pick-ups with kangaroo - sorry, cow - catchers are not only a matter of course, but are simply necessary given the remoteness and accessibility of some destinations. A day at the beach is therefore often an active holiday for Australians: it starts with an off-road track, followed by surfing - of course, because surfing is clearly part of "daily business".
Whenever we arrived at a surf spot at sunrise to take advantage of the morning offshore breeze, or to escape the local ranger's hunting season as wild campers, the line-up was already full of surfers. Looking at the average age, I always wonder if any child in this country has ever been diagnosed with ADHD? At the very least, it seems unlikely that one of the surfing dwarves, inhaling his daily dose of salt water at dawn, will be slipping back and forth on the school desk two hours later, unused to the task.
Windsurfing in Australia, on the other hand, is far from being a popular sport. In addition to the usual reasons, there are also the number and location of the spots: Perth and the immediate surroundings often only offer North Sea-like conditions in addition to good flat water spots. The quality of the wave spots almost follows the principle "the sparser the population, the better the waves".
Gnaraloo is a prime example: when the swell is big, the spot at the southern end of the Ningaloo Reef scores with one of the longest and cleanest waves on the planet. The only thing longer is the ride back to civilisation: it is 160 kilometres to the next settlement, almost half of which is on a sandy road of horror, known as a "gravel road" in Australia. The campsite at Gnaraloo is something of a living museum: in addition to the usual surfing tourists, there are retired permanent campers and drop-outs as well as their caravans and stone houses that have been converted into permanent accommodation. Yes, the spirit of Gnaraloo can be quite captivating and this undoubtedly lends the place a certain tranquillity. The arduous journey also does the rest. Once you arrive, you stay for at least a few days, and a hectic change of spot because the forecast changes is not an issue. We too would have liked to stay longer if our motorhome hadn't turned out to be a decrepit pile of scrap metal right on arrival.
With a new wheel bearing, we finally continued southwards. First 1300 kilometres to Margaret River, soon another 700 to Esperance. The distances in Australia are enormous, the comparatively few windsurfing beaches - to put it mildly - well spread out. But the journey is worth it. The coastline around Esperance is so breathtakingly beautiful that the perfect beach break almost becomes a minor matter. Margaret River, home spot of wave icon Scotty McKercher, lies in the middle of a lush green wine region. The many cafés and pubs in the famous surfing town are almost a culture shock compared to Gnaraloo. The only thing they have in common is that you don't want to leave Margaret River. Due to the exposed location of the bay and a shallow reef plateau, you can count the days of the year when the sets break below three metres on one hand. Although the wind never blows very strongly, it turns on Sideoffshore just in time for the locals' closing time, so a daily evening session is almost always possible. A "daily business" that you could get used to.
Before we become too sedentary, we change our vehicle towards the end of the holiday. Compared to our long-wheelbase Ford Econovan, the 25-year-old Jeep is a bitter loss in terms of living quality. Instead of simply moving to the rear third of the car on the Ikea Sultan mattress, we now have to put up a tent every night or climb onto the roof of the car with our sleeping mat. This is also "daily business" in Australia!
General information:
Journey:
Flights to Perth are offered from numerous German airports (from around 1100 euros depending on the time of travel), a stopover in Abu Dhabi, Bangkok or Dubai is usually standard. Tourists need a visa to enter the country, which can be obtained directly from a travel agency when booking or online at www.border.gov.au can book. Surf baggage currently costs around 90 euros each way (e.g. with Emirates).
surf tipSurfbags: Make sure you confirm and pay for the return flight before you start your journey, otherwise you may have to pay the Australian exorbitant rate!
Climate:
The best time to visit for windsurfers is from October to April. Australia ranges from the latitudes of the tropics to temperate climates, with temperatures and rainfall varying accordingly. In general, it gets hotter and drier on the west coast towards the north. Between December and March, temperatures in the region around Gnaraloo regularly crack the 30 degree mark, while the thermometer in Margaret River and Esperance usually remains at a pleasant 25 degrees. Along the entire west coast, a light onshore wind sets in towards late morning. This so-called "seabreeze" ensures that it is also bearable in the northern climes in summer - at least near the coast. Inland, temperatures can quickly rise to 40 degrees and more. It only gets similarly hot on the coast when there is a complete calm or easterly winds. In midsummer, it therefore makes sense to link your trip to Gnaraloo or Coronation only to a suitable wind forecast so that you don't spend days frying away in the wasteland. A sun tarpaulin is indispensable at many spots; there is no need to rely on natural shade. On the other side of the temperature scale, don't underestimate the fact that it can get chilly in the Australian spring. Even in mid-December, temperatures in the single digits are still possible at night. If you are not staying exclusively in the north at this time, you should therefore bring a long 4/3 neo as well as a thick sleeping bag. From mid-January, a shorty or short-sleeved suit will also be fine in the south, and in Coronation and Gnaraloo even a Lycra shirt will suffice.
Wind and waves:
From the end of November to the end of February, the wind reaches gliding strength almost every day. If you are also prepared to change spots depending on the forecast, you can delete the word "almost" from the previous sentence. In spring and autumn, the wind probability drops significantly. This means that you either get behind the wheel more often or simply grab a wave rider on calm days, as this is usually when the chance of a big swell is greatest. Almost all spots work with "seabreeze", which arises due to the temperature differences between the water and the hot hinterland and usually starts around midday from the south to south-west. The further north you go, the stronger and earlier these thermals set in. In the area around Gnaraloo, the windy season often starts as early as September, with winds often blowing at 25-30 knots. Further south, for example in Margaret River, the wind system only becomes increasingly stable in October/November and the wind here is usually noticeably more moderate at 15-20 knots. A reliable wind forecast for all the main spots can be found at www.seabreeze.com.au . Follow "weather", "Western Australia" and you will find forecasts for the individual regions. If the wind direction matches the respective spot, you can roughly assume that the yellow arrows in the wind forecast are already sufficient for large to medium sail sizes. Red arrows usually don't bode well apart from heat, while green means pressure. A 75-kilo surfer usually uses a 4.2 to 4.5 metre sail during the main wind season in Australia. In Margaret River, it can also be a 4.7 to 5.3. Precise swell forecasts are provided by www.magicseaweed.com
Living & Camping:
If you like package holidays, you don't need to read any further, as a surfer you need a well-equipped camper. 4x4 drive helps to get to all the spots, but is not absolutely necessary. If you google the search term "Camper Perth", you will quickly find what you are looking for, depending on the size and rental period, you will need to budget between 80 and 120 dollars per day. Buying a campervan is a sensible option for longer stays. Used campers and lots of useful accessories can be found on www.gumtree.com.au where you can also get all kinds of useful things for the trip. Wild camping is sometimes tolerated, but sometimes forbidden on pain of a fine; signs should be taken seriously. There are numerous campsites, but you don't have to orientate yourself to European standards. "Campsite" does not always mean that fresh water, showers or a supermarket are available, so you should plan your supplies in advance - also due to the long distances and abundant dead spots in the wilderness.
Surf shops:
Replacement masts and repair materials for boards belong in every well-stocked bag. You can get supplies in:
Perth:
- Surf and Sail Australia www.surfsailaustralia.com.au
Geraldton:
- Geraldton Surf and Sail www.geraldtonsurfandsail.com
Lancelin: Lancelin Surf
- 127 Gingin Rd; Tel: (08)-9655-1441
Margaret River:
- MR Kite- and Windsurfing www.mrkiteandsail.com.au
Esperance:
- Esperance Sail & Surf www.espsailsurf.com.au
Good to know:
Sunshine and UV exposure are unrivalled worldwide, sun protection and water supplies are absolutely essential on all trips. At the spots exposed to the west, it is advisable to go surfing in the afternoon with sunglasses, as the reflections on the water are quite something. A tarpaulin against the sun is also essential. Australia is considered a very safe country to travel to in terms of crime, but the local animals can be dangerous: It is well known that many spots are classified as "sharky", but statistically speaking, there are far greater dangers lurking on land - 20 of the 25 most venomous snake species in the world live in Australia alone, plus all kinds of other creatures such as poisonous scorpions and spiders.
Local tipTo avoid attracting insects into the car, real locals store their supplies in solid boxes outside the camper! The flies known as "blowies", on the other hand, are completely harmless, but on windless days they can get on your last nerve and persistently populate every centimetre of bare and sweaty skin. A hat with an integrated fly net is a sensible investment.
SPOTS Australia
1) Gnaraloo
(Coordinates -23.818052, 113.518998 ): An endless wave in an absolute western atmosphere! With a big swell from the west, various sections combine to form an endless line blown smooth by the sideoffshore wind, which breaks perfectly and like a string of pearls for 15 turns and more. Because the wave is very predictable, you can approach it slowly and surf it quite safely even on mast-high days. Head-high waves still allow two to three turns to leeward, but then break quite round and powerless. After a wash, you drift into a kind of lagoon within the reef belt, where the waves run out harmlessly. Be careful when entering: if you start from the small bay to windward at low tide, you have to drop off briefly but violently to avoid hitting the reef; shoes are recommended! Wild camping is absolutely not possible in Gnaraloo. The ranger regularly checks here, and a campervan is not particularly easy to hide in the barren landscape. The 3-Mile Camp ( www.gnaraloo.com ) is five minutes from the spot, has showers and toilets and costs around 18 dollars a night. There is a small shop where you can buy some basic foodstuffs, but the prices in the outback supermarket are quite high. An off-road vehicle makes the journey over the 80 kilometre gravel road from Carnarvon easier, but is not absolutely necessary. A few kilometres further north in Gnaraloo Bay, you can freeride or do tricks in flat water even in swell. The wind blows diagonally offshore here and irons the water wonderfully smooth.
2) Coronation
(Coordinates -28.552086, 114.564770 ): The most popular spot on the west coast, where local and World Cup pro Jaeger Stone drops in almost daily. The spot is like a fun park for all skill levels: At the front is a mostly shallow lagoon with perfectly flat water, through which the occasional waist-high, organised waves run straight through from the front - perfect for first jumps, loops or the triple-air flaka. On the other hand, the small chops don't even bother novices during power jibe training. Out on the reef there's a wave spot which, depending on the wind and swell, can resemble a bad day in the Baltic or a good day in Tenerife. When the wind shifts from sideshore to offshore in the evening, the waves often become even cleaner. Because the spot is so all-round suitable in addition to having the best wind statistics in Western Australia and a beautiful sandy beach, BBQ area, car parks and infrastructure in the vicinity complete the feel-good package, you are never alone on the water here. The campsite in the immediate vicinity of the spot costs just 7 dollars a night, but overnight stays are limited to 31 days a year per guest. The showers only work with water you have brought with you. Alternatively, there are public showers at the harbour in Geraldton.
3) Geraldton/Sunset Beach
(Coordinates -28.726239, 114.620297 ): The area around Geraldton has several spots to offer: Sunset Beach is suitable as an alternative spot to Coronation. Due to a bend in the coastline, the wind here comes more from the side, also slightly offshore in the south-east. Compared to Coro's, the wave is long and more down-the-line for riding with wind from the left, less good for jumping. However, the wave here is only really fun from medium swell upwards. As it always remains a little choppy, the light wind days are often the better ones here. Rigging lawns with public toilets and showers are available. In Geraldton you can recharge your batteries and get a taste of civilisation before the 500-kilometre trip to Gnaraloo. In the well-stocked surf shop ( www.geraldtonsurfandsail.com ) you can get replacement material.
4) Geraldton/Hells Gate
A few hundred metres north of the small lighthouse is a spot for all those who want to know. Above a shallow reef, the powerful and sometimes hollow breaking left-hand wave "Hells Gate" with the potential for big aerials - or broken masts. In the event of a break, the strong current often pulls you past the harbour and then further downwind at the shallow water spot.St Georges Beachspit out again. Slightly more moderate, but significantly shorter, the wave runs in front of thePoint Mooredirectly in front of the lighthouse.
5) Greenhead
You can often still get a little swell here if there is nowhere else. On the outer reef in front of the small town of Greenhead, the waves usually break higher than in Coronation and the wind is also a tick stronger. When the swell is big, the waves are clean and powerful and allow a few turns to leeward with wind from the left. The only catch: the whole thing takes place quite far off the coast, which is why you shouldn't go out on the water alone. If you're lucky, the only local will also be outside. You start at the harbour pier, then always head towards the white water on the horizon. Even though Greenhead is a wave spot, there are relaxed alternatives here: If the path to the outer reef is too hot for you, you can safely freeride or trick between the starting point at the pier and the reef in a small chop.
6) Cervantes
(Coordinates: -30.510054, 115.058510 ) 364 days a year, Cervantes is a nice beach with relaxed freeride conditions. The easterly wind, which often blows in the morning, is particularly inviting for a safe dip in the crystal-clear, shallow water. Even when the wind shifts at midday and the "seabreeze" sets in from the south to south-west, you can hone your manoeuvres and tricks here on smooth water. There are only waves here when extremely big swells hit the coast and you'll wet your trousers at the usual wave spots. Then there are quite moderate waves in Cervantes, but they run cleanly.
7) Lancelin
(Coordinates -31.025022, 115.328208 ) Although Lancelin is considered a wave spot, shallow water fans will also get wet eyes here. As in Coronation, the path to the reef leads through a large lagoon with shallow water. Even if it is sometimes a little choppier than in Coro's, you can cruise here comfortably and safely or race against some World Cup stars at the annual Lancelin Ocean Classic. Wonderful waves break on the offshore reef, between waist and mast high depending on the swell. As the wind usually blows slightly sideonshore, you can beam over the waves into orbit with an endless run-up - there are few spots in the world that are so suitable for jumping. It's hard to believe, but this is home to the only surf centre on the west coast, "Werner's Hotspot Lancelin" ( www.wernershotspot.blogspot.de ). You can hire wave and freeride equipment from Starboard, Severne and NeilPryde. The surf shop Lancelin Surf (Gingin Rd 127) is also not far from the spot. Lancelin is also ideal for a day trip from Perth if necessary and also scores points with its beautiful sandy beach, large rigging area, public showers and toilets as well as a barbecue area. There are several campsites in and around Lancelin.
8) Perth/Scarborough
(Coordinates: -31.893962, 115.754730 ) The city spot on one of the most popular beaches in the metropolis. The powerful beach break, diagonally onshore wind and the undeniable current are somehow reminiscent of Sylt in a south-westerly wind. Even if "Sylt conditions" are not really the reason to fly to Australia, the combination of surf spot and big city is charming. A rigging area and public toilets and showers are available, although there is often a shortage of parking spaces at weekends.
9) Perth/Swan River
(Coordinates -31.986053, 115.824334 ): On the northern bank of the Swan River, thePelican Point, you can get into the groove in a relaxed atmosphere with a view of the Perth skyline. The easterly wind, which often blows in the morning, is ideal as it blows sideshore and, in combination with the smooth water, is equally interesting for beginners and shallow water fans. The afternoon sea breeze blows onshore onto shallow sandbanks and also provides relaxed freestyle and freeride conditions. The spot opposite on the southern shoreLucky Bay offers a good entry point. Car parks with public toilets are available at both spots, but space on land can be tight at weekends and the rangers are not squeamish when it comes to writing tickets. Surf shop nearby.
10) Perth/Woodman's Point
(Coordinates: -32.133957, 115.750413 ): A perfect playground for heating up and freestyling is located on the southern outskirts of Perth. At North Beach, the wind blows diagonally offshore over the large and flat headland; under land, it's dead calm and smooth as glass. At South Beach on the other side, the seabreeze blows onshore and forms a small chop, but there are quite a few kiters on the water here. However, larger waves or even real swell do not arrive due to the cover provided by the Garden Island off the coast.
11) Perth/Savety Bay
(Coordinates: -32.305056, 115.711431 ) The name says it all here. The crescent-shaped bay 90 minutes south of Perth offers good flat water conditions and onshore winds for everyone. Savety Bay has a large wind window and you can rig up on a meadow belonging to the local yacht club. Toilets and a barbecue area are also on site. If you head out into the bay from the sheltered area behind the sandbank, there are a few small chops for jumping. The kiteshop WA Surf ( www.wasurf.com.au ) rents SUPs and has at least neos and harnesses in its range.
12) Margaret River/Prevelly
(Coordinates: -33.976468, 114.985786 ) The south-western tip of Australia is characterised by green vegetation and pleasant temperatures. It attracts swells like a magnet and is considered the big wave Mecca of the fifth continent. The small town of Margaret River, with a population of 6000, has some amazing spots to offer in the surrounding area: At "Main Break" in the village of Prevelly, "mast-high" is more likely to pass for "small"; the sets are often significantly higher and require experience and courage. The wave sucks itself up abruptly at a narrow point above the reef and has a damn thick lip. Those who get the timing right are rewarded with crashing cutbacks and cheered on by the spectators in the stadium-like car park above the spot. The wind strength doesn't really matter in the "Margs" forecast, the main thing is that the wind pointer is between SSW and SSE. As soon as the wind turns a little more offshore in the evening and the waves become clean, it is rarely strong enough to glide. But you can almost always bob out. Despite the spectacular first turn, the wave shoulder is usually only round on the second turn. There is a rigging area with showers, toilets, a barbecue area and burger stand at the spot, and campsites can be found in the village for around 20 dollars a night. You can get new food for the material-moribund break at "Margaret River Kite- and Windsurfing" ( www.mrkiteandsail.com ). If the waves in "Margs" get too fat, you can go to the less frequented and slightly less breaking outer reef of "Boat ramps", which lies one kilometre to windward.
13) Margaret River/Redgate
Six kilometres south of the main Prevelly spot, things are more relaxed, so it's no shame to head here. Redgate beach is picturesquely framed by rocks and offers more moderate wave conditions. On big days, it can get rough here too, and the rocks to leeward don't exactly help you relax. The best time to go out on the water here is with a small to medium swell.
14) Peaceful Bay Area
The spots on the south coast come to life when the weather-determining high lying south of Australia shifts further eastwards. While the wind then dies down on the west coast, the south coast is fuelled.Freddy's (Coordinates -35.023878, 116.806775 ) is a spot near Peaceful Bay and Nornalup that is still unknown even to those familiar with Australia. 4x4 drive is absolutely necessary to make it over the soft sand to the spot. But it's worth the journey: a fantastic sandy beach, not a soul on the water and glassy, fast-running beach break waves that allow a few turns to leeward. Windswell alone is not enough. To have good waves, you need a swell from the south-west with wind from the south-east to east. Here you can also spend the night directly on the beach - a real windsurfing adventure! A little better known isRame Head (Coordinates: -35.047535, 116.886726 ), a top spot for riding with sideoffshore wind from the left and a powerful beach break.
15) Esperance
The windsurfing pearl in the south! Crystal-clear, turquoise water, white beach, bizarre rocks in the water. Similar to Margaret River, the only thing that matters is the wind direction. Easterly winds come from theObservatory Beach (also called Nine-Mile-Beach; coordinates -33.904268, 121.784304 ) sideoff and slightly stronger than forecast. Unfortunately, without a medium swell (>2m and 13 seconds from the SW) nothing works. But as soon as the beach break gets chest-high, the high-speed down-the-line fun can begin - provided you have some wave experience, as getting out on big days is tricky and the waves are powerful. Those who prefer jumping and moderate breakers can go a little further east, at theFourth Mile Beach with sideonshore from the left with a few other windsurfers. If the swell doesn't materialise, there are still usable wind waves here even when it's flat at the Observatory. Directly in the village, atMain Beachthe water always remains smooth and can be used by intermediates and freeriders at any time.
(Coordinates -33.904268, 121.784304 ): The windsurfing pearl in the south! Crystal-clear, turquoise water, white beach, bizarre rocks in the water. Similar to Margaret River, the only thing that matters here is the wind direction. Easterly winds k
