Friday, 4.30 pm: I’m standing at the till, watching as the cashier, clearly annoyed, scans the last few items. Now the third shopping trolley is full too, but that’s just how it is at the start of the holidays. We’re off to the Kattegat – the northernmost part of the Baltic Sea – with the sailing boat, the family, a few friends and, of course, our surfing gear. Because whilst the annual rush to Cold Hawaii reaches its peak during the holiday season, you can still find them here – the secluded, unspoilt spots of the Baltic Sea.
Endelave – an unknown island
Our plan is to make the most of the windless days at the start to sail as far north as possible from Kappeln along the Schlei estuary, and then wait for the next low-pressure system off Endelave. The crossing goes smoothly and is blessed with good weather. With the wind at our backs and a few sightings of porpoises, we make our way towards the Little Belt. So the debate about the mountains of surfing gear, which, as the skipper says, ‘are blocking the whole boat’, is soon forgotten. Twenty-four hours and one stop later, we sail into the harbour at Endelave. Endelave is a small island, relatively unspoilt, about seven kilometres long. It has a population of just under 150. We moor in the small harbour on the north-western side. There isn’t much going on here, but you’ll find a few holiday homes, a campsite and simple accommodation just a few hundred metres from the water. From the harbour, we set off on a walk around the island and a short fishing trip. After a few hours, we return to the harbour with smiles on our faces. In our landing net is a sea trout – which, in my opinion, is the best edible fish the Baltic Sea has to offer. Tomorrow’s menu looks delicious too: on the menu is a north-westerly wind of force five, which means: dinner, enjoying the sunset and off to bed.
Our skipper says the surfing gear is taking up all the space on the boat.
What could be better than waking up to the sound of the wind whistling round the masts of the boats?! The island offers shallow coastal areas with sandy seabeds, plenty of space to stand upright and even a grassy area for rigging up right by the harbour. Thanks to its exposed location, Endelave enjoys consistent winds from various directions. North-westerly to northerly winds create choppy ‘bump-and-jump’ conditions with small wind waves and small chop for jumping. So you can ride here in all wind directions, from westerly to easterly. However, the more easterly the wind blows, the more gusty it becomes; on the other hand, the water to the west of the harbour remains nice and smooth. The spot is particularly suitable for freeride, freestyle, beginners and classic strong-wind days on open water. To the west of the harbour lies a narrow, very gently sloping sandy beach with plenty of standing water for beginners. Thanks to the lack of development and the relaxed island atmosphere, everything here feels very laid-back and you’ll often find yourself alone on the water.
We’re making the most of the windy spells as best we can, as we know the coming days are likely to be rather light. For us, though, the calm weather also offers the chance to cruise leisurely northwards. We’re enjoying glorious weather and a few shore excursions through Denmark’s unspoilt countryside. Not to mention, of course, the ongoing mackerel season, which is proving a great success in terms of catches. Plenty of mackerel to keep everyone in good spirits. As is the weather forecast, which promises a new low-pressure system with north-westerly winds.
Arrival on Anholt
After a long night, we sail into the harbour at Anholt. Situated in the middle of the Kattegat between Sweden and Denmark, it’s rugged, hilly and remote. Anyone looking to take a trip off the beaten track should come here! The island is well known amongst sailors for its long sandy beaches, vast dune landscapes and crystal-clear water. Clustered around the small harbour are holiday homes, bars, an ice-cream parlour, a small supermarket and a few simple places to stay, which are particularly popular with holidaymakers in the summer. Here on the western beach, a real Caribbean atmosphere awaits us: a long, white sandy beach, turquoise water, plenty of bathers and a few boats. At the harbour, a fisherman is unloading his catch whilst we enjoy an ice cream at the ice-cream parlour and watch the gradually strengthening north wind as it whips up the first white caps on the Baltic Sea.
There isn’t quite enough wind for surfing yet, so we set off on a walk to the eastern tip of the island. The undulating heathland is magnificent. On the way, we come across a few walkers, lots of rabbits and a number of artistic wooden sculptures by the side of the path. Somewhat exhausted, we reach the destination we’d set ourselves: the lighthouse. But the steadily freshening wind doesn’t exactly encourage us to stay here any longer than is absolutely necessary. So, it’s a quick return to the harbour! Towards evening, I lug my surfing gear down to the north beach and enjoy a relaxed sunset wave session there, with an audience and a wonderful sunset. Right on Anholt’s North Beach is the so-called Orakel Bar. On clear summer evenings, lots of sailors gather here to enjoy the view of the sun sinking into the sea over a few drinks.
Windsurfing in the middle of the Baltic Sea
The following morning, too, the Baltic Sea is at its best. Overnight, waves have built up, rolling in an orderly fashion past the breakwater and over the sandbanks. Thanks to its isolated location, Anholt enjoys virtually uninterrupted wind from all directions. Particularly when the wind is from the west to the north, clean wind waves and perfect ramps for jumping form on the north and west beaches. When there’s a stronger easterly, surprisingly good ‘Bølger’ build up on the south side, running cleanly along the cliffs. Even on good days, there are only a few people on the water and it’s a brilliant feeling to be surfing in the middle of the Baltic Sea. However, it’s important to know your limits here, as the wrong wind direction can drive you out onto the open sea.
We manage to squeeze in two wave sessions before the wind shifts to the north and dies down. Off with the wave gear, on with the slalom sail, so we can do a few fast laps. Feeling pretty exhausted but incredibly happy, we head to the barbecue area in the evening, where another fantastic sunset awaits us. The next few days are looking a bit lacklustre, so we carry on heading north. Unfortunately, the southerly wind that picks up the following morning brings with it a few clouds and a bit of rain.
A wide variety of spots on Læsø
Nevertheless, we’re making good progress and, after a rainy crossing, are spending a few days on Læsø. Although this island is larger in area than Sylt, hardly anyone has heard of it. Not even the Danes themselves, because according to Wikipedia, Læsø is “the least densely populated municipality in Denmark”. Læsø offers endless sandy beaches, a flat landscape and a few houses covered in seaweed, whose roofs look as though they weigh tonnes. Of course, there are also the typical holiday homes and lovely campsites here, nestled against the dunes.
Læsø also gets a good mix of all wind directions, offering a wide variety of surfing opportunities. The best spots are a lagoon open to the north and the stretches of beach just west of Vesterø Havn. Here you’ll find everything from freeride to bump-and-jump conditions when the wind blows from the south-west to the north. Thanks to the shallow coastal areas, there are also large shallow zones that are ideal for less experienced surfers. Only on days with particularly strong winds do small waves build up here – more ruggedly Nordic than perfectly organised.
From flat water to waves: Final sessions in northern Funen
The days are passing, and slowly but surely we have to set off back south again. After several long days of sailing, we arrive in Korshavn, a small natural harbour in the north of Fyn. Korshavn and the small lagoon behind it at Fyns Hoved offer a surfing spot that couldn’t be better.
I spend almost the whole day in my wetsuit: first up is a training session with my younger siblings in Korshavn. Thanks to its sheltered location, the spot works particularly well in westerly to southerly winds. Then, on the flat water behind the breakwater, there’s hardly any chop, making the spot perfect for foiling, freeriding and freestyle. Further out, the water gets a bit choppier and offers small swells for jumping. Thanks to the smooth water and the protective headland, Korshavn is well suited to beginners even on windier days and is ideal for long sessions on the foil.
To round off the day, we also check out the nearby lagoon at Fyns Hoved, which lies amidst dunes, meadows and open countryside. There are only a few holiday homes in the vicinity and hardly any facilities; the lagoon itself is shallow, but not too shallow except on the northern side. There’s always enough water, particularly in the inner part, to paddle along at a leisurely pace with short fins. This makes the lagoon ideal for practising or for first attempts at paddling, as you can stand almost anywhere.
Small waves at Bøgebjerg Beach
The next day, the wind is blowing so strongly from the north that we head to Bøgebjerg Strand, a spot further south, where we enjoy a few small kickers. Proper wave conditions are actually quite rare here. But with a north to north-easterly wind, a somewhat disorganised swell can build up, which breaks into small, gently breaking waves on the gently sloping beach. There are mostly small, irregular wave sections here for short rides, as well as several offshore sandbanks. That’s exactly what makes the spot ideal for Beginners in wave riding It’s interesting because you can keep getting back on your feet and the waves aren’t very powerful.
Unfortunately, the wind dies down sooner than expected, and the next day we set off further south. A few days later, we moored in Kappeln again. After unloading tonnes of sand and surfing gear, the boat had a few more nicks and dents. But the images of a lovely sailing and surfing trip through the Kattegat remain in my mind – a region right on our doorstep, yet one that hardly anyone knows about.