A direct flight from Hanover to Boa Vista! After around five hours we fly over the Canary Islands and a further two hours later we are already approaching the island of Boa Vista. We are looking forward to trade winds, white sandy beaches, turquoise-coloured water, summer temperatures and a friendly, lively and accessible culture! This is my fifth trip to the Cape Verde Islands, but so far I've always been to Sal, which has become world-famous thanks to Ponta Preta, the spot with world-class waves.
Our TUI plane lands on Boa Vista in the late morning and within ten minutes we are at our accommodation Ca Nicola in the small town of Sal Rei. On the recommendation of Felix Quadfaß from Planet Allsports, we deliberately decided against a larger all-inclusive hotel in favour of a small, family-run accommodation with a view of the beach, where we could go into town for dinner every evening and get to know the country and its people a little.
Before we started our journey, the people around us were not really familiar with the destination "Boa Vista" ("where is that?"). Some background information: Cape Verde consists of a total of nine inhabited and other uninhabited islands of volcanic origin and is located around 1,500 kilometres south of the Canary Islands and 500 kilometres west of the African coast. Our destination Boa Vista measures around 30 by 55 kilometres and offers beautiful, sometimes endless sandy beaches. Due to the year-round drought, virtually nothing grows on this island, which mostly consists of rocky deserts and sand dunes. When we drive across the island in our pick-up, we hardly see any villages or people, just endless stretches of stone and lots of soft sand.
Wingfoiling on Boa Vista
Yes, even days beforehand we kept checking the wind forecast, which predicted a constant trade wind - daily 15-23 knots from the north-east made the anticipation very high! In fact, the trade wind belt is located at the height of the Canary Islands in the summer months and then moves to the height of the Cape Verde Islands in the winter months. While the Canary Islands sometimes have stronger trade winds in winter, typically over three or four days and up to 30 knots at the peak, the trade winds spoil Cape Verde with constant and moderate wind conditions from November to April. According to our own experience, the months of January to April in particular are considered to be very wind-safe, although the average wind force is 15-20 knots, rarely more.
After less than a five-minute walk, we have already arrived at our base, the Planet Allsports centre. If you are staying in Sal Rei, Planet Allsports is the closest centre, while the centres further south are longer distances away. Right next to the centre is the Tortuga restaurant and beach club, with a few sunbeds and parasols for non-surfers.
In front of the station, the water conditions are quite smooth on the majority of days. Of course, because the wind here blows offshore from the town of Sal Rei, so that the water is really flattened. And only on a few days, i.e. with a north-westerly or even westerly swell, do long waves push so deep into the bay that clean waves run in at good intervals. The shorebreak in front of the Planet Allsports centre is mostly harmless because the small island of Ilheu de Sal Rei is located off the coast, making it easy to get in even for less experienced wingfoilers.
In the first 200-300 metres before the station it is actually very gusty and planing is only possible if you catch exactly one gust. But it can also happen that you get out of the foiling again in the first part of the large bay if you haven't dropped a piece of space sheet straight away. The further downwind you go, the more constant the wind becomes. However, the bay of Sal Rei is by no means the only spot on the island - you can find all the important information below.
The wingfoil spots on Boa Vista
1 Liowa
Liowa (the "lioness") runs so typically, because she builds up (almost) every day shortly after entering the harbour and then breaks for the first time in the middle of the wave after maybe 100 metres. It only breaks at the top of the wave crest and although it is certainly not slow, it just has less pressure. Perfect for waving, isn't it!
The wave then continues(!) to break again after another 100 metres in the best case scenario. However, the force of the wave has then diminished. Only on days with a big swell can the peaks break powerfully and hollow, "but that's exactly when you can easily and safely stay out as a wingfoiler," adds Gabriel, head of the Planet Allsports centre. On the plus side, the wave can be skirted very safely on the left and right when travelling out, because what still arrives at the edges is a bit of swell and nothing more. For wingfoil pro and 2023 wave world champion Wesley Brito, Liowa is the "house wave", i.e. the wave he can be found on almost every day.
2nd bay of Sal Rei
However, if we go a little further down the large bay, then further down, just above the island of Ilhéu de Sal Rei, we can still expect gusty winds, but they are a little more constant and are good enough for many wingfoilers to freeride and learn manoeuvres.
3rd Ilhéu de Sal Rei
A little further down, the beautiful beach of Ilhéu de Sal Rei awaits us! This shallow, small bay with its fine white sand and beautiful turquoise water is another "holiday on holiday" for us. You are almost always alone on the water here. We get out here to take a look at the old fortress. It was built around 200 years ago with a few cannons to protect the island's salt production from pirate attacks.
4th Morabeza Beach
We continue down past the large dune to the Duotone Pro Centre and Kitekriol stations further downwind. The wind is always freer here and on some days the water is smoother, making it a good place to learn manoeuvres. And there are kiters on the water here, at least in front of the DPC and Kitekriol centres, because the wind is quite steady. Kitesurfing courses are also held here. We have experienced days here when only some swell waves come in, but on the other hand there is always more shorebreak here, which doesn't make it any easier to get out on the water with the wingfoil equipment. And while the Atlantic waves in front of these centres are even more moderate, on some days there are waves with a shorebreak in front of the two Riu hotels further down that can be quite a challenge. According to reports, there are more days with a full shorebreak here.
Alternative spots on Boa Vista
Farol de Morro Negro
We hire a 4x4 pickup to explore the island and get to know a spot with sideshore wind and a few waves. We drive for a good hour along roads that are paved at best, before returning to the spot to enjoy the beautiful water colours, bright sandy beaches and this never-ending trade wind, which today is blowing at around 20 knots. Further to windward, there is a stretch of smoother water and further down, as the tide drops, a wave builds up, some of it clean and perhaps a metre high. Apart from us, there are already two wingfoilers and about ten German and French kitesurfers on the water.
Outside Reef ("English Reef")
There is also the Outside Reef, also known as the "English Reef", two kilometres from the coast. However, the waves there only break from a height of around three metres. It can be up to six metres high, barrels very powerfully and also has a very fat lip! This spot is only recommended for absolute wave pros and even they should only go here with a boat escort.
Boa Vista - general information
Climate & neoprene recommendations
The tropical, dry climate, which is determined by the north-east trade winds, has around 350 days of sunshine a year. In the winter months, the daytime temperature is around 23-25 degrees and the water is 21 degrees. Even in the coolest months of January and February (which is also winter here), temperatures rarely fall below 18 degrees Celsius at night. We recommend a 3/2 wetsuit (either as a shorty or with long arms and legs) for the months of November and December and a 4/3 wetsuit for the months of January to April. The trade wind blows very reliably between November and April, with a wind ratio of between 60 and 80 per cent.
Shafts
The best waves are from December to February. The swell frequency decreases in March and especially in April. The prevailing swell direction in winter, which works all along the west coast, is north-west. If a north-east swell comes in, the waves run on the east coast. If the swell direction, period and height are right, world-class waves break on Boa Vista.
Stations
- Planet-Allsports-Station: planetallsports. com/en/destinations/boavista-cape-verdeas
- Windclub: windclubfg.info The centre also offers windsurfing. Tip: The terrace of the wind club bar is a great place to round off the day with a drink together with like-minded water sports enthusiasts. You can admire the sunset and the skimboard action of the locals.
- Kitezone Bubista
- Windsports Centre: windsportscenter.com/lessons
- Duotone Pro Centre: dpc-boavista.com
- Kite Kriol: www.kitekriol.com
Tour operator
Security
We felt safe on the island at all times. There was no perceptible crime, and two police officers were constantly present at all possible points. Of course, safety is a very important point in these offshore winds: the staff at Planet Allsports Station are constantly keeping an eye on their customers, i.e. all the wingfoilers and windsurfers who go out on the water wearing striking pink shirts and are therefore recognisable on the water. We often see the staff intensively scanning the spots with binoculars in order to be able to rescue any customers who may have had an accident. The centre is equipped with motorboats that can go out immediately in such cases. In our opinion, this is done very conscientiously by the centre. We cannot speak for the safety of other centres further south at this point, but we have observed that they also use motorboats.
Rental car
We recommend 4x4 pick-ups in order to be able to move around without getting stuck. The costs are around 70-80 euros/day.
Restaurants & evening programme
The culinary offer is not large, but nevertheless varied and very good. If you like fresh fish and seafood, you're in good hands here. You can also get pizzas, meat and pasta. Our favourites are the centrally located restaurants Sodade, Bowlavista (under German management) and Té Manché (fish!) in Sal Rei. If you're hungry during the day, we recommend the Toca da Garoupa next to the Planet station, which is run by an Italian woman. Cape Verdeans love to dance and party. Music is always playing somewhere and is part of everyday life. Boa Vista is not a party island, and yet there is always somewhere to party in Sal Rei.
Money/costs
The prices in simple restaurants and guesthouses are quite favourable. However, everyday products are not, as almost everything has to be imported. The local currency is the Cape Verde escudo (CVE). The exchange rate is 1 euro = 100 CVE, and you can pay everywhere (!) with euros. Employees in restaurants, food and clothing shops earn around 250 euros a month.
