"Welcome to the hotel of California, such a lovely place, such a lovely face", echoes the Eagles' mistrustful chorus Hotel California. Such a lovely place, such a lovely face - these few words pretty much reflect my idea of California. Or rather my fear - a pretty face without much substance behind it. Nothing but a Hollywood-created appearance of beauty that hides all the dark sides. Leif and I are more than excited to see how the "Hotel" California will welcome us.
Our journey begins in San Francisco, the city of creatives and artists, of music, writers and free spirits. "San Francisco is pure art, especially literary art. Every neighbourhood tells a story, every hill a novella, every house a poem," said the American writer William Saroyan. As easily as these words roll off the tongue, I immerse myself in the spectacle.
With the sun rising behind me, the bus that is to take me from the airport to the car rental office honks its way through the narrow, colourful streets of the city. San Francisco really is so pretty that it's hard to sort out the views from the window. The bus driver doesn't want to continue until I've explained to her exactly where I want to go. When she drops me off right outside the front door a good hour later, I wonder if I really look that stupid and naive. At Lost Camper, I pick up our mobile hotel, which is to drive us across California for the next month and accommodate us at the same time. In my opinion, you miss out on a large part of life on the road if you have to search for a hostel or similar every evening. It takes away your freedom to decide spontaneously where you want to go. Our car has a cosy bed, a camping cooker, sink and roof rack for the windsurfing equipment - in other words, everything we need. The hire company also has good news: The weather over the next few days is set to be better than ever before. He also promises me that it won't rain for the next five months. Somewhat baffled, I jet off to the airport to pick up my travelling companion Leif. From there it's straight to the beach.
Unfortunately, the heatwave that the whole of San Francisco is now talking about has paralysed the wind. Over the next few days, we enjoy the glorious weather, ride the waves off Ocean Beach and get used to the good humour of the Californians. Life here really does seem to be as free of worries as Hollywood suggests. Not just the bus driver who wanted to drive me to the front door, but everyone we meet is extremely friendly. As soon as our German accent is heard, we are in conversation and usually invited for a coffee or barbecue a short time later. People tell us the wildest stories about their city. For example, we find it hard to imagine that summer here is sometimes colder than winter and why the constant fog has its own name!
We are glad that we have booked absolutely nothing in advance on this trip, apart from our car. The rough itinerary is: from San Francisco along the coast to San Diego, just before the Mexican border. We are able to accept most of the invitations and are always amazed at how hospitable the Americans are. From my previous stays in Hawaii, I was actually used to something completely different.
After three days of perfect weather, the wind finally starts to blow. I can hardly believe that I'm suddenly gliding around under the Golden Gate Bridge or with a view of Alcatraz. We rattle off the best flat water spots around San Francisco and get to know the local windsurfing scene a little better. The average age seems to be between 40 and 60, but when it's time to hit the water, everyone is as happy as little kids. The helpfulness of the scene perfectly matches our previous image of Californians and after a short time we have an endless list of "favourite spots" that we absolutely have to check out. But we are hungry for waves and finally want to go windsurfing on the coast, so we head south along the world-famous Highway #1.
Just an hour later, we stop because there are colourful sails on the water. There are a handful of very good windsurfing spots in the area around Santa Cruz, so we take a break here for a few days. Waking up with the first rays of sunshine, surfing, eating avocado sandwiches, napping in the sun, windsurfing, pasta at sunset, sleeping - that's pretty much our daily routine. Wild camping is officially forbidden in California, but it is definitely practicable. We have been sent away a few times or woken up at night by the police, but if we were to travel to California again, we wouldn't do anything differently. Leif and I agree on that.
As we stand at the airport in Los Angeles four weeks later and say goodbye to California, Leif and I ponder what the Eagles might have meant with their mistrustful refrain. Although you can see signs here and there of drug and alcohol problems, excessively strict laws, crime and the other madness of the Americans, we found the majority of the people to be very welcoming with a warm soul beneath the pretty façade. We can therefore confirm neither the opinion of the Eagles nor the image of California portrayed by Hollywood. As I read through these lines, I realise that I myself am failing miserably to convey an appropriate impression of this corner. Perhaps this is simply impossible and you have to experience California for yourself. Yes, it will be!
If you want to give it a try, we have listed the most important "sights" below. Otherwise, we have a clear recommendation: Always follow your nose!
General information:
Wind, weather, neoprene & travelling time:The same area of high pressure that ventilates the Hawaiian Islands in summer with constant trade winds provides a similarly constant air flow in California. From April to October, a north-westerly wind of around four to five Beaufort blows along large parts of the Californian coast, which can continue to strengthen depending on local conditions. As soon as the coastal fog, also known as Karl, subsides during the morning, the wind regularly blows at 15 to 30 knots, with the strongest winds between May and September. Temperatures on the coast are moderate all year round, with the air temperature averaging between 15 degrees in January and 22 degrees in August. The water temperature also fluctuates within this range, so a warm wetsuit should always be in your luggage.
Journey/material transport:There are plenty of flights to LA or San Francisco, from as little as 600 euros. When booking, be sure to check the airlines' baggage conditions. It is advisable to bring your own equipment, as windsurfing is not very widespread in the USA, so there are hardly any hire centres!
Living & Camping:The best way to travel the country is with a camper van. These are available from 700 euros per month, but the fuel costs of around four dollars per gallon, the equivalent of 80 euro cents per litre, are kept within reasonable limits. You can travel in luxury in so-called motorhomes - fat American camper vans that are usually equipped with a shower and all the bells and whistles and can accommodate up to six people. Numerous offers can be found under the keyword "Camper California". Costs: from 900 euros/month. You can stay overnight in the numerous state parks along Highway #1. Disadvantage: Quite expensive (from 50 dollars/night) and parking is often very tight.
Good to know:America is the land of credit cards, even if it's just for chewing gum! The cost of living in California is a little more expensive than in Germany, but affordable. Shoes and clothes are much cheaper than in Europe, so you can definitely arrive with an empty travelling bag and leave with a full one. Make sure you take out international health insurance, hospital treatment can quickly become very expensive! It is often much quicker and cheaper to be treated by doctors in private practice. Traffic offenders can be very expensive, so take your foot off the accelerator and enjoy the view. Drinking alcohol in public can also be expensive with a fine of 1000 to 4000 dollars. A good beer is hard to find anyway. Although there are usually 80 different types of beer in the supermarket, good luck finding the one!
Windsurfing in California - these are the best spots
1) California - San Francisco Bay Area:
1) Crissy Fields
The Golden Gate Bridge not only connects the big city with the vastness of the Lost Coast, you can actually windsurf underneath it - where San Francisco Bay meets the Pacific Ocean and tankers and cargo ships sail in and out. If you want to glide past this impressive backdrop, head for the small stretch of beach at Crissy Fields, just south of the bridge. There is a free car park here with a meadow, perfect for rigging up. The entrance is via a well-frequented bathing beach. A little caution is required on the water, as the tide plays a decisive role: when the water is ebbing, the current pulls towards the open Pacific and when the water is rising, it pulls into the bay. In addition, the wind in Crissy Fields is relatively unstable and you should always keep a good distance from the boats. However, with a constant wind forecast, the right tide and a little caution, every windsurfing day here is an experience you won't forget in a hurry!
Our tip: In the last two hours before low tide, the current still works against the wind. Even if there is a sudden lull, you can easily get back ashore when the tide comes in.
2) Treasure Island
Treasure Island is very popular with the San Francisco windsurfing scene due to its constant and strong winds. But the name is deceptive: you won't only find treasures on the island. We were surprised by the barracks-like buildings, as well as the many fences and warning signs. A local explained to us that the island used to be used to dismantle ships that had previously been stationed in the Pacific during nuclear tests. At the turn of the millennium, a favourable residential area was created on the military base. Now researchers have been able to measure radioactive radiation well above the existing limits and the future of the island is once again uncertain - and with it the future of the windsurfing spot on Treasure Island, access to which had already been temporarily closed. The real treasure is not to be found on the island, but directly in front of it: constant, strong winds, with a view of the former prison island of Alcatraz and the Golden Gate Bridge. Water flows against the wind, making it easier to run upwind and building up decent chop for jumps. Even if the wind is very steady, you shouldn't go out on the water alone, as there is nothing coming for a few kilometres in any direction. The spot is located in the north-east of the island, right by the small jetty. The entry is via stones and is not necessarily comfortable. More suitable for experienced windsurfers!
3rd Avenue (3) and Coyote Point (4)
For beginners, 3rd Avenue (3) near San Mateo is much friendlier than Crissy Fields and Treasure Island (and windier to boot). The spot is located south of the airport, directly behind an old baseball field and offers a beautiful sandy beach for launching and plenty of space on the water. There is a relaxed atmosphere in the car park, and after surfing the locals like to have a barbecue or a beer. The wind is usually strongest in the early afternoon. Coyote Point (4) is located just a few kilometres to the north and offers similar beginner-friendly conditions and a small rental station with a shop ( www.boardsportsschool.com ). Shipping traffic is not a major problem here. Again, the same applies here: the flowing water builds up ramps and makes it easier to go upstream, but overall the current here is much weaker than in Crissy Fields.
5) Rio Vista/Sherman Island
From San Francisco, you drive around 75 kilometres along Interstate 80E via Oakland towards California's capital Sacramento until you turn off to Sherman Island in the river delta. The Delta Windsurf Shop is located directly on the river ( www.deltawindsurf.com ) and a little further on the Rio Viento campsite ( www.rioviento.com ), which is inhabited almost exclusively by windsurfers. Due to its similarity to the River Gorge in Oregon, Rio Vista is also known as the "Mini Gorge". You can get in directly at the campsite or a little further upwind at Sherman Island County Park. South-westerly winds accelerate up the river delta and can be enough for even the smallest wave sail. However, the classic wind forecast is not the measure of all things here. An expert told us that the coast around San Francisco has to be cool and the inland around Sacramento warm, then there is guaranteed to be wind! The spot has some special features in terms of currents, boat traffic and entry.
Our tip: Drive to the campsite and ask if someone can explain the spot to you. The scene is really happy to welcome foreign windsurfers and will explain the meaning of every single stone. Don't forget to do your shopping beforehand - there's not much on the island apart from wind turbines and cows.
Surfing tip: Ocean Beach
Ocean Beach is famous for its world-class conditions, especially among surfers, not only in San Francisco but all over the world. The waves break big and hollow on the three-kilometre-long sandy beach. You should definitely stop by here and soak up the unique atmosphere of Californian surf culture.
2) Santa Cruz Area:
About an hour's drive south of San Francisco, the coastal fog finally lifts and allows the north-westerly wind to blow through. The wind often starts around midday, reaches 15 to 25 knots and lasts until late afternoon. The waves come either from the north-west or the south and usually break with a size of one to two metres. South swells travel thousands of miles through the South Pacific before breaking clean and orderly. Set intervals can be more than twenty minutes due to their distant origin. Northwest swells originate more locally in the North Atlantic and do not break quite as close-out due to their direction.
6) Gazos Creek
On the way south on Highway #1, three kilometres south-east of the Pigeon Point lighthouse, you first come across Gazos Creek. The spot is relatively unknown, as the wind here is usually somewhat fickle and blows diagonally onshore. The waves also break big and hollow on a shallow sandbank. However, when the wind is a little more northerly, the conditions here are excellent and even allow down-the-line waveriding with several turns. The wave is relatively difficult to judge and the last section is a classic mast destroyer. Depending on the tide, there are also rocks hiding just below the surface. So be careful!
7) Waddell Creek
In the Santa Cruz area, Waddell Creek is probably the best-known spot for windsurfers and kiters alike - and this is noticeable on the water. The venue of the American Windsurf Tour (AWT) offers sideonshore conditions à la North and Baltic Sea with wind from the right. Waddell is a moderate wave spot with no rocks in the water and plenty of space. However, the car park is not very comfortable - hardly sheltered from the wind and with coarse gravel.Our tip: Let the kiters have fun and head a few kilometres further to Scott's Creek or Davenport!
8) Scott's Creek
Scott's Creek is located just a few kilometres south of Waddell. An insider tip from the locals, because unlike Waddell Creek, the water is much emptier here and the waves break cleaner, especially when it gets big, and are perfect for riding with sideshore winds from the right. Scott's Creek is always worth a try if the other spots in the area are not ideal.
9) Davenport Landing
Our favourite spot because the waves are the best here and kiters are consistently not tolerated. Just north of the village of Davenport, the small road "Davenport Landing" leads directly to the spot. Here you can rig up on a wind-protected meadow in a beautiful natural setting and then go for two breaks. The upper wave runs directly behind the cliff and is strongly covered by the wind. Especially when it gets a bit bigger, you can still experience some very nice down-the-line wave rides here. The spot downwind is easier to surf - the wind blows more consistently here, the wave runs quite harmlessly along a reef plate and allows several turns. If you do break or the wind switches off, there are three small sandy bays in the lee where you can easily land and there is a surf shop nearby for supplies ( www.davenportsurfsail.com ). If you have some experience in the waves, you can experience a perfect day of windsurfing here and then go for a cosy meal in Davenport and enjoy the sunset.Our tip: You can have fun here even with small waves. Don't forget the evening session - the wind often blows a little longer in Davenport.
10) Natural Bridges
If the wind only gets going south of Davenport, you can head to Natural Bridges. The spot is located directly in Santa Cruz, around the corner from the world-famous Steamer Lane surf spot. The parking situation is not ideal and you either pay 10 dollars for the whole day or you have a long walk ahead of you. It's a bit gusty on the water and the waves break smaller than at the spots further north. However, if all the other spots get too big and are no longer rideable, Natural Bridges is worth a try.
3) California - Morro Bay Area
One of the most beautiful coastal roads in the world stretches between Monterey and Pismo Beach. Even if the section is less than 100 kilometres long, you should plan at least half a day for it. Better still, spend the night in Big Sur and hike through the overwhelming nature.
Overnight tip: Morro Dunes RV Park: Cool location and quite cheap (from 30 dollars/night). Info at www.morrodunes.com
11) Arroyo Laguna
Just when you start to feel sick from all the bends and the steep cliffs come to an end, you reach Arroyo Laguna. With a view of Hearst Castle, "America's only castle", you will find the very best wave conditions here. There is a meadow where you can set up comfortably - then choose one of the two breaks. The leeward wave in particular breaks in an organised and powerful manner and is a dream when the swell is coming from the south or northwest. Nevertheless, you should watch out for the rocks, which can sometimes take their toll. The locals really appreciate the beautiful nature here, so respectful behaviour is more than appropriate! Apart from that, you only have to share the spot with loads of sea lions - and where there are sea lions, sharks are usually not far away. If the wind is too weak or the waves don't come in, you can always visit Hearst Castle. Wild camping is not so popular here. A campsite is a must.
12) Pismo Beach
The pretty town of Pismo Beach is rather unknown to windsurfers. The wind here is usually weaker than in Arroyo and is quite onshore, with a tendency to blow from the right. In return, there is an endless sandy beach without rocks. If there is not enough wind, you can relax here, eat an ice cream and enjoy the Californian sun.
Our tip: Not far from Pismo is San Luis Obispo, "America's happiest city". All we can say is: the good humour is contagious!
13) Lake Lopez
Lake Lopez is located around twenty minutes inland from Pismo. The bathing lake not only boasts great nature, but also a constant wind. The rule of thumb is: when fog blocks the wind off the coast, it blows at Lake Lopez and you can expect fantastic freeride conditions.
14) Jalama
For the last twenty minutes, the road meanders south of a large military base through no man's land. Arriving at the ocean, there is nothing but a campsite - and wind, even a lot of wind! The actual name means "land of the strong wind" to the Indians who once lived here on the coast. Due to the cape and the local sea temperatures and currents, the wind is not only incredibly strong, but also very fickle. So one minute you want a 5.3 sail and the next you would be well served with a 3.7. The wind generally starts onshore in the morning and then turns offshore towards the evening. The waves can get very big here due to the exposed location and break powerfully and quickly. Rarely have I surfed a wave that was as difficult to read as this one. If the timing doesn't work out again and you've broken your equipment, you can console yourself with a pretty good "Indian Land" burger. All in all, the campsite offers a very fair deal: a day pitch costs 10 dollars and including overnight stay you pay 28 dollars. If you want to enjoy the impressive landscape a little longer, you should pack enough food so that you don't have to rely on the local kiosk.
15) Leo Carillo
If you leave Central California and continue along the south coast, the wind drops off abruptly. You will rarely find favourable conditions for windsurfing between Santa Barbara and Los Angelos. The wind must be strong and should come from the west. Leo Carillo is the first port of call for windsurfers from Los Angelos. The spot needs south swell and high water, otherwise the waves break too far out. When wind and waves come together, you can slice a clean and powerful wave in Leo's with wind from the right. The start is at the northern car park of the State Beach, a buoy divides the spot into a part for surfers and a part for windsurfers.
There is also a real Hollywood feeling, as there is a beach around the corner where several films have been shot. When we were out on the water, a helicopter was constantly circling around us, filming beach scenes for the new "Fast and the Furious". After a day of surfing, a sandwich at Trancas Market is a must! South of Los Angelos, there is unfortunately virtually no wind, but there are good surf spots every few kilometres and fantastic places and beaches that you shouldn't miss. Have fun!
