Spot Guide: Southern Sweden – Perfect spots for beginners and pros in Skåne
Kristoffer Living
· 04.06.2023
How could I have been so blind? It’s like the famous description in *The Alchemist* of the ‘secret of a fulfilled life’: the wise man gives the boy a spoon with a few drops of oil in it, which he is to carry with him as he walks through a palace. ‘The secret of happiness is to see all the wonders of the world and never forget the drops of oil on the spoon.’ Well, it seems I was focusing solely on the drops of oil in the spoon and forgot to look at the palace. So, basically, I think what we’re describing in this story (and in the pictures) is what a boy (or a tourist) would see if he were visiting this place for the first time. With his eyes wide open.
We – the brilliant photographer Robert Almqvist and I – took quite a while to decide whether we should take on this commission. I was feeling a bit stuck and uninspired when it came to writing about places I know only too well – and Robert hadn’t been to Skåne that often, so he couldn’t really know. When we finally got going, we started driving around the coast, looking for beautiful, exotic spots to showcase Skåne in all its splendour to the readers of surf magazine.
Where could we find them? Are the places and spots really exotic, remote or beautiful enough? Are we capable of delivering? I mean, I grew up here; I’ve got family and friends here. And I’ve been travelling up and down the coast in search of wind for about 25 years. But I can’t really say that I found the area particularly fascinating. Until we started to see it through new eyes – through the eyes of a little boy or a traveller seeing these places for the first time.
What can I say? I’ve rediscovered my surfing home and come to appreciate its charm and diversity. So yes, the spots in Skåne are exotic enough; some are quite remote and they’re definitely beautiful. So our mission is accomplished: we’re taking you to the best spots in my home region and giving you the chance to explore them for yourselves.
The best windsurfing spots in southern Sweden for experts and beginners
1. Skälderviken
The bay, which cuts deep into the mainland just outside Ängelholm, offers a wide variety of conditions – from wave surfers to complete beginners, there’s something for everyone here. The northern part of the bay is more suited to wave surfers, with the waves usually onshore and relatively mushy, but also fairly safe (1 to 1.5 metres). The best spots for advanced wave surfers are towards Torekov at the northern end of the bay. Unlike the rest of the bay, the coastline here is rocky. In the southern part, near the village of Skälderviken, on the other hand, you’ll find a beautiful sandy beach with pine forests and a campsite right by the water (rabockacamping.se). The surrounding area, with its old wooden houses, sand dunes, numerous attractions and good restaurants, is well worth a longer stay. The shallow beaches around Ängelholm are ideal for beginners and those looking to improve their skills. Wind direction: Generally speaking, there’s a good spot in the bay for almost every wind direction, but good waves only form when the wind is from the south-west or north-west. Water conditions: With an easterly wind, the water is flat almost everywhere; large waves break towards Torekov and Båstad when the wind is westerly. For more information, visit: bastadcamping.se
2. Lundakrabugten
At the southern end of Lundakra Bay, you’ll find a gently sloping, fine sandy beach with clear water and a large shallow area where you can stand. Sometimes, particularly in the northern part of the bay, the water can even get too shallow at low tide. It’s just a stone’s throw from the Malmö–Helsingborg motorway to the spot where Barsebäckstrand campsite is located – you can head straight out onto the water from the campsite. This spot also benefits from good thermal lift, particularly in spring. This works particularly well with north-westerly and south-easterly winds. Generally speaking, a wide wind window ranging from south-east to north makes Lundakrabugten good for surfing. Conditions are typically flat water with a slight chop (depending on wind direction and strength). The seabed is mostly sandy, but can be a bit muddy in places. Campsite: barsebackstrandscamping.se, Food: barsebackshamnkrog.se
3. Lomma/Habo Ljung
Habowaii! OK, so I’m a bit biased here. This is where I live, where I met my wife – and where my family and friends live. But when the weather’s nice, it really is just like Hawaii (minus the waves). There’s a steady ‘trade wind’ outside the reef (sandbank), so the inner part is sheltered from chop and currents. There’s an active and ever-growing surfing culture. Lomma/Habo Ljung has become one of Sweden’s most popular water sports beaches – and for good reason: easy access (though increasingly crowded due to its proximity to Malmö), a long, sandy beach, and shallow water stretching out to about 300 metres. Added to this is thermally enhanced wind from the north-west and south-east. There is also good infrastructure, including campsites, bars, restaurants and other leisure activities.
Lomma is the perfect spot for beginners, freeriders, speed freaks and freestylers, and works in all wind directions – though it can be particularly gusty onshore when the wind is from the east. Caution: do not ride outside the outer reef when the wind is offshore! Thermal gusts in the south-east and north-west. Water conditions: usually flat to very flat (depending on the water level); can get a bit choppy with a westerly wind. Camping: lommacamping.se, Food: slaktaren.nu, Shop/Hire: Lomma Beach Windsurfing Club has some equipment available for hire, mostly for beginners. Information: lommavindsurfing.se
4. Klagshamn
Just a few kilometres south of the famous Öresund Bridge lies THE spot for speed, freeride and freestyle – when the sun is shining and high-pressure conditions prevail, especially with easterly winds. It is at this spot (and Habo Ljung) that many windsurfers from southern Sweden have covered their first few metres on a windsurf board and performed their first jibes. The shallow water warms up quickly and shimmers in lovely green-blue hues. In good weather, easterly winds are further boosted by thermal effects. The large, shallow area is particularly well-suited to beginners and those looking to improve their skills.
However, parking is limited, so please respect the parking rules of the local windsurfing club. Best wind directions: east/south/west (thermal boost with an easterly wind), water conditions: flat with an easterly wind and in the south-west (at low tide). Camping: firstcamp.se/destination/sibbarp-malmo. It’s not the campsite closest to the spot, but it’s lovely. It’s also near the Viking Museum, which is always worth a visit.
5. Näset
Falsterbo, Skanör, Ljunghusen, Höllviken = NÄSET! The hammer-shaped peninsula between Malmö and Trelleborg is also known as ‘the Swedish Hamptons’. Thanks to its location and shape, it offers several fantastic freeride, freestyle and wave spots all within a very small area. The south-western tip of Skåne is beautiful and has a very cheerful and sophisticated atmosphere, with pine trees, white sand and ‘bad hytter’ (little beach huts) in bright colours. You know you’re approaching Näset when the cars look expensive and the houses even more so. But there’s a good spot here for every wind direction.
The peninsula has beautiful, sandy beaches and is bathed in wonderful light that makes the water sparkle. The easterly wind is amplified by thermal effects here, much to the delight of freeriders and freestylers on the flat northern side. On the southern side, you can also find some pretty good wave conditions. In Falsterbo, there’s a large campsite near the beach. The downside of this wonderful peninsula: it gets very busy from June to August. Particularly in early July – when an international horse show takes place in Falsterbo every year – the area is completely fully booked. But even at other times, parking is limited – though there are some great bars and restaurants. Camping: falsterboresort.se
6. Mossby Beach
The spot is situated near the small, authentic fishing village of Abbekås, about 15 kilometres west of Ystad. As a laid-back wave spot with plenty of space, it’s also well suited to less experienced wave surfers and beginners; when there’s a strong easterly wind, Mossby is ideal for jumping. The waves are usually between one and one-and-a-half metres high, though on good days they can reach two-and-a-half metres. On such days in particular, you should expect some current near the shore, and the easterly wind is often further intensified by thermal effects. Good wave conditions can also occur with a south-westerly wind. However, the easterly wind provides the best sideshore conditions.
A huge car park right on the beach, where you’re also allowed to park your caravan, adds to the relaxed atmosphere at the spot. The beautiful sandy beach is also ideal for a family day out by the sea when the sea is calm, and Abbekås has good restaurants to suit every taste. On the way from Malmö to Mossby, it’s well worth making a detour to Anita på Börringe Kloster with its café and restaurant (anitaz.se). I’d also highly recommend Bongska Huset, right by the harbour in Abbekås – a very authentic pub, café and restaurant. Details: bongskahuset.se
7. Österlen
Österlen (or rather the south-eastern corner of Skåne) is often referred to as ‘Cold-water Bali’ – and is well known and much loved for its magical summer light. This region has become the epicentre of southern Sweden’s alternative lifestyle community. A relaxed atmosphere, good food, great beaches and a fantastic vibe. But it seems it’s becoming a bit too popular in the summer, as complaints from locals are becoming increasingly frequent. Parking can be a problem at popular beaches. So please be considerate, especially during the peak season (mid-July to mid-August). The spots between Kåsaberga and Kivik feature strong currents, deep (cold) water and powerful waves, so they’re only suitable for experienced wave surfers. Generally speaking, you’ll always find a good wave spot along this stretch of coast for almost all wind directions (except north-west). However, you’ll need to drive a bit to find the perfect sideshore spot depending on the wind direction. Thanks to the stunning scenery, beaches and sights, it’s well worth a visit even for non-surfers – especially in the early and late seasons when it’s quieter. Camping: kivikscamping.se, loderupscamping.se
8. Ringsjön
This inland lake is very much underrated. This is where I learnt to windsurf, and it often offers excellent freeride conditions. It’s a particularly good option when the warm south-westerly winds fail to materialise along the coast. In summer, particularly when there are south-westerly and easterly winds, strong land thermals build up, creating perfect freeride conditions. The landscape around the lake is also very beautiful, although in summer there are the much-dreaded swarms of midges. The Ringsjönstrand campsite is situated right on the lakeshore. Here, the easterly wind is a bit gusty but usually strong. North-westerly and westerly winds work best at the campsite, whilst Fulltofta is most enjoyable in south-westerly or southerly winds. But generally speaking, there’s always a wind direction that works somewhere around the lake – except in winter, when it’s frozen over. Camping: www.ringsjostrand.se
Spot Information: Southern Sweden
General information
Skåne, known as Schonen in German, is Sweden’s southernmost province. It encompasses virtually the entire southern peninsula of the kingdom, stretching from Båstad in the west to just short of Sölvesborg in the east. The north-western part juts out into the open waters of the Kattegat, whilst the remaining western section, from Helsingborg to Malmö, is sheltered by the Danish island of Zealand. In contrast, the southern and eastern parts are relatively exposed to the Arkonasee and Hanö Bay. The windsurfing conditions vary accordingly. You can find a good overview of the regions, complete with plenty of practical information, at: visitskane.com/en
How to get there
There are many ways to get to Skåne. Depending on which part you’re heading for, there are various routes. If you want to explore the southern part, you can take the ferry from Travemünde or Rostock to Trelleborg (TT-Lines). The journey time from Travemünde is nine to ten hours; prices, including a car and two passengers, start at around 150 euros – depending on the departure date. You can also take the ferry from Sassnitz on Rügen to Trelleborg (frs-baltic.com). The ferry journey from Sassnitz takes just over two and a half hours, and fares also start at 150 euros, including the car. The best way to reach the Malmö region is via Fehmarn, taking the ferry to Rødby in Denmark (scandlines.de (from 50 euros) and then across the impressive Öresund Bridge near Copenhagen, which is subject to a toll (car: 54 euros, motorhome: 108 euros). Those planning to visit the northern part of the region should opt for the short ferry crossing from Helsingør in Denmark to Helsingborg. Scandlines also offers discounted combined tickets for these ferries (or ferry plus bridge).
Wind and weather
The wind conditions are excellent throughout the region all year round. However, in terms of temperature, the months from November to April are really only for the hardy surfers. Water temperatures reach a maximum of 20 degrees in summer. In spring and autumn, they tend to be in the low double figures – which means you should make sure to pack a wetsuit between three and six millimetres thick. Thermal swells are common at numerous spots, particularly in spring and summer. We’ll go into more detail about this in the spot descriptions.
Shops and schools
There is certainly a thriving surfing scene in southern Sweden; we’ll also be looking in more detail at the region’s clubs and shops in the spot descriptions.
Accommodation and Camping
Sweden’s right of public access allows you to spend the night in a tent or campervan even outside of campsites. However, this does not mean you should set up camp permanently in the countryside. Up to two nights’ stay are tolerated in places where it is not expressly prohibited. There are also numerous campsites near the spots. You’ll find the addresses in the spot descriptions. And, of course, there are plenty of holiday homes along the coast.
