Both are professional windsurfers and started their careers on Lake Garda. In keeping with their status, their wallets were usually empty in the early days, even before they had crossed the Brenner Pass. However, this did not harm their ingenuity. The Lake Garda experts give you ten tips for an affordable mix of dolce vita and outdoor adventures.
Let's be honest - a long weekend on Lake Garda usually takes place between Torbole and Riva, with the last steep bend and the way down to the water you join the Lago rhythm: find a parking space, breakfast, north wind surfing, cappuccino, find a parking space, south wind session, cappuccino two, eat pizza and then go to the wind bar for a beer. Of course you can have fun this way, but maybe some of the following tips will help you get to know your old "mate Lago" again, discover other places even after your tenth stay and save you the odd trip to the cash machine.
In this article:
1. hiking...
...for the palate
Al Pra - Gardola: The general rule on Lake Garda is: the stronger and longer the north wind in the morning, the more restrained the south wind in the afternoon. After a good session in Al Pra or Campione, I therefore often give myself the Ora and take advantage of the fact that many hiking routes start directly from the western shore spots, such as the 260 to Tignale. The trail starts in the courtyard of the Al Pra guesthouse at the end of the olive grove.
We recommend a first stop at the café on the market square in Oldesio, a village just outside Gardola. The patisserie tempts you with its legendary brioche con crema and other pastry specialities. From there, continue along the 266 to Gardola. There you can enjoy a typical Italian meal in the La Miniera restaurant, where the breathtaking view is not even reflected in the price. The ambience isn't really necessary, as the menu alone is reason enough for me, as a hiking grouch, to regularly make the journey to Gardola.
...for the adrenalin
Campione - Pieve: in Campione, take the bridge over the small stream from the market square, then turn right onto hiking trail 267 up the funnel-shaped gorge of Campione, past a waterfall that invites you to cool off, an old waterworks, olive groves and through narrow tunnels. After 45 minutes, the path branches off to the right to Pieve, where the lemonsoda level can be brought back to normal in one of the famous restaurants with "shivering terraces". However, you should be free from giddiness as there is a 300 metre vertical drop from the terraces protruding above the rock. The 201 back to Campione via the old Gardesana, which has not been used for years and is slowly being reclaimed by nature, offers a varied route. Cooling down from there is possible at any time (see Cliff jumping ).
2. escape upwards
Lago di Tenno & Lago di Ledro: in side valleys above Riva and near Gargnano (Lago di Valvestino), there are mountain lakes that offer a little peace and quiet on days when Lake Garda is bursting at the seams and invite you to enjoy a SUP session. The lakes are characterised by water colours that otherwise only Photoshop can achieve.
3. cliff jumping
In Campione, behind the yacht club, take the old riverside road towards Pieve until you reach the desired height. Jumps from the bridge railing of three, five and 13 metres are possible.
4. mountain biking
The possibilities for biking are almost inexhaustible. The grandiose panoramic descent from the Passo Tremalzo at over 2000 metres is considered a classic. As the average windsurfer generally has an upper body of steel but very little leg fat, it is advisable to take the shuttle service from Riva or Torbole to the starting point. The same applies to the infamous 601 from Monte Altissimo from Nago to Torbole. However, the trail has it all. As an absolute bike novice, my forearms were burning at the bottom and it took a long time to replenish my completely depleted adrenaline reserves. You can find a great overview of the best bike trails in our sister magazine BIKE (search term: "Lake Garda").
5. wake up differently
At Porto di Tignale at the well-known north wind spot Al Pra, you can spend the night by car directly on the lake for a small parking fee. If you leave the tailgate open, you don't need to set an alarm clock, but will be kissed awake by the sun as soon as the "Vento" sets in, while you can still surf in the shade on the other side of the lake. A jump from the harbour wall into the water replaces the morning shower, and if you're still not awake, you can fortify yourself with a cappuccino and a brioche in the café around the corner before heading out onto the water. What better way to start the day?
6. fall asleep differently
When the sun slowly sets over the western shore after an extended ora session, you can catch the last rays of sunshine at the Panorama car park above Torbole amidst fragrant olive trees and spend the night for free - if you leave by 8 a.m. the next morning at the latest. If you want to sleep closer to the north wind spot of Malcesine, you should take one of the crossroads on the way to the valley station of the Monte Baldo cable car and follow it until you feel sufficiently out of the way in the shelter of the olive trees. A wonderfully cool and quiet place to sleep is guaranteed.
7. surf somewhere else
90 per cent of the afternoon windsurfing action on the lake takes place in front of Torbole and Riva. Admittedly, the car park situation speaks for itself. However, the Ora usually blows just that little bit stronger at the hotel pier. If you want to avoid the horrendous car park prices of the elite surf spot, either surf over from the climbing rock (Corno di Bo) on the opposite side of the lake or unload in the upper or lower Bay of Pigs and then look for parking spaces to the right and left of the road.
You can then return to the spot on foot, by bike or by hitchhiking. Where exactly the coveted free car parks and access points to the surf bays are located is unfortunately a matter of surfing secrecy. But if you really want to find them, you will. There is also good access to the water and space for around 20 cars in front of the Hotel Ponale in the tunnel between Limone and Riva. If you head up to the Bay of Pigs from there when the Ora sets in and follow the wind, which moves northwards at around three o'clock, you can make the most of the southerly wind.
Ora surfing, but not on the lake. Where can you find that? An alternative that very few Lake Garda surfers know about is the Lago di Cavedine, hidden away in a side valley on the right, around five kilometres behind Arco. The elongated lake, which is only a few hundred metres wide, is almost as well ventilated by the Ora river as its big brother Lake Garda. On the eastern side, which is only accessible via a narrow road, there is a small, cosy surf station - including a bar. Freestylers also train here from time to time - see YouTube.
8. surf somewhere completely different
When it cools down considerably in the evening after hot summer days in clear weather, a gusty but strong wind blows down the gorge of Campione as dusk falls. The "Vento de la Val" spreads across the bay in a fan shape, so that you have to ride a constant arc to surf half wind. Due to the fact that the wind blows offshore and in the evening or at night, appropriate safety precautions should be taken, such as headlamps and glow sticks, a warm wetsuit, life jacket and, ideally, a waterproof mobile phone. Especially in the moonlight, nothing stands in the way of a special experience.
9. climbing
The via ferrata in Arco is a great experience for all those who are not climbing at the level of the Huber brothers but are looking for a relaxed change from surfing. The start is right by the campsites in this charming little town, where you follow the path behind the chapel. It is best to leave the car in one of the car parks in Arco by the bridge and then walk for about five minutes in the direction of the campsites. A via ferrata set and a helmet are required. Guided tours can be booked at any time at the local climbing schools, which makes sense if you don't already have experience of belaying on a via ferrata. The passage takes around 1.5 hours uphill and you will be rewarded at the summit of Monte Colodri with a wonderful view over Arco and the northern part of Lake Garda.
The climbing garden in Nago is recommended for more ambitious sport climbers. 120 different routes will delight experienced climbers, but with difficulty levels between 4 and 9, there is also something for beginners. The climbing area is well frequented, so you may have to wait from time to time at the weekend. The area is also partly suitable for children. The routes are well secured and can be climbed for a very long time thanks to the favourable location.
10. cult bars
Yes, they still exist, the iconic bars that even young Italians dare to go to, while in Torbole's Windsbar you get a dirty look if you don't order your expensive beer in German. In Campione's market square, for example, Campari Orange and all other drinks come with a free snack plate that could almost be a meal. The Power Bar in Torbole next to the petrol station, where Robby Naish's brother Randy is one of the regulars and is happy to talk shop for a beer, is a little grungier but almost a piece of history. Not forgetting the Mecki Bar on the Sarca Bridge with its legendary Toast Speciale.
Spot info Lake Garda
Wind
With its steeply rising shores and location between the southern slopes of the Alps and the Po Valley, Lake Garda is a true wind machine that also functions relatively independently of the general weather conditions. The thermal winds, which are strengthened by the jet effect of the northern shores of the lake, reach gliding strength almost every day, even when summery high-pressure weather plunges Central Europe into a lull. Only localised thunderstorms or inversions can prevent the Ora (meaning "hour") from blowing from the south in the triangle of Hotel Pier, Torbole and Riva on a clear day with a wind force of 3-5.
The morning north wind also prefers it to be cloudless. This is because the more it cools down in the mountains at night, the stronger the Vento or Peler sets in at sunrise to delight all early risers for around three hours with wind forces of around 4-6. Extremely suspicious north wind symptoms are also foehn weather conditions or cold fronts approaching from the north. In the latter case, the Vento can therefore provide gliding conditions even when it is raining, especially if it is still clear in the south of the lake, while bad weather is already hanging over the northern part. The best chances of strong northerly winds are in late summer and autumn. Spring and early summer tend to favour the Ora. The short-lived Ponale thunderstorm wind, which blows from the west and can only be ridden at the Conca d'Oro in Torbole, is rare but strong.
Lake Garda Spots
The best Ora spots are at the northern end of the lake. At the Hotel Capo Reamol, the wind first reaches gliding wind strength, tends to blow strongest a few hundred metres further north at the Hotel Pier, but also leaves there early before moving on towards Riva and Torbole. There, choppy waves can form, but at the Conca d'Oro in Torbole it is often still planing until six o'clock in the evening, while at the pier, shade covers the spot from four o'clock and chases the wind away. You should avoid the doldrums triangle between Riva and Torbole, as the Ora weakens in the centre of the lake due to the windward surge of the nearby Monte Brione rock massif.
The best chances of a northerly wind are on the eastern shore between Navene and Malcesine. However, the spot at the bus car park with a view of Malcesine's castle is so full at weekends from as early as six o'clock that you can only find a parking space for your car when the Vento is already on its last legs. The north wind also works on the west bank between Hotel Pier and Al Pra - usually a little weaker, but at more humane times. Bad weather north winds can sometimes arrive well in Limone; if the wind blows strongly in the centre of the lake and doesn't reach the shore, you have a good chance in Toscolano on the quay wall. For spots such as Desenzano, Sirmione or Torri del Benaco to still get a northerly wind, the 3.7 in Malcesine must be well filled. Then, however, a wave builds up in the south of the lake that can really be described as such and allows jumps like at sea.
Campsites
As parking at the best Ora and Vento spots is usually associated with either a hectic battle for the limited pitches or elitist prices, it is worth choosing a campsite close to the spot. In Torbole and Riva in particular, there is a seamless succession of campsites with water access, such as Camping Bavaria and Camping Brione in Riva, Camping Al Cor, Camping Maroadi and Camping Europa in Torbole. It also makes sense to set up your base camp in Malcesine. This saves you the early morning car journey to the north wind, allows you to keep your wind sniff out of your tent for just a short time at sunrise and continue sleeping when the wind is calm. For the Ora, we recommend the spot on the Conca for Malcesine campers, where the journey is short and you don't have to fight your way through the usually heavy traffic of Torbole and Riva. Campsites with water access in Malcesine or Navene are Camping Claudia, Camping Alpino, Camping Tonini or Camping Martora or Camping Bellavista. Prices range from 6-10 euros for a tent pitch, 11-16 euros for a car pitch and around 8 euros as a daily flat rate for an adult, although the costs vary greatly depending on the season.
Parking
- North wind spots:At Al Pra, Malcesine and Campione, you have to pay around five euros each, and sanitary facilities are only available in conjunction with a coffee in one of the nearby bars.
- Hotel Pier:A hefty 12 euros are due for a parking space, plus an entrance fee of 10 euros per person, which goes back into your stomach as a food voucher. Surf station, restaurant, shower, toilets, carpets for setting up and one of the few non-stony entrances via a staircase are included.
- Conca d'Oro: The day ticket costs 10 euros, for which you get a rigging area, a nice bar, the fine Shaka surf centre as well as showers and toilets.
- Torbole lakeside promenade: You have to pay 1.50 euros per hour. It's cheaper if you unload there (guard your equipment!) and park your car for free in the Panorama car park.
Mandatory life jacket
A whopping 173 euro fine is due if you are caught on the water without a life jacket. At the spots south of the Trentino border, lifejackets are not normally compulsory. This applies to all spots south of Malcesine on the east bank and south of the Hotel Pier on the west bank. The Hotel Pier and the Bay of Pigs are in a grey area - there are practically no checks there, so if you want to be on the safe side, simply slip on the annoying accessory.
Surf centre
Probably nowhere else in the world is there such a high density of well-equipped windsurfing centres that rent out the latest equipment and offer courses for all levels.
Torbole
- Lido Blu
- Vasco Renna
- Shaka Surf Centre
- Surf Segnana
Riva
- Pier Windsurf
- Sailing du Lac
- Professional Windsurf & Sailing School
Malcesine
- Windsurfing Campagnola
- Stickl Sportcamp
- WWWind Square
- Nany's Aqua Centre
- Europe Surf & Sail
Lime
- Lino Windsurfing
- Capo Reamol wind centre
Brenzone
- Gardasurf
- Sirmione
- Claudio Lana
This article first appeared in surf 8/2014
