Second-hand guide: How to find a good second-hand windsurf board
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The biggest mistake when buying a second-hand windsurf board? Buying a board that’s unsuitable for your intended use, just because it’s cheap at the moment! Because one thing’s for sure: a board that’s ten to 15 years old and suited to your riding style, ability, height and weight will always be more fun on the water than a brand-new board of the wrong class or size.
A ten-year-old board may be more suitable than the latest model from the wrong category.
That’s why we want to guide you through the usual process of finding the right board. We’ll start by asking which board class or size actually makes sense, and how you can tell which class a board belongs to based on its features. We’ll then show you how to carry out a quality check yourself – even as a complete beginner – and spot any hidden damage.
To round off, we’ll take a look at the current second-hand market for you and show you not only where you can find the widest selection of second-hand boards – but also what they currently cost (or should cost).
A class-based society: the different boards
For example, if you’re looking for a board with a volume of 115 litres, you can find everything from small slalom boards through to freeride, freemove and freestyle boards, right up to large wave boards. This means that, in extreme cases, you might end up buying a board that is completely unsuitable for your needs. Beginners and those moving up a level in particular keep falling into this trap, thinking: ‘I’m looking for a board to glide on and for my first power jibes.’ But the sales assistant is quite convinced by his 115-litre wave board and reckons ‘that this thing glides brilliantly and turns really easily.’ The price is right, the volume supposedly is too – and just like that, you’ve made a bad purchase.
From the seller’s point of view, there doesn’t even have to be any malice involved – it’s simply a matter of a completely different perspective and a lack of knowledge about what the prospective buyer is actually looking for. To ensure you’re fishing in the right pond from the outset, here’s a quick overview of all the forum groups and their characteristics
1. Longboard/WindSUP – the ‘Better Makers’
Target audience: Beginners and intermediate surfers, right through to those taking their first attempts at planing; light-wind windsurfers; families
The idea that longboards with a centreboard are only suitable for beginners is one of the biggest misconceptions in windsurfing! Even if you’ve already mastered planing, the typical wind conditions inland mean that you can only enjoy planing on a very irregular basis. In this respect, longboards are the way to go. They also give experienced windsurfers the chance to get out on the water (almost) whenever they like. Thanks to their length of 260 to 350 centimetres, they travel faster in displacement mode than any other board, achieve maximum height with the centreboard down, and can also be used for planing with the centreboard stowed. What’s more, they’re ideal for practising manoeuvres such as tacking, jibing and other tricks: the perfect foundation for surfing on funboards. The shapes of typical longboards have hardly changed in ages – ‘length matters’ was already true 20 years ago. For bargain hunters, this means that even a 20-year-old longboard is still up to date in terms of its shape and can be bought without hesitation, provided it’s still in good condition. The only thing to check is that the board has a standard mast track into which a modern mast base can be screwed. This isn’t the case with very old models, and a replacement mast base is then almost impossible to find.
One alternative is (inflatable) WindSUPs; they have similar dimensions to longboards and also offer the dual benefit of being suitable for both SUP and windsurfing. It’s worth noting that, in principle, any windsurf longboard is also suitable for SUP, but not every SUP can be used for windsurfing. For this to work, the SUP must have a threaded hole in the deck into which a mast base can be screwed. To reduce sideways drift, it should be possible to fit a centre fin. If this is not the case, there are also systems such as the Drift Stopper add-on or the Ezywing – Additional fins are simply strapped onto the board here using a tension strap.
2. Freeride boards – boards for the masses
Target group: From beginners to experienced freeriders. Ideally used in combination with camberless sails or sails with a maximum of two cams.
The most common type of board is the freeride board. For around 15 years, freeride boards have been between 230 and 250 centimetres in length and have a volume of between 100 and 170 litres. At the stern, there is usually a Powerbox fin measuring between 30 and 50 centimetres in length.
Thanks to their long glide surface, freeride boards are designed to get up to speed quickly, be easy to control and allow for relaxed gliding manoeuvres such as power jibes and duck jibes. This broad target audience is also reflected in the footstrap positions: on the one hand, freeride boards offer positions further out on the edge, allowing even experienced riders to really let rip. On the other hand, there are always footstrap plugs fitted well inwards and towards the front of the deck. These enable beginners to glide surfing in particular to cruise along at a relaxed pace and learn how to use the footstraps.
And what about the right size? For those new to windsurfing and anyone who still struggles to execute a power jibe consistently, extra volume helps. An extra 40 to 50 litres of volume compared to your own body weight is often very helpful, and this also makes a sheet-out start possible. Those who glide confidently in the footstraps and can generally pull off their manoeuvres can, of course, reduce the excess volume.
A look back: In the past, freeride boards were significantly longer and narrower than they are today. A look at the Surf Test archives reveals that, between 2005 and 2007, a trend towards significantly more compact dimensions and greater width became established. For those looking on the second-hand market, this means that a 2005 freeride board with a volume of 130 litres is not comparable to a newer model. For example: a popular freeride board such as the Fanatic Shark 129 measured 260 by 69 centimetres in 2005. By 2010, the comparable model had become a full 15 centimetres shorter and four to five centimetres wider. Since 2010, the changes in dimensions have been significantly smaller.
For those buying second-hand, this means that if the board was manufactured before 2006, it is usually significantly narrower and more unstable than newer models. This is particularly noticeable during manoeuvres; furthermore, due to their narrower tails, these boards do not glide as well through wind holes. So, if you’ve had your first experiences of planing and jibing on a modern 150-litre freeride board and then buy an old freeride board of the same volume, you’ll feel as though you’re surfing on a much smaller board. At least when it comes to planing, however, these long old-timers are still more than a match for their modern counterparts.
3. Freerace & slalom boards: the high-performance models
Target audience: Windsurfers who can glide confidently and use footstrap positions set far out; use in combination with camber sails; competition use; dual use for windsurfing and foiling
Freerace boards are also available in volumes ranging from 100 to 150 litres; their dimensions do not differ significantly from those of freeride boards – which is precisely why there is a risk of making the wrong purchase in some cases. Compared to freeride boards, freerace boards are sportier and designed more for top speed. This is achieved through a shorter planing surface, wider tails and a stance positioned further outwards. The stern often features a slim, straight fin, which is usually mounted in a Tuttle box with two screws through the deck. The internal footstrap plugs are often missing on this type of board – a major drawback for beginners to planing! Slalom boards take things a step further still – these are short, wide boards designed for the regatta course, which make sense for experienced riders and when used in combination with high-performance camber sails. When it comes to planing and jibing, however, these designs have only disadvantages compared to freeride boards.
Since the 2018 season, many freerace and slalom boards have offered the option of using them for foiling as well. It’s always important to check for the manufacturer’s official approval: stickers or prints on the box such as ‘foil ready’ or ‘approved for foiling’ indicate that the fin boxes have been reinforced. Whilst some foils can be fitted to older models, there is by no means any guarantee that the box will hold. A tip on size: for a board to be suitable for a first attempt at foiling, it must have as wide a tail as possible. For this reason, freerace boards are only suitable for foiling from a volume of around 125 litres upwards. The smaller the boards are, the more the ride becomes a wobbly affair. Dedicated foil boards, of course, perform significantly better in this respect.
4. Freemoveboards – the all-rounders
Target group: Experienced surfers who can glide confidently and perform a water start – and who want to cover everything from flat water to moderate surf and jumps on a single board. Combining this with wave or freemove sailing makes sense. Those who are still practising gliding and power jibes are better off on freeride boards.
Freemove boards are the alternative to freeride boards that are more geared towards manoeuvres. In comparison, freemove designs have narrower tails and a rounder bottom contour than freeride boards. As a result, they generally take a little longer to get planing and are less stable during manoeuvres, but they also offer better manoeuvrability. The distinction between freemove boards and freestyle-wave boards is fluid; boards with a volume of over 105 litres are often referred to as freemove boards, whilst those with a smaller volume are termed freestyle-wave boards.
Boards in these categories are therefore designed for a wide range of conditions: they should be suitable for planing and jibing on flat water, as well as the occasional outing in moderate surf or for attempting your first jumps and freestyle tricks. To make this possible, Freemove boards generally feature a strap position set well towards the centre, as well as a position shifted slightly outwards. This allows the boards to be used with either three or four straps. The fin setup is also designed to support manoeuvrability: these boards come with either more strongly curved single fins or even a thruster setup, consisting of a moderately long centre fin and two small side fins.
Freemove boards, too, have undergone a transformation in the past, moving towards slightly more compact and wider dimensions. However, this change was less dramatic and took place over a longer period, from 2010 to 2013. So if the board is more than ten years old, it is around ten centimetres longer than current models. The most striking difference is undoubtedly the fin setup. Before 2014, small Freemove and Freestyle waveboards always had just a single fin at the tail. Nowadays, the thruster setup with three fins has become standard – at least for small sizes under 100 litres – which offers surfers more options for tuning the board to different conditions, such as flat water or small surf.
5. Freestyle boards – spinning in fast motion
Target group: Specialised boards for jump and slide manoeuvres, for use in freestyle or wave sailing up to a maximum of 5.5 square metres. Anyone practising gliding manoeuvres should look to the freestyle wave category, as these boards glide better and maintain height, reach higher speeds and ride cleaner on the edge.
The freestyle discipline has developed rapidly – and as a result, the boards have been continually refined to suit the new manoeuvres. You might think there was a time when a new trick was invented almost every day. And just as unique as the manoeuvres – which have become increasingly unusual and radical over time – are the boards themselves. Sliding manoeuvres such as the Spock, Flaka and the like are certainly not dead and remain part of every tricker’s repertoire, but there was a decisive turning point in the discipline’s development – namely, when riders started going higher into the air: 360s were no longer slid through the water using extremely short fins, but rotated entirely in the air. Sails were ducked and loaded in order to catapult the rider as high as possible out of flat water. As a result, the volume shifted towards the centre of the board, and the shapes became significantly shorter and more compact all at once.
Those who have never heard of so-called ‘power moves’ such as the Kono, Burner or sail duck, and have no intention of practising manoeuvres of this kind in future, can confidently go for freestyle boards manufactured in 2010 or earlier. Classic freestyle tricks, from the carving 360 to the Spock, Flaka and your first attempts at Switch moves They work a treat with the longer ‘oldies’. Thanks to their longer fins, the longer freestyler boards are actually easier to ride in a straight line than the very modern shapes. On the other hand, if you’re starting to duck the sail and have your sights set on power moves, a modern shape under 225 centimetres in length gives you a clear advantage – and you’ll find it easier to learn the radical manoeuvres that mainly involve rotating in the air.
6. Waveboards – Kauli’s Children
Target group: Primarily for use in surf conditions, for jumps and wave riding. Designed for use with wave sails. If you spend more days in flat water or chop than in the surf, you should take a look at freestyle waveboards, as these generally glide better and offer greater control.
Waveboards are made for surf – and by that we don’t mean a high swell on Lake Garda in strong winds or the chop on the IJsselmeer. As soon as it comes to stringing together turns whilst standing in both straps, you benefit from the comparatively narrow tails and the rounded bottom curves of waveboards. When it comes to foot straps, there’s only one option here – set well inwards. Waveboards have undergone a major transformation in the past. Riders such as Kauli Seadi, who won three World Championship titles in wave riding between 2005 and 2008 and influenced board design, played a key role in this. Instead of long, narrow single-fin boards, Kauli used compact shapes such as twins (2), thrusters (3) or quads (4).
After a slight delay, this trend eventually caught on across all brands. Looking back, it’s fair to say that everything before 2008 was narrow and long. Back then, an 85-kilo surfer would choose a 75- to 80-litre board as an all-round solution to be able to turn reasonably well. In 2008, the first boards became wider, but still had single fins; from 2009 onwards, the trend towards greater width, more volume and a multi-fin setup became widespread. This was possible because the multi-fin setup also significantly improved turning performance. So it was now possible to ride wider boards with more volume that still turned well. It stands to reason that the extra width and volume offer noticeable advantages when bobbing about, cutting across waves and gliding onto them. Today, the rule of thumb is: volume equal to body weight provides the widest range of use.
7. Foilboards – give you wings
Since 2017, windsurfers have been taking to the air – at least on a widespread basis. Since then, the industry has been offering specialised boards for foiling. These are significantly shorter than windsurf boards of the same volume, but have a wider tail. As a general rule, the wider the tail, the easier it is to control the foil and the more stable the rides. This is also the reason why windsurf boards in the freeride or freerace categories are only suitable for foiling with certain limitations. However, it’s also true that foil boards, conversely, are specifically designed for foiling; they usually don’t work at all with a fin.
Anyone looking to buy a second-hand foilboard should ideally do so together with a compatible foil. If you mix and match different brands of foil and board, there is a risk that the components will not work well together. This applies particularly to foilboards with a Tuttle box – where the foil position is fixed. Boards fitted with a double rail are less problematic. The foil position can be adjusted on these, making it easier to match components from different brands.
And as for size: beginners to foiling should allow for 30 to 50 litres of excess volume and choose a design that isn’t extremely short (> 200 centimetres) – this guarantees effortless take-off and lift-off. Those who can actively inflate the board and are primarily aiming to perform manoeuvres or jumps may also consider a model under two metres in length.
Check the condition of the second-hand board
Regardless of which board class you opt for, there are flaws you should be aware of. If you can inspect the board in person, you should do so. If the board is on the other side of the country, you have no choice but to trust the seller and ask a few specific questions about its condition. Pay particular attention to:
Soft spots in the deck
Freestyle and wave boards, in particular, can suffer damage to the areas around the footpads and the mast track as a result of hard, flat landings. Place the board on the floor and press down with both thumbs on the areas around the mast track and footpads. If everything feels firm, that’s a good sign. If the deck visibly springs back, the laminate has probably already separated from the core in these areas. If damage like this isn’t repaired promptly and professionally, the deck laminate will eventually tear and the board will take on water. You can buy boards like this at a reasonable price, but depending on the extent of the repairs, you should allow for additional costs of between 150 and 250 euros.
Cracks & holes
Minor cracks and holes need not be a deal-breaker, provided they have been repaired reasonably well. The only important thing is that the board has not taken on water as a result of being used whilst damaged. If, for example, minor damage to the tail, nose or edges has been repaired, you can buy the board without any problems.
However, cracks that have appeared in the area of the standing surface, beneath the footpads or around the mast track are a cause for concern. Particularly with wave and freestyle boards, these are often signs of excessive stress caused by hard landings. On freeride boards, cracks are often hidden beneath foam nose protectors that have been stuck on. Here, too, you should check the nose area by applying firm pressure. If rigid protectors made of carbon or fibreglass have been stuck on, however, there is rarely any cause for concern.
Irregular paint finishes
If the varnish on a board looks uneven, this may be a sign that it has been repaired in the past. If the seller is upfront about this and points it out, it needn’t be a deal-breaker at all. If damage has been professionally repaired, this needn’t affect the board’s durability. However, if a board is advertised as undamaged, irregularities in the paintwork may suggest that previous damage is being concealed. In that case, you should be able to negotiate the price down a little. You should inspect the areas around the bow and along the edges particularly carefully.
Worn-out loop plugs
Before buying second-hand, you should also enquire about the condition of the loop plugs. It is almost impossible to tell their condition just by looking – you should definitely ask the seller. Background: Self-tapping screws are screwed into the plastic loop plugs. If a loop is screwed in tightly, the plug will often last for ages. If the loops are frequently re-screwed or tightened excessively, the plastic will eventually crumble – and the plug will no longer be usable. Normally, there are other plugs available that you can use instead. Tip: Before going to the trouble of having worn-out plugs replaced by a repairer, it’s worth trying to fix the problem with threaded pins first.
Boxes & Mast Track
The areas around the fin boxes and the mast track are subject to greater stress, particularly on freeride, slalom and foil boards. Cracks in the area of the box are a deal-breaker, as repairs are quite labour-intensive and therefore expensive. Anyone wishing to use their second-hand board for foiling should also ensure that the fin box is ‘foil-approved’, i.e. expressly authorised for foiling. Generally speaking, when buying second-hand, you should always ask for the original fin; this is usually included with the board. Exceptions are slalom boards, which are generally sold without a fin.
Stand varnish
Many older boards are slippery. To check this, simply feel the board in the standing area between the footstraps and the mast track – and compare the texture with that in the bow area, for example. However, even a novice can quickly touch up the deck varnish; with an investment of 30 to 40 euros, it’s relatively inexpensive to do.
This is how much a second-hand windsurf board should cost
So what exactly do you pay for boards of different ages? We’ve done some research. However, given the wide variation in the condition of the boards on offer and the different construction methods, we can only provide price ranges.
Previous year's models
With every new model release, the latest boards also flood the second-hand market – often from team riders, semi-pros or people with links to the windsurfing industry. As a rough guide: you’ll pay about half the regular retail price for an undamaged model from the previous year. A freerider in the budget range can sometimes be found for as little as 700 euros, whilst a current waveboard changes hands for between 1,300 and 1,400 euros.
Best Ager
Boards in their prime are two to four years old – at least when it comes to value for money. Some of the shapes are still absolutely up to date, yet you often pay only between 30 and 50 per cent of the original price. Fancy an example? A 2019 Fanatic Stubby waveboard sells for 800 euros. A Tabou Twister Freestyler from the same year costs 750 euros. And how about a Fanatic Gecko HRS freeride board or the Patrik F-Race freeracer for 1,200 euros?
Oldies
From the age of five years onwards, the variations become increasingly significant. Generally speaking, when dealing with boards aged between five and 15 years, you should not use the board’s age as the basis for price negotiations, but rather focus primarily on its condition. Background: A ten-year-old freeride board can be in top condition if it has been well looked after and has spent years stored in a warm cellar. A price of 800 euros might then be reasonable. Conversely, a three-year-old model might be completely worn out if it’s been battered for months on the rough slopes of the world – in which case, 400 euros might already be too much.
And once you’ve finally found what you’re looking for, there’s still the question of delivery. Here’s a guide listing all the providers.
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Manuel Vogel
Editor surf